JD 50 rear wheel adjustment problem

chas036

Member
I am trying to adjust my rear wheel on my 50 and removed the three regular bolts. I then jacked up the wheel and hit the end of the axle with a 20 ib sledge hammer 4 o 5 times like I saw on Youtube and then I started to turn the pusher bolts. The left pusher bolt started to turn and I hard that clicking sound when bolts are tight. Then I tried the other pusher bolt and it would not turn, so I hit with a hammer a few time to maybe jar it loose. Finally I put a pipe on the wrench to get some more leverage, and I broke the bolt. I tightened the other pusher a half a turn or more but I stopped for fear of breaking that off too. I saw no noticeable movement of the wedge

If the pusher bolts don't work or are broken off, , what is my next solution to loosen and remove that wedge?

Would loosening or removing the inside bolts on the other wedge help?

The wheel is already at the end of the axle so I can't put a metal tube over the axle to bang on the wedges like I have seen on youtube.
 

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I am trying to adjust my rear wheel on my 50 and removed the three regular bolts. I then jacked up the wheel and hit the end of the axle with a 20 ib sledge hammer 4 o 5 times like I saw on Youtube and then I started to turn the pusher bolts. The left pusher bolt started to turn and I hard that clicking sound when bolts are tight. Then I tried the other pusher bolt and it would not turn, so I hit with a hammer a few time to maybe jar it loose. Finally I put a pipe on the wrench to get some more leverage, and I broke the bolt. I tightened the other pusher a half a turn or more but I stopped for fear of breaking that off too. I saw no noticeable movement of the wedge

If the pusher bolts don't work or are broken off, , what is my next solution to loosen and remove that wedge?

Would loosening or removing the inside bolts on the other wedge help?

The wheel is already at the end of the axle so I can't put a metal tube over the axle to bang on the wedges like I have seen on youtube.
Remove the 3 bolts on the inside and remove the wedge that isn't the part of the adjuster.
 
Remove the 3 bolts on the inside and remove the wedge that isn't the part of the adjuster.
How do I remove that non adjuster wedge if one of the pusher bolts are broken off ? How do I loosen it enough to remove it without both pusher bolts?
 
You won't need the pusher bolts for the other wedge. Use a large punch and a 3 lb. hammer and knock it out.
 
You won't need the pusher bolts for the other wedge. Use a large punch and a 3 lb. hammer and knock it out.
I removed the bolts on the inside oc the wheel from the adjuster wedge and pounded the outer edge with a 5 lb for an hammer for an hour without any luck. the wedge with the pusher bolts looks like it moved 1/8 of an inch, but nothing more. I removed the one pusher bolts and put a large bolt in that hole up against the wedge but not in the threads, and I hit it several time with 10 lb sledge without any luck. I don't know what else to try. I have been soaking the wedges every night with PB Blaster and today applied some heat , and still without any luck.
 
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a picture might help of the tractor side of the situation my A it showed up collets backwards all the way out and the bolts I actually had to remove were on the inside. Im not as familiar with the slightly newer ones if you can see a casting number id consider finding wedges if they are available and using the oxygen lever on the fire wrench but that's certainly after probably attempting another struggle session or 2 at it.

Will a tube fit over that axle if you supported it somehow?
 
I must've been lucky a few years ago, having only to back off the three pull bolts and remove/lube/install the pushers to crack the wedge free. This was another one that had been adjusted wide and wasn't going to fit on a normal trailer for transporting.

Deere 1953 Model 50 RH.jpg
 
With wedge retaining bolts loosened then hit end of axle several times with a sledge hammer. Now drive tractor alternately pressing brake pedals. If wedges still haven't come loose get a pipe that fits over axle with a section cut out 1/2 way to match 1 wedge then cut pipe length to a little longer than protruding axle. Weld a plate on the end of the pipe then hit welded plate with a sledge hammer.
 
With wedge retaining bolts loosened then hit end of axle several times with a sledge hammer. Now drive tractor alternately pressing brake pedals. If wedges still haven't come loose get a pipe that fits over axle with a section cut out 1/2 way to match 1 wedge then cut pipe length to a little longer than protruding axle. Weld a plate on the end of the pipe then hit welded plate with a sledge hammer.
This method sound great but the problem I have is that my wheel is already at the end of the axle and there is only about an inch of axle protruding, so I have no support to put an pipe over the axle.
 
This method sound great but the problem I have is that my wheel is already at the end of the axle and there is only about an inch of axle protruding, so I have no support to put an pipe over the axle.
NO PROBLEM! Just ask your wife or girlfriend which ever applies to hit the pipe with sledge hammer while you hold pipe!!!!!!!!!!;) Or VICE-VERSA:p
 
I am trying to adjust my rear wheel on my 50 and removed the three regular bolts. I then jacked up the wheel and hit the end of the axle with a 20 ib sledge hammer 4 o 5 times like I saw on Youtube and then I started to turn the pusher bolts. The left pusher bolt started to turn and I hard that clicking sound when bolts are tight. Then I tried the other pusher bolt and it would not turn, so I hit with a hammer a few time to maybe jar it loose. Finally I put a pipe on the wrench to get some more leverage, and I broke the bolt. I tightened the other pusher a half a turn or more but I stopped for fear of breaking that off too. I saw no noticeable movement of the wedge

If the pusher bolts don't work or are broken off, , what is my next solution to loosen and remove that wedge?

Would loosening or removing the inside bolts on the other wedge help?

The wheel is already at the end of the axle so I can't put a metal tube over the axle to bang on the wedges like I have seen on youtube.
I removed all the bolts fron both wedges and I spent all day yesterday soaking the wedges with PB BLaster , using heat , and hitting the edge of the lower wedge with a 10 lb sledge hammer . I rigged up a method to hold a bolt again the edge of the lower wedge so I could strike it sith full force with the hammer, and still no movement. Since I started , the lower wedge has only moved about 3/16". The upper wedge has not moved one bit.

I put a wrnech on the adjuster bolt used to move the wheel, and that bolt is totaly rusted solid. I removed the cork and filled the hole with PB Blaster hoping to free that mechanisum up a little.

I don't know what else to try. When I get the power steering adjusted and working again, I will just take it out a drive it and see what happens.
 
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