MF 180 clutch broke

Seams it is always something.... Did a test plowing of 3" of snow for the first time with my MF 180 diesel. All worked well. Then yesterday got hit with 8" more snow. Plowed 800 foot drive and parking area. Then went over to plow the neighbors drive. Fist reverse push of snow out of the drive to cross the road ditch clutch petal went down to the floor too easy and I then could not get it to shift into first. I had to turn tractor off, put it in gear and restart the tractor. Heck of a strain on the old starter trying to start the engine and move a 6000 pound tractor at the same time. I was lucky there is no neutral safety switch on this tractor. Or I still would be blocking the road completely off. So in first gear all the way back to the barn. My first thought was the adjustable connection rod came off. So on a closer inspection, all external components intact. So the issue is internal. What the heck broke? Over the summer I did have to split the tractor to repair Hi/Low planetary gear. But that did not involve getting into the clutch area.

Dieseltech are you out there? Looks like I need your wisdom again.​

 
Seams it is always something.... Did a test plowing of 3" of snow for the first time with my MF 180 diesel. All worked well. Then yesterday got hit with 8" more snow. Plowed 800 foot drive and parking area. Then went over to plow the neighbors drive. Fist reverse push of snow out of the drive to cross the road ditch clutch petal went down to the floor too easy and I then could not get it to shift into first. I had to turn tractor off, put it in gear and restart the tractor. Heck of a strain on the old starter trying to start the engine and move a 6000 pound tractor at the same time. I was lucky there is no neutral safety switch on this tractor. Or I still would be blocking the road completely off. So in first gear all the way back to the barn. My first thought was the adjustable connection rod came off. So on a closer inspection, all external components intact. So the issue is internal. What the heck broke? Over the summer I did have to split the tractor to repair Hi/Low planetary gear. But that did not involve getting into the clutch area.

Dieseltech are you out there? Looks like I need your wisdom again.​

Has the external arm slipped on the throwout bearing shaft? I would expect a lot of clearance if that happened.

If all the external linkage is hooked up, I suggest you get under it and remove the 4 bolt inspection plate from under the clutch and look inside to see if that area looks ok. Anything broke or seeming unhooked? Pressure plate fingers intact and at an even height? How much clearance between the fingers and throwout bearing?

For a couple things, it is possible fingers broke on the pressure plate, or the clutch friction disc piled up. and there are more possibilities deeper in the powertrain. About anything you can't see unhooked on the outside, is going to need a split to fix.

Look at what you can now as people are going to ask if you looked in there. Just my thoughts
 
Has the external arm slipped on the throwout bearing shaft? I would expect a lot of clearance if that happened.

If all the external linkage is hooked up, I suggest you get under it and remove the 4 bolt inspection plate from under the clutch and look inside to see if that area looks ok. Anything broke or seeming unhooked? Pressure plate fingers intact and at an even height? How much clearance between the fingers and throwout bearing?

For a couple things, it is possible fingers broke on the pressure plate, or the clutch friction disc piled up. and there are more possibilities deeper in the powertrain. About anything you can't see unhooked on the outside, is going to need a split to fix.

Look at what you can now as people are going to ask if you looked in there. Just my thoughts
Thanks. I don't recall any inspection plate from the last time working on the tractor, but will look tonight. I just love working in the cold, wet and dark barn. Went back and looked at some older picture from last repair I think i see the cover plate in the first picture. So there is hope.
 

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Thanks. I don't recall any inspection plate from the last time working on the tractor, but will look tonight. I just love working in the cold, wet and dark barn.
I've seen times when a cold, wet, dark barn would have been much nicer than where I was at the time.

If the plate is missing, you still have the opening, the plate should be covering, which lets you look in the clutch area. They show three different plates were used, it appear that one plate only used two bolts to hold it up in place. the bolts (capscrews) are all 5/8 so take a 15/16" socket or wrench under there with you.
 
I'd pull that lower plate like Jim said and look up inside, I've seen the release bearing fail and GRIND OFF the release lever bolts and ARMS before, the outer CLAMP bolt MIGHT have been loose enough to let the arm slip too. Question, does the tractor have the two stage clutch for PTO OR the single clutch with the HYDRAULIC PTO clutch pack?
 
Thanks. I don't recall any inspection plate from the last time working on the tractor, but will look tonight. I just love working in the cold, wet and dark barn. Went back and looked at some older picture from last repair I think i see the cover plate in the first picture. So there is hope.
Get someone to help, push the clutch pedal and make sure that arm turns the shaft it is bolted to in your first pic. To have the pedal just go to the floor would entail a lot of damage inside the pressure plate, or the rim broke off the throwout bearing, like Dieseltech is saying.
 
