MF 150 Diesel no-start

[virto]

Good ol' AD3.152 -

I'll start by saying my diesel experience is nearly non-existent but I'm not unaware of how the concept works.

This tractor ran last in 2023 - it simply won't start. The injection pump was replaced 2 or 3 years ago and it did run reliably since then. I've pulled the hood, the tank and replaced the injectors, which were likely original and very crapped up.

I've bled the crap out of the system, have fuel at all 3 injectors and yet it doesn't even try to fart, sputter or cough. The smallest shot of ether and it pops right off and then dies. Even if there was some air in the system, I think it would have at least tried to do SOMETHING.

I've checked that the stop rod is all the way forward just to be safe.

The fuel return line on the left side (from the seat, looking forward) that runs from the filter back to the tank has a pinhole and will spray fuel when cranking and drip fuel for quite a while afterwards. Is there a chance such a small hole could either bleed off pressure or suck enough air to cause a problem? Either way, I'll need to cut the line and see if I can install a union or have a new line bent up. I don't think the line is available new from anywhere, but I don't have the parts diagram, either.

I don't really want to try a pull-start on it and it's tucked away where I can't pull my truck in alongside to chain two batteries together, but it seems to crank plenty fast. This tractor has normally been a split-second fire even in winter. I'll admit, I'm not super familiar with it, but gramps uses it to mow and blade snow in winter, but he can't really sit out there for hours messing around with it after his stroke.

I'll be happy to hear any input y'all have. Thanks in advance.

 

[Ericp351]

Will she cough with either? A bit won't hurt-don't freak out. Insure "kill flap" (strangulation valve for the fussy) is open, not just the rod fwd. Just like a gas engine choke, since you say you are new to diesels. Good luck.

 

[Jim.ME]

Will she cough with either? A bit won't hurt-don't freak out. Insure "kill flap" (strangulation valve for the fussy) is open, not just the rod fwd. Just like a gas engine choke, since you say you are new to diesels. Good luck.

In his post he said it fires and runs for a second when he gives it a small shot of ether.

Good ol' AD3.152 -

I'll start by saying my diesel experience is nearly non-existent but I'm not unaware of how the concept works.

This tractor ran last in 2023 - it simply won't start. The injection pump was replaced 2 or 3 years ago and it did run reliably since then. I've pulled the hood, the tank and replaced the injectors, which were likely original and very crapped up.

I've bled the crap out of the system, have fuel at all 3 injectors and yet it doesn't even try to fart, sputter or cough. The smallest shot of ether and it pops right off and then dies. Even if there was some air in the system, I think it would have at least tried to do SOMETHING.

I've checked that the stop rod is all the way forward just to be safe.

The fuel return line on the left side (from the seat, looking forward) that runs from the filter back to the tank has a pinhole and will spray fuel when cranking and drip fuel for quite a while afterwards. Is there a chance such a small hole could either bleed off pressure or suck enough air to cause a problem? Either way, I'll need to cut the line and see if I can install a union or have a new line bent up. I don't think the line is available new from anywhere, but I don't have the parts diagram, either.

I don't really want to try a pull-start on it and it's tucked away where I can't pull my truck in alongside to chain two batteries together, but it seems to crank plenty fast. This tractor has normally been a split-second fire even in winter. I'll admit, I'm not super familiar with it, but gramps uses it to mow and blade snow in winter, but he can't really sit out there for hours messing around with it after his stroke.

I'll be happy to hear any input y'all have. Thanks in advance.

Welcome to the forums.

A leak in a return line shouldn't stop it from running but fix it.

Just to confirm fuel at the injectors. Are you seeing more leaking out when it is cranking or just a drip or two.

Is it straight diesel or bio diesel?

Something maybe stuck in the pump. It doesn't take long when setting for some to stick. Try working the throttle lever full stroke and work the shutoff on and off while cranking it over. It's a long shot but it might jar things loose.

You can use the online parts book at AGCOpartsus for free. If it works (the site doesn't always seem to link correctly), I have placed a link to the MF 150 parts book below.

MF 150 parts book

 

[virto]

A leak in a return line shouldn't stop it from running but fix it.

Just to confirm fuel at the injectors. Are you seeing more leaking out when it is cranking or just a drip or two.

Is it straight diesel or bio diesel?

