My brother asked me to look at his JD 2040 (SN 407877) (no independent hydraulics, closed center hydraulics) because it lost power steering and the lift arms will not raise. He said he pulled the hydraulic oil filter and it was collapsed, so he replaced the hydraulic filter, then replaced all the hydraulic fluid. I told him to clean the hydraulic screen and the filter bypass valve also. So, he drained the hydraulic oil again, and checked the screen and bypass filter. The screen was clogged and the filter bypass valve was frozen. The screen is now clean and the bypass valve is moving freely.
I put his tractor on my trailer and brought it to my large garage so that I could easily work on it in the comfort of a heated garage. I drained the hydraulic oil (again) and checked the screen and bypass valve. Both were clean and working. I pulled the hydraulic filter housing and noticed that it looked like there was no hydraulic oil going into the filter since my brother had installed another filter. Using a bright light, I noticed some hydraulic gunk in the bottom of the transmission case, so I got a long wire with a paper towel wrapped tightly to the end of the wire and swabbed out the bottom of the transmission case. There was some gunk, but it really was not bad.
Using a large rubber stopper with a 1/4" nylon hose inserted into the rubber stopper, I then blew high pressure air up into the side hydraulic drain plug port (where the screen is located). I could feel air coming from the port hole of the hydraulic filter. I then blew air backwards from the port hole of the hydraulic filter into the (rear) hydraulic pump outlet and could feel air coming out the hydraulic drain port. I also blew air into the hydraulic fill port (in the rear of the rock shaft cover) and could feel air coming out of both the drain port and out of the (rear) hydraulic pump outlet. (The hydraulic pump "outlet" is built into the transmission case right at the hydraulic filter.) (See pictures). I used a very fine paint filter to refill the (essentially new) hydraulic oil and then cranked the tractor. Still no hydraulic oil flowing to the hydraulic filter.
I then pulled the rock shaft cover to see if there was anything obvious in the transmission case before I split the tractor to check the rear hydraulic pump.
I found that one oil line (#6) appears to have a crack in it (see close up picture) however, this oil line is not pressurized and (apparently) only gets hydraulic fluid dripped into it from the "collar shift" oil cup (#1). I filled this oil cup and did not see any fluid dripping from the cracked line. I'll braze this line, but only after determining why the hydraulic filter is not filling up.
One more thing unusual, the hydraulic oil dip stick indicates full, however, when I drained it, there was only about 4..1 gallons. The manual says 7.4 gallons. (This tractor does not have external hydraulics or a FEL.)
Anyone got any suggestions as to why the hydraulic oil filter is not getting oil. I am not someone who randomly replaces the rear hydraulic pump unless I can prove that it is bad. It is clearly not sucking oil into the input of the rear pump. Next step if slit the tractor and check the rear hydraulic pump.
I put his tractor on my trailer and brought it to my large garage so that I could easily work on it in the comfort of a heated garage. I drained the hydraulic oil (again) and checked the screen and bypass valve. Both were clean and working. I pulled the hydraulic filter housing and noticed that it looked like there was no hydraulic oil going into the filter since my brother had installed another filter. Using a bright light, I noticed some hydraulic gunk in the bottom of the transmission case, so I got a long wire with a paper towel wrapped tightly to the end of the wire and swabbed out the bottom of the transmission case. There was some gunk, but it really was not bad.
Using a large rubber stopper with a 1/4" nylon hose inserted into the rubber stopper, I then blew high pressure air up into the side hydraulic drain plug port (where the screen is located). I could feel air coming from the port hole of the hydraulic filter. I then blew air backwards from the port hole of the hydraulic filter into the (rear) hydraulic pump outlet and could feel air coming out the hydraulic drain port. I also blew air into the hydraulic fill port (in the rear of the rock shaft cover) and could feel air coming out of both the drain port and out of the (rear) hydraulic pump outlet. (The hydraulic pump "outlet" is built into the transmission case right at the hydraulic filter.) (See pictures). I used a very fine paint filter to refill the (essentially new) hydraulic oil and then cranked the tractor. Still no hydraulic oil flowing to the hydraulic filter.
I then pulled the rock shaft cover to see if there was anything obvious in the transmission case before I split the tractor to check the rear hydraulic pump.
I found that one oil line (#6) appears to have a crack in it (see close up picture) however, this oil line is not pressurized and (apparently) only gets hydraulic fluid dripped into it from the "collar shift" oil cup (#1). I filled this oil cup and did not see any fluid dripping from the cracked line. I'll braze this line, but only after determining why the hydraulic filter is not filling up.
One more thing unusual, the hydraulic oil dip stick indicates full, however, when I drained it, there was only about 4..1 gallons. The manual says 7.4 gallons. (This tractor does not have external hydraulics or a FEL.)
Anyone got any suggestions as to why the hydraulic oil filter is not getting oil. I am not someone who randomly replaces the rear hydraulic pump unless I can prove that it is bad. It is clearly not sucking oil into the input of the rear pump. Next step if slit the tractor and check the rear hydraulic pump.