LUCAS CAV DPS help needed - any Lucas pump gurus out there? same as Ford 6610/7610/755 ??

30dodgeboy

New User
Need some help with a Lucas CAV pump, DPS model 8523A110A (97HP). It's on a 268T engine (also called BSD444T). I think this engine and pump is also used in Ford 7610/7710 trackors and 755 backhoes.

This engine is in a piece of forestry equipment that was recently purchased not running condition. Engine had a blown head gasket (poor workmanship issue) and a spun rod bearing on #2. I overhauled the engine but now that it is running its power is low. When adding load, the engine sounds as if the throttle was reduced, and there is no smoke or haze out the exhaust. I checked the timing (used my MAC pulse timing adapter) and advanced it from where it was at (12) to 18 degrees BTDC, but that made no difference. I want to say it needs more fuel. I have confirmed that the fuel is fresh, there is good flow from the electric lift pump, replaced both fuel filters, and confirmed it has a constant stream of fuel return flow back to the tank. Again, no difference - the engine runs smoothly, but is certainly down on power.

After researching Lucas CAV pumps, I checked the cylindrical screen within the pump at its back end near the vane pump, and all is well there with the screen and the regulating piston and springs. Under the rear cover, the pump vanes and cam ring look new. I saw 'DELPHI' on the cam ring making me think that this pump was replaced and is newer than the 1995-ish engine.

Removing the top cover from the pump I can see that it is very clean inside there as well, suggesting the pump is fresh. Even the top gasket looks new (no staining on outside edges). All looks well with the governor spring up top.

Whomever was working on this machine before had done a LOT of horrible work, and I wouldn't be surprised if the fuel line connections on the pump were somehow messed up. The fuel supply from the filters connects to the back of the pump near the injector line connections, and is also teed to a second connection at the top cover. There is also a connection on the top cover to supply fuel up to the intake manifold flame heater, but that is not operational yet on this machine. The return line is at the front end of the top cover and has a ball-spring regulator to hold some pressure in the pump - much like the overflow valve used with Bosch inline pumps. I followed that passage through the top cover to a drilled passage in the pump body near the drive end. It seems as if this arrangement (no return connection at the top cover)would trap air in the top housing, unless the flame heater gets used a bunch, but then again I think the fuel going to the injectors and timing advance mechanism all comes from the connection at the back of the pump. Earlier pumps had no connections to the top cover, so maybe I'm just overthinking it?

Can anyone supply a few pics of correct fuel line connections?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Wondering if Woodruff key got knocked out of input shaft if the pump was removed.
Timing was at 18 degrees. The woodruff key is intact - I saw that when I pulled the pump off to inspect it closely (yesterday). Thanks for trying to help, but that isn't the issue here.
 
The rear vane pump has a LINER, it's NOT the cam ring. That pump has the cam ring/scroll plates in the center of the pump. I'm wondering if the top cover is on correctly IF it was removed. There's a good chance the cam/scroll plates are not working correctly IF the top cover is installed wrong. My spec card shows this pump is used on 7610, 7710, and 755.
 
The rear vane pump has a LINER, it's NOT the cam ring. That pump has the cam ring/scroll plates in the center of the pump. I'm wondering if the top cover is on correctly IF it was removed. There's a good chance the cam/scroll plates are not working correctly IF the top cover is installed wrong. My spec card shows this pump is used on 7610, 7710, and 755.
Yes, I recall it being called a liner in the Lucas info I read. I mistakenly called it a cam ring because its bore is eccentric. I do understand that it is not THE cam ring that moves the two rollers to pump high-pressure fuel, and it is instead for the vane transfer pump that creates intermediate pressure.

I think the top cover is installed correctly, as it only goes on one way?? What specifically could be installed wrong?
 
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Inlet near the injection lines is correct, all others are outlets. The side cover piston needs pushed IN before the cover goes down on the gasket or the scroll plates won't work right.
Thanks for the reply.

What would be the effect if this line (marked in red) was tee'd along with the supply connection at the back? I'm thinking it would only increase the return fuel flow??
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What would happen if the side cover piston wasn't pushed IN before installing the cover?
 
Thanks for the reply.

What would be the effect if this line (marked in red) was tee'd along with the supply connection at the back? I'm thinking it would only increase the return fuel flow??
View attachment 111182

What would happen if the side cover piston wasn't pushed IN before installing the cover?
The starting excess fuel and max fuel settings that the scroll plates control will never work right. The DPS pump is MUCH more complicated than the former DPA pumps are and can be much more costly to repair too.
 
Thanks for the reply.

What would be the effect if this line (marked in red) was tee'd along with the supply connection at the back? I'm thinking it would only increase the return fuel flow??
View attachment 111182

What would happen if the side cover piston wasn't pushed IN before installing the cover?
Hello Dodgeboy, in my opinion you should just give in and get the pump redone by a pro. Dieseltech who replied to you runs a pump shop in Indiana. Many members here ship pumps to him to be worked on, his rates are very reasonable and he does good work. Click on his username and click “Start conversation” this will be a private message to him, where you can discuss more details and prices for him to work on it. When he replies it will show as a number by your envelope icon above at right.
 
The starting excess fuel and max fuel settings that the scroll plates control will never work right. The DPS pump is MUCH more complicated than the former DPA pumps are and can be much more costly to repair too.
due to the fork not being engaged with the piston, or due to driving fuel into the top cover near the other returns?
 
Returns are NOT the problem...
thanks for clarifying.

I partially took the top cover off one more time. I believe the piston wasn't ever 'hooked' on the sliding plate because the cover did not feel as loose originally as it did when I had the piston hooked on the plate. Also, if the piston would have been hooked before, I would have heard the sound of the plate snapping back from spring force when separating it.
 
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thanks for clarifying.

I partially took the top cover off one more time. I believe the piston wasn't ever 'hooked' on the sliding plate because the cover did not feel as loose originally as it did when I had the piston hooked on the plate. Also, if the piston would have been hooked before, I would have heard the sound of the plate snapping back from spring force when separating it.
You will never hear a snap back sound, at least I've never heard it on all the DPS pumps I've repaired.
 
as said above, do yourself a favor and send it to Dieseltech...Rich will fix it properly and cost is not excessive.
 

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