Something maybe stuck in the pump. It doesn't take long when setting for some to stick. Try working the throttle lever full stroke and work the shutoff on and off while cranking it over. It's a long shot but it might jar things loose.

You can use the online parts book at AGCOpartsus for free. If it works (the site doesn't always seem to link correctly), I have placed a link to the MF 150 parts book below.

MF 150 parts book

After posting I kept on reading through various threads and saw it noted that I could patch the return line with regular fuel hose and clamps. That would at least be a temporary solution while I sort things out.

I crack the banjo bolts on the top of the injectors - I forget what Massey actually calls the line - but it's just a return to the tank. Fuel flows very freely from these. I'm not sure what kind of pressure it should be under, but it's not like spraying out with great force or anything.

I admit I tightened the injector feed lines before re-installing the tank and thus, didn't bleed from there, first. I just don't think there's any way I can get a wrench on the lines with the tank installed.

I worked the throttle back and forth several times while cranking but not the stop rod. I have pulled it out and pushed it back in a few times already, though.

I've got a five gallon can of regular on-road diesel from the local Sam's club. They don't specifically state on the pump that it's bio and I couldn't find anything online that would tell me for sure. I did drain the tank beforehand. I wouldn't say it was great (kinda brown but you can still see through it, like a weak tea) but there was no water or offending chunks.

Thanks for the link, I'm going to give it a look.

 

[Jim.ME]

After posting I kept on reading through various threads and saw it noted that I could patch the return line with regular fuel hose and clamps. That would at least be a temporary solution while I sort things out.

I crack the banjo bolts on the top of the injectors - I forget what Massey actually calls the line - but it's just a return to the tank. Fuel flows very freely from these. I'm not sure what kind of pressure it should be under, but it's not like spraying out with great force or anything.

I admit I tightened the injector feed lines before re-installing the tank and thus, didn't bleed from there, first. I just don't think there's any way I can get a wrench on the lines with the tank installed.

I worked the throttle back and forth several times while cranking but not the stop rod. I have pulled it out and pushed it back in a few times already, though.

I've got a five gallon can of regular on-road diesel from the local Sam's club. They don't specifically state on the pump that it's bio and I couldn't find anything online that would tell me for sure. I did drain the tank beforehand. I wouldn't say it was great (kinda brown but you can still see through it, like a weak tea) but there was no water or offending chunks.

Thanks for the link, I'm going to give it a look.

The banjo bolts on top of the injectors are just the return fuel not the right place to bleed. You need to crack the high pressure lines, from the injection pump, at the injector end to bleed those lines.

I would put at least another 5 gallons in it, full tanks usually bleed systems better.

 

[virto]

The banjo bolts on top of the injectors are just the return fuel not the right place to bleed. You need to crack the high pressure lines, from the injection pump, at the injector end to bleed those lines.

I would put at least another 5 gallons in it, full tanks usually bleed systems better.

It wouldn't ultimately bleed through the return, just more slowly?

I can put more into the tank but I'm hesitant to fill it too full in the event that I need to lift it back off again.

 

[Jim.ME]

It wouldn't ultimately bleed through the return, just more slowly?

I can put more into the tank but I'm hesitant to fill it too full in the event that I need to lift it back off again.

Air in the high pressure lines will compress and not "pop" the injector, so it won't pass fuel through it easily. It is best to crack those lines and bleed the air out. You need to keep the battery(s) charged up so it turns fast. Do it in short bursts, with cooling breaks, as not to burn the starter up

 

[Old Ford Mechanic]

You must open the 3 lines at the injector coming from the pump. Just crack open "DO NOT REMOVE". Then activate the starter to turn the engine. Make sure the stop lever is in the run position. If you bled the filter and the pump and if your pump is good you should get fuel at the injectors after several revolutions of the engine. When you get fuel retighten the fuel line and then you tractor should start and run. You are wasting your time on the return lines.

 

[Old Ford Mechanic]

Also you can get a wrench on the lines without lifting or removing the tank. BTDT many times.

 

[virto]

Thanks for the input guys. I'll head to town for some fuel line to make a repair on the return in the morning and then get back to it and let you know. I topped the battery last night but I'll go hook it back up and set her to slow roast.

Chat with you more tomorrow.

