M602 distributor sweating

[Matthew Peterson]

I have a MM M602, no starting problems until lately. The first time it wouldn't start, I checked everything out - long story short, the points were not working and there was A LOT of moisture in the distributor where the points mount. No recent rain. I cleaned the wet rust, installed new points and condenser and all was good. Ran the tractor about an hour. About a week later, exactly the same story! About 5 days later, you guessed, the same story - but this time we had some ignition system sealer. After new points and condenser, again, and spraying the sealer, we were in business. A week later, found out that the sealer did not help. What could be causing the distributor to sweat so much???

 

[MMDEL]

I

I have a MM M602, no starting problems until lately. The first time it wouldn't start, I checked everything out - long story short, the points were not working and there was A LOT of moisture in the distributor where the points mount. No recent rain. I cleaned the wet rust, installed new points and condenser and all was good. Ran the tractor about an hour. About a week later, exactly the same story! About 5 days later, you guessed, the same story - but this time we had some ignition system sealer. After new points and condenser, again, and spraying the sealer, we were in business. A week later, found out that the sealer did not help. What could be causing the distributor to sweat so much???

The lower bearing in the Dist is worn and the moisture is coming from condensation from the crankcase. More so during the winter. You would have to remove the dist and completely rebuild it OR the best way is to convert it to ELECTRONIC IGNITION. Plus you will have better performance.
MMDEL

 

[Matthew Peterson]

Thank you for the input - it sounds logical, but didn't know if I had the problem stemming from the cap (cracked perhaps), that I could not see.
If converting, would I still need to rebuild the distributor? Also, in your opinion, would I need to replace coil and wires, or can the electronic ignition work fine with the existing coil/wires? I have read it both ways...

 

[Jim.ME]

Thank you for the input - it sounds logical, but didn't know if I had the problem stemming from the cap (cracked perhaps), that I could not see.
If converting, would I still need to rebuild the distributor? Also, in your opinion, would I need to replace coil and wires, or can the electronic ignition work fine with the existing coil/wires? I have read it both ways...

Best to rebuild the distributor.

Without knowing what you have for a coil, wires, etc. it is hard to say what you will need to replace. The best advice is to etc., follow the manufacturer's instructions for the EI you decide to purchase and compare that to what you have currently to determine what you need to replace. If you are estimating cost include the cost of those items in your estimate. If you do not need them, you are money ahead, which is better than having to get new ones, after someone said you wouldn't need to change them, so you didn't figure that cost in.

 

[wore out]

A clogged or restricted crankcase breather(s) can cause combustion byproducts to be forced into the distributor, and a worn shaft and bushing(s) will make it easier for larger quantities of combustion byproducts/moisture to sneak into the distributor.

 

[Matthew Peterson]

Thanks for the additional information! I will be working on getting some parts replaced!

 

[chris142]

A clogged or restricted crankcase breather(s) can cause combustion byproducts to be forced into the distributor, and a worn shaft and bushing(s) will make it easier for larger quantities of combustion byproducts.moisture to sneak into the distributor.

I have seen a distributor blow up from that.

 

[MMDEL]

A cracked cap will not effect your problem. In fact the cap probably has a vent hole in it so it can breath. It is the dust cover that is trapping the moisture in the point chamber. This just accrued to me, never tried it. Would possibly if you drilled a hole or two in the dust cover would that allow the moisture to escape and vaporize????????? If it doesn't a new Dust cover is cheap, I have them in stock hardly ever sell one. I still think converting to electronic is the best solution.

 

[farmersamm]

Just to add................................

Check the dwell. This will tell you the condition of the shaft, or bearing/bushing. I dunno how these are made........but if a bushing goes bad, it generally takes the shaft with it. Needle bearings can be just as bad. Like I say........dunno how it's made.

 

[MMDEL]

Just to add................................

Check the dwell. This will tell you the condition of the shaft, or bearing/bushing. I dunno how these are made........but if a bushing goes bad, it generally takes the shaft with it. Needle bearings can be just as bad. Like I say........dunno how it's made.

It is just a bushing. The shaft is no doubt wore some too. The fact that this is a vertical shaft and has little radial load and only turns half the speed of the crank, it lasts a long time. If owners would service it, it would last longer. Below the main housing and above the base there is a plug with a slotted screw slot. Your supposed to remove it and pump some oil in there to lubricate the bearing. Having said that, I have seen where someone has put a grease fitting in there. Possibly if Matthew does that it might seal off the condensation from getting in the dist. But it really needs to be fixed. Like you said the dwell and point of ignition will be all over the place.

 

[molinegb]

If electronic ignition installed would destroy itself unless original problem not rectified.

 

[Matthew Peterson]

Very good advise! Thank y'all!

 

[MMDEL]

If electronic ignition installed would destroy itself unless original problem not rectified.o

I haven't had any problem. Was it Pertronics or some other system??

 

[molinegb]

I haven't had any problem. Was it Pertronics or some other system??

Been into electronics for 45 years. I use only original setup.

 

[MMDEL]

Been into electronics for 45 years. I use only original setup.

What do you mean, MM/Delco never made any original electronics for MM tractors.. (I have been wrong before)

 

[molinegb]

What do you mean, MM/Delco never made any original electronics for MM tractors.. (I have been wrong before)

Original points etc. Still have some NOS. Stay away from Chinese if possible.