I'd pull that lower plate like Jim said and look up inside, I've seen the release bearing fail and GRIND OFF the release lever bolts and ARMS before, the outer CLAMP bolt MIGHT have been loose enough to let the arm slip too. Question, does the tractor have the two stage clutch for PTO OR the single clutch with the HYDRAULIC PTO clutch pack?
Was nice to find that the MF 180 has that plate. My Ford 2000 doesn't have one. Since I only recently repaired this tractor It has not seen much use because I use the smaller ford most of the time. I have the ford now at another property so I'm putting this MF180 to more use. Years back I dropped it in a pond and I'm thinking that washed any grease out of the throw-out bearing. Then sitting for years the bearing has rusted solid. So in plowing snow the constant fwd/rev heated and friction melted the finger ends. So it looks like this gal will have to be split. No time, no money, extra cold, and need the tractor daily now. So yes... the perfect scenario for "its a wonderful life" I put a "?" mark on that smaller bearing. Is that one called the pilot bearing? So now I need to determine best approach and parts needed to facilitate the repairs. Any suggestions? Thanks. (smart phone can see things I can't. This is the first useful task that it has done for me)
 

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I've seen times when a cold, wet, dark barn would have been much nicer than where I was at the time.

If the plate is missing, you still have the opening, the plate should be covering, which lets you look in the clutch area. They show three different plates were used, it appear that one plate only used two bolts to hold it up in place. the bolts (capscrews) are all 5/8 so take a 15/16" socket or wrench under there with you.
Yes the MF 180 has that plate. My Ford 2000 doesn't have one. This is what confuses me sometime. See my reply to Dieseltech. Thankyou for your support.
 
I'd pull that lower plate like Jim said and look up inside, I've seen the release bearing fail and GRIND OFF the release lever bolts and ARMS before, the outer CLAMP bolt MIGHT have been loose enough to let the arm slip too. Question, does the tractor have the two stage clutch for PTO OR the single clutch with the HYDRAULIC PTO clutch pack?
Looking at the "known" required parts I would need on this site, I don't see the wear item that would fit in the 3 release levers, that the release bearing would press against.
 
Please confirm which PTO you have as Dieseltech asked, two stage clutch or independent PTO. The clutch drawing you posted is of an independent PTO, the parts in them are not the same.

I would not reuse those release levers, even with new contact screws, lever material has worn away and been hot. That would be a recipe to do it again in a short time in my opinion. If you want to rebuild the pressure plate you need to disassemble and inspect before ordering parts and they may be dealer only or a specialized clutch shop. I would just get a clutch kit, given the history of the tractor you gave. A full kit should have a pilot bearing (that is the small bearing), throwout bearing, clutch disc, and pressure plate. You should get one that has the alignment shaft tool for installation ease. Your service manual may call out a tool/gauge to check finger height once the clutch is installed. If it does post the number and someone may be able to give you the dimensions so you can make one. Condition of the flywheel and throwout bearing carrier will need to be determined once you have it split to access them.
 
Looking at the "known" required parts I would need on this site, I don't see the wear item that would fit in the 3 release levers, that the release bearing would press against.
Your three special release bolts are GONE, And most parts sites sell complete clutch pressure plate assemblies WITH the release arms and bolts together. As an OLD MF mechanic I always got the parts from MF and repaired my own if the cover was good.
 
Please confirm which PTO you have as Dieseltech asked, two stage clutch or independent PTO. The clutch drawing you posted is of an independent PTO, the parts in them are not the same.

I would not reuse those release levers, even with new contact screws, lever material has worn away and been hot. That would be a recipe to do it again in a short time in my opinion. If you want to rebuild the pressure plate you need to disassemble and inspect before ordering parts and they may be dealer only or a specialized clutch shop. I would just get a clutch kit, given the history of the tractor you gave. A full kit should have a pilot bearing (that is the small bearing), throwout bearing, clutch disc, and pressure plate. You should get one that has the alignment shaft tool for installation ease. Your service manual may call out a tool/gauge to check finger height once the clutch is installed. If it does post the number and someone may be able to give you the dimensions so you can make one. Condition of the flywheel and throwout bearing carrier will need to be determined once you have it split to access them.
Agreed
 
Your three special release bolts are GONE, And most parts sites sell complete clutch pressure plate assemblies WITH the release arms and bolts together. As an OLD MF mechanic I always got the parts from MF and repaired my own if the cover was good.
Yes, baby steps while also trying to work at work. lol. Was looking for the parts here first learning the proper names of each component before searching further online. I'd rather replace the worn and damaged parts then swap out a full assemble. This is a dual clutch. With pedal fully depressed nothing moves. Let it out 1/2 way, lift arms come up. Let it out fully tractor moves. (PTO has a separate lever. Constant RPM, center off, turns at ground speed fwd/rev) Parts would not be ordered till I have damage parts in my hands.
 