 

[virto]

SITREP -

I ran to town this morning and grabbed some fuel line, cut off the rusted section of return and patched it. But dumb me grabbed 1/4 instead of 3/16 line and reefing on the clamps wasn't enough. I swapped it temporarily with some 3/16 clear tubing which won't hold up in the end, but is enough for me to stop dumping diesel on the ground while working on it.

I had to take a cheap wrench to the bench grinder to TRY and make it fit (the way the wrench heads all angle down now prevents you from getting a good angle) and it's better but it's far from ideal. I never thought I'd want to see one of those crappy stamped steel straight wrenches you used to get with cheap furniture again.

The fuel system is bled including both the top and bottom bleeders on the injection pump. I wasn't getting any flow up to the injectors, unlike yesterday. I was curious and cracked the line off the the pump for the front injector and - nothing. Nothing at all. Crack the bleeder and it sprays 5 feet but it's just not sending fuel out.

 

[virto]

I guess tomorrow I'll check the in-pump filter screen. Although the tractor is stored with the fuel stop in the "run" position, I did work it back and forth several times yesterday. Is it possible the cutoff is stuck shut? Is that under the top cap of the pump?

 

[Old Ford Mechanic]

From your description i think the metering valve is stuck in your pump. Not a job for a novice mechanic as there are spring connections under the top cover that have be reinstalled in the correct location after removal. The pump should be removed and taken to a pump shop for a complete rebuild.

 

[virto]

Looking that way. I had the top cover off today and the metering valve is completely free - I expected it to be gummy at the very least. All back together and now I get drips to the injectors but minus any pressure, so the plungers are probably stuck or otherwise. It'll likely end up coming off to be sent out once I manage to land a new job. The fun side of a layoff is the chance to work on things, the downside is those things better be cheap, haha.

Thanks to everyone for the help, it means a lot.

 

[Dieseltech]

The last three pumps I tore down in for repair all had stuck rotor plungers. Been seeing that a lot lately.

 

[virto]

The last three pumps I tore down in for repair all had stuck rotor plungers. Been seeing that a lot lately.

It's unfortunate - I'm out of work right now (yay layoffs) and the old man is a retired farmer so these fairly big ticket items suck to run into, but I'll get it figured out one way or another.

I can only assume this is caused by modern fuels. The pumps he uses aren't specifically noted as bio, but it wouldn't shock me in the least if it was.

 

[hearnc843]

Here are the steps I would take-
1. Are you bleeding the system at the injector lines? You will need a 5/8" wrench. Go the 8 minute mark of the video to see what I am referring to. Just a quarter to half turn on those to loosen them.

2. If you are not getting fuel shooting out after loosing them and cranking, that means fuel is not getting to the lines. Fuel should be spurting out quiet hard. Follow the fuel shut off plunger cable on the dash to the front of the injector, make sure the arm it pushes is fully foward, you may have to push it with your finger. The fuel shut off lines can loosen up over time.

3. If you still can't get fuel spurting out the injectors after doing that, almost certainly you need to rebuild your pump. Dieseltech does it, or you could also do it yourself if you are handy. If you are pressed for repair cost, the pump reseal kit is under $30 dollars

 

[virto]

I wish the injector lines were that easy to get to on a 150. The injectors mount 90 degrees off of these on the 180.

The pump is shot, I assume the plungers are seized. I've got a guy on another forum that's been talking to me that also rebuilds them for a living. He's quoted me a price, but I can check with DT.

I don't have most of my tools here at the farm yet, unfortunately. I think I'd be hard pressed to get into it myself.

 

[hearnc843]

To my knowledge, you have to bleed at least 1 injector line to get the air out of the system. Have you tried bleeding it from the pump side of the injector line?

 

[virto]

To my knowledge, you have to bleed at least 1 injector line to get the air out of the system. Have you tried bleeding it from the pump side of the injector line?

I barely get anything out of the pump whatsoever, let alone up to the injectors. I pulled the front injector line off the pump before I went under the top cover and got nothing at all out of it. After playing around with the metering valve, I get a random drip here and there off the line at the injector but I haven't pulled it back off the pump to see exactly what it's doing.

I guess it's possible there's still air in there, but I bled both filters and both top and bottom check plugs on the pump and I'm not getting any hissing or bubbling.