Massey Ferguson 135 - Gear Selector Issue

JG_KB24fan

New User
I've got an issue with my 1970 Massey Ferguson 135 (3 cylinder Perkins gas model).

This afternoon, I was shifting into reverse from 1st gear in low range. When I hit what I thought was reverse and let out the clutch, the tractor didn't move, and the engine nearly choked out (in other words, things are "locked up").

I shifted back into neutral and shut the tractor off to see what was up. Long story short, this sounds like a common issue where the tractor gets stuck in a particular gear due to the operator pulling up on the gear selector stick and it getting stuck somewhere it shouldn't be...

However, mine isn't stuck *in* gear. It is seemingly stuck *out of* every gear. Even when I'm in "neutral", I can't actually shake the gear selector freely from side-side. When I attempt to shift into first, it takes a lot of muscle and feels like it's scraping along. Reverse feels like it falls into place, but the tractor doesn't move. I can't move the gear selector into 2nd or 3rd.

Question: I've seen many folks suggest using a small pry bar and/or screwdriver and apply pressure to (something?) to "pop" the selector back where it's supposed to be. Would anyone be able to provide specific directions / pictures of precisely what needs to be done to resolve this issue, if it is indeed the problem outlined elsewhere?
 
The shifter lever or lever tower if it unbolts at the tower needs to be removed so you can see (with a good small light) the shift
rails down in the hole. These need to be moved to a straight line across the center of the hole. A big screw driver, or a small
pry bar is needed to move them. If one or more seem stuck, wiggling the tractor forward and back can take the pressure off of the
gear teeth, and allow movement. If the tip of the shift lever looks worn (compared to a new one or good used (images on google)
then having it built back up and ground/polished back to original is needed. Poke it back down the hole in the slot and fasten.
Jim
 
If this is the transmission I'm thinking of, there is a large oil filler plug
beside the shifter.

Sometimes you can work through the hole with a screw driver to realign the shift
rails to get the transmission and shifter back in neutral position.

Helps to jack one rear wheel up to relax any load off the gears and be able to
turn the wheel to know when it's in neutral.
 
(quoted from post at 12:10:10 11/20/21) The shifter lever or lever tower if it unbolts at the tower needs to be removed so you can see (with a good small light) the shift
rails down in the hole. These need to be moved to a straight line across the center of the hole. A big screw driver, or a small
pry bar is needed to move them. If one or more seem stuck, wiggling the tractor forward and back can take the pressure off of the
gear teeth, and allow movement. If the tip of the shift lever looks worn (compared to a new one or good used (images on google)
then having it built back up and ground/polished back to original is needed. Poke it back down the hole in the slot and fasten.
Jim

When you say the rails need to be "in a straight line across the center of the hole", what exactly do you mean? I have been unable to find a diagram / image / video that explains this part, which seems to be key.

Thanks for your help.
 
That happened to me on my Massey 231 a couple times. I was told it was similar to your 135. Like
Steve said I removed the big filler plug by your left leg on the top of trans. I really don't know
exactly what I did but would move things around a little with a big screw driver as things would
lockup in there causing the problem. It usually happened when I would shift gears too fast or force
things a little more than I should have. It was a easy fix, the guys on here helped me out with it.
I thought I was in for a big problem first time it happened but wasn't a big deal.
 
Imagine 3 twixt candy bars next to each other. Now imagine a square bite taken out of the middle of each one like a notch. These
are shift rails. they are moved forward and back by the tip of the shifter lever, selecting one gear at a time. They each have a
ball and spring some where in their length to position them either in gear, or in neutral (all lined up in the middle). When the
shifter tip gets out of place, it can allow the rails to be in two gears at the same time. Not going to move the tractor then! Jim
info
 
JG welcome to YT! Here is a video of someone
rearranging the gears back in place by prying through
the oil fill. That is not my video and I would highly
suggest not having the engine running while doing
this. He must of had the lo - high lever in neutral.
Poke here
 
These models USUALLY get stuck in reverse, and NOT choke the engine down. Going from first to second gear is what causes the stuck in reverse problem as the first/reverse
shift rail moves so fast it gets into reverse while the shift lever gets into the second/third rail slot, then won't move. Removing the fill cap will allow the
first/reverse rail to be reset when that happens. If tractor WILL NOT move, and loads the engine that's usually a sign the shift fork is broken, and tractor is trying to
use two gears at once. There's a shift rail interlock to keep that from happening, but not if one of the forks is broken. I've seen that happen a few times at the MF
dealer I worked for years ago.
 

Sounds like a job for "screw driver in the the fill plug"

I've had "stuck in gear" and "stuck in neutral"
 
Found it!

Here's what is in there.

The slot across the shift rails (center right), all are lined up. That's the goal,
get them back in line, which puts the transmission in neutral.

Give it your best shot working through the oil filler hole. Taking the top off is
quite an ordeal best I remember.
Shift Rail Alignment
 
as others stated you will need to line the shift rails up going thru the fill plug to the left of the shift levers, if it continues to do this there is a small 1/4 thick plate bolted to the end of the shift
rail housing that restricts their travel ,being first and reverse are used the most the reverse first rail after it hits enough times it will wear thru allowing the rail to travel far enough for the shifter
to jump out of the rail slot , this can cause several different scenario's depending have it was shifted. you can still use it just try to remember not shift into reverse to fast, the fix requires splitting
the tractor behind the transmission.
 

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