Please confirm which PTO you have as Dieseltech asked, two stage clutch or independent PTO. The clutch drawing you posted is of an independent PTO, the parts in them are not the same.

I would not reuse those release levers, even with new contact screws, lever material has worn away and been hot. That would be a recipe to do it again in a short time in my opinion. If you want to rebuild the pressure plate you need to disassemble and inspect before ordering parts and they may be dealer only or a specialized clutch shop. I would just get a clutch kit, given the history of the tractor you gave. A full kit should have a pilot bearing (that is the small bearing), throwout bearing, clutch disc, and pressure plate. You should get one that has the alignment shaft tool for installation ease. Your service manual may call out a tool/gauge to check finger height once the clutch is installed. If it does post the number and someone may be able to give you the dimensions so you can make one. Condition of the flywheel and throwout bearing carrier will need to be determined once you have it split to access them.
The burned release ends are the Two stage PTO/MAIN clutch assembly. The split torque hydraulic PTO drive only has the main traction discin the flywheel.
 
The burned release ends are the Two stage PTO/MAIN clutch assembly. The split torque hydraulic PTO drive only has the main traction discin the flywheel.
Never sure who a statement or answer is for, at times. And sometime they can be confusing for me till one is hands-on with the parts in ones hands. My clutch is 2 stage. Which stage is which I have seen it both ways, 1 then 2 and 2 then 1 while letting the clutch pedal out. Either way. It disengages the tractor wheels, then disengages the PTO as the clutch petal is pushed in. So I'm calling this a "Two Stage PTO/MAIN Clutch assembly" So I should be looking for a complete Rebuild Kit for it that contains the 3 release levers having the contact screws. Right? Looking at parts list in this forum, I don't see the contact screws listed.
 
The burned release ends are the Two stage PTO/MAIN clutch assembly. The split torque hydraulic PTO drive only has the main traction discin the flywheel.
I don't disagree, more trying to see if he is clear on what he has. Am I wrong in saying the drawing he posted, of appears to be the Split Torque clutch set up for an independent PTO, not the two stage clutch for the live/continuous PTO which his tractor has (and his picture is of)? The drawing indicates the center splined plate is riveted to the cover. The Split Torque drawing fingers show adjusting screws as well. There is likely a difference in the fingers and cover you recognize from years of working on both that I didn't pick up on in the picture.

The main point is one needs to be sure one is looking at the correct info for clutch they have in the parts book. He only wants to look at the Dual Clutch (Live PTO) pages in his parts book and when searching parts.
 
Ohiopioneer,

If you want to purchase individual pieces (levers, screws, springs, pins, fiber washers, etc.) to rebuild your pressure plate, your best chance is going to be getting them from your local MF dealer as Dieseltech posted. Dieseltech can likely answer with more certainty however I don't think it is ordering a kit with those parts in it, it is you order individual parts by the quantity you need.
 
Ohiopioneer,

If you want to purchase individual pieces (levers, screws, springs, pins, fiber washers, etc.) to rebuild your pressure plate, your best chance is going to be getting them from your local MF dealer as Dieseltech posted. Dieseltech can likely answer with more certainty however I don't think it is ordering a kit with those parts in it, it is you order individual parts by the quantity you need.
The only dealer around me closed 15 years ago, that is why and how I found this group. So far from the actual parts that I see I need the only item that I don't see here is the contact screw. All I would need to know for them is the material they're made of an I can make them. :)
 
The only dealer around me closed 15 years ago, that is why and how I found this group. So far from the actual parts that I see I need the only item that I don't see here is the contact screw. All I would need to know for them is the material they're made of an I can make them. :)
As an OLD MF mechanic I would NOT try to make those clutch screws. Lots of MF tractors used that Spicer two stage clutch so parts are not hard to get. You would be better off getting a complete exchange pressure plate assembly, both the 175 and 180 used the same clutch assembly in either the Split torque model OR the two stage like your tractor has. The split torque was ONLY used on tractors that have the rear INSIDE hydraulic PTO clutch pack.
 
The only dealer around me closed 15 years ago, that is why and how I found this group. So far from the actual parts that I see I need the only item that I don't see here is the contact screw. All I would