IH350U Independent PTO removal

[Mtjohnso]

I just drained the independent PTO and a little bit of water and some thick black goo came out. The PTO runs continuously whenever the tractor is running regardless of the position of the control arm. That could be a problem with adjustments on the bands.
I want to pull it apart and check the internals.
The manual was not clear on removing the PTO.
I assume I just remove a few bolts from the back of the PTO and pull it off.
Anything to be aware of or concerned about?

 

[Janicholson]

I just drained the independent PTO and a little bit of water and some thick black goo came out. The PTO runs continuously whenever the tractor is running regardless of the position of the control arm. That could be a problem with adjustments on the bands.
I want to pull it apart and check the internals.
The manual was not clear on removing the PTO.
I assume I just remove a few bolts from the back of the PTO and pull it off.
Anything to be aware of or concerned about?

Look at the length of the bolts when taking it apart, short bolts do not remove the unit. Be aware that it is heavy. A floor crane, or good floor jack is best. use a 4 foot pipe on the PTO shaft to hold up the shaft when removing or replacing the unit. Take images as you go!!!! Use long bolts with cutoff heads to slide it back in place (with the pipe)
This is my adjustment process:
Re: 350 Farmall PTO will not shut off in reply to Janicholson, 10-18-2011 14:00:06
The linkage on well used PTOs on the utility series become dysfunctional after years of use.
Two suggestions:
Make very sure there is no lost motion in the hand lever pivot and rod mechanism. Be certain the hand lever moves the PTO lever from the middle both ways.
Adjust it like this, after there is no play in links.
Move the lever exactly half way between the locked on position and locked off position (little flipper catch on lever.
Take off the little dome metal cover from the adjust screws.
Loosen the jamb nut, and tighten the front (away from you) screw until it is just a bit tighter than the point at which it begins to feel tighter as it is screwed in (maybe a eighth turn) then back it off until the PTO shaft will turn with least drag (about 3/4 turn out) and tighten the lock nut while holding the adjuster.
Do the same for the closer adjuster.
If the screws go into the jamb nuts and get flush with the top surface of the nut, the bands are probably worn out, and may be operational for a while, but plan on a rebuild.
Now (tractor off) push the the lever down toward the brake footplate. As it goes down, it should get harder to push when it is about 4" (or so) away from fully OFF. and be noticeably harder to push for the last inch, but not real hard. (this is the brake band tightening on the drum in the PTO unit.
Then pull it up and do the same feel.
The ON position should feel the same way.
The shaft should turn pretty free when the lever is half way, and not at all when in either ON, or OFF. (tractor shut off)
If it slips now, it needs a rebuild. Jim

 

[Mtjohnso]

Thank you for the suggestions and guidance.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Thank you for the suggestions and guidance.

If and when you decide to pull the unit, drain the oil from the rear end, or park the tractor facing down a steep hill. Otherwise you will have an EPA disaster on your hands, as several gallons of oil will come out when you remove the PTO unit.

 

[Ellis Kinney]

There will be a leather seal between the PTO unit and the rear end. That should probably be replaced while you have it out. I just did a Super MTA. I run 90 wt. in the rear end and 10 wt. in the PTO unit so I used two seals, one pointed in each direction to keep the fluids from mixing. The O ring will be square instead of round and should be OK if you are careful. I used all thread rod to install the unit, tightening up slowly until mounted and then switch bolts. It is very heavy and I used an overhead crane. Hope this helps. Ellis