Jubilee won't go into gear (when running) after removing shifter cover to change starter button

maybe clutch in backwards or wrong throw out bearing?
I had the throw out bearing that came with the clutch but I also bought an American made TO bearing to use instead (because I like USA made) and they looked the same and cross referenced. I have no idea why so much free play but I suspect a stack up of worn everything and the clutch fingers.
 
In a post you said the pedal stopped before it hit the floor board ?. The reason I brought this up was for test purpose only. It’s your call to mask an issue as something is not right. I am not a believer in clutch pedal free play adjustment the true test is the amount of free play at the clutch leaver. That was the original reason for the pix I posted. Pedal free play comes in when the pedal has a upper travel stop you don’t have that. Pedal free play is a generic answer that’s correct most of the time but not always.
 
Things to ponder, we assume the clutch is not releasing.

  • The floorboard is the cultch pedal stop. Why does he pedal stop before it reaches the floorboard.
  • All linkage is suspect and the pins that retain the linkage to the shafts
  • Ford does have a clutch finger height spec I think is 2”. It should have been checked I made a tool to do it, it can be checked with standard tools. It’s checked with the transmission removed.
  • Ford uses a spacer plate between the engine and transmission not all are the same the thickness varies depending on the transmission used. I don’t know if a NAA used a spacer plate did you use your original parts other than the engine and clutch assy on the engine swap.
If you are confident all clutch mechanical control parts are healthy we can only assume the clutch has a mechanical fraught. It could be a seized pilot bearing are an oiled down clutch the clutch would have to come out to check it. The only way I know to get a better visual is to remove the steering box.

This is a straight forward visual system other than we cannot see the work being commanded at the clutch release fork the final command. I approach this as the clutch pedal being the master and all other parts as the slave, the slave will not do more work than master commands. This applies more to a fixed system with no adjustment but still applies.

The adjustment provision. On a fixed system the master can only command but so much work the slave is a fixed system. You can shorten the chain are lengthen the chain but the chain will only do the work the master commands. On a system with an adjustment all you can do is ask the slave to move closer are farther away from the final work asked the movement of the final work will always be the same its fixed.

The master moves 5/6” at the end of the chain all you will ever get is 3/8” of work movement. The only way you will ever get the slave to do more work is for the master to command more work. That’s why I asked you to remove the floorboard.

In a post you said the pedal stopped before it hit the floor board ?. The reason I brought this up was for test purpose only. It’s your call to mask an issue as something is not right. I am not a believer in clutch pedal free play adjustment the true test is the amount of free play at the clutch leaver. That was the original reason for the pix I posted. Pedal free play comes in when the pedal has a upper travel stop you don’t have that. Pedal free play is a generic answer that’s correct most of the time but not always.
I'm not usually a 'mask the problem' kind of guy.

When I installed the clutch I worked the pedal and watched how far the TO bearing slid on its' shaft. It really couldn't go any further, - it looked like it travelled the full amount but just maybe not enough to move the fingers enough once reassembled. So I kind of want to blame the new clutch itself (fingers) because it's actually the only thing that really changed in the whole set up which had a working clutch for a long time. I'm skeptical of it being anything to do with the new engine. I used the engine/trans spacer from my old engine. When I split again I'll be prepared to measure the clutch fingers like you mentioned.
 
I'm not usually a 'mask the problem' kind of guy.

When I installed the clutch I worked the pedal and watched how far the TO bearing slid on its' shaft. It really couldn't go any further, - it looked like it travelled the full amount but just maybe not enough to move the fingers enough once reassembled. So I kind of want to blame the new clutch itself (fingers) because it's actually the only thing that really changed in the whole set up which had a working clutch for a long time. I'm skeptical of it being anything to do with the new engine. I used the engine/trans spacer from my old engine. When I split again I'll be prepared to measure the clutch fingers like you mentioned.
Link with pix of clutch adjustment gauge.


All of what you said is great what you do not understand once the TO applies to the fingers when set up correctly you will only have 3/8” movement to release the clutch. It only takes .050 clearances at the clutch disc to pressure plate to fully release.

You can test this before you assemble the clutch on the tractor to ensure the clutch is set up correctly. Take the flywheel off assemble the clutch to the flywheel and gauge/test it. You can do this on the tractor but you will have no way to gauge what movement it takes to release the disc.

You can also jury rig away to check finger height use a level and a ruler and do the math. I have put more clutches in than the average bear and been bit a many a time. Clutch specifications are Top secret for some reason. About the only way to get technical is call a LuK help line they have the lowdown on most of it all.

Sometimes there are no silver bullets you just keep digging. You may have to disassemble it multiple times just keep reasoning you will find the answer. I don’t want to break your heart but in this process you learn to test the clutch before to bolt it all up.

Bring the tractor back together install a few bolts adjust the clutch (with the floorboard mounted) and check how free the PTO spins are the engine by hand transmission in gear.
 
Link with pix of clutch adjustment gauge.


All of what you said is great what you do not understand once the TO applies to the fingers when set up correctly you will only have 3/8” movement to release the clutch. It only takes .050 clearances at the clutch disc to pressure plate to fully release.

You can test this before you assemble the clutch on the tractor to ensure the clutch is set up correctly. Take the flywheel off assemble the clutch to the flywheel and gauge/test it. You can do this on the tractor but you will have no way to gauge what movement it takes to release the disc.

You can also jury rig away to check finger height use a level and a ruler and do the math. I have put more clutches in than the average bear and been bit a many a time. Clutch specifications are Top secret for some reason. About the only way to get technical is call a LuK help line they have the lowdown on most of it all.

Sometimes there are no silver bullets you just keep digging. You may have to disassemble it multiple times just keep reasoning you will find the answer. I don’t want to break your heart but in this process you learn to test the clutch before to bolt it all up.

Bring the tractor back together install a few bolts adjust the clutch (with the floorboard mounted) and check how free the PTO spins are the engine by hand transmission in gear.
Gotcha. Understood. I am now well armed with knowledge when I go to split. I put a flared splice connection in the oil pressure gauge tube and the headlight wire where the tractor splits to facilitate the next split, so that will make it a little easier. Thanks again!
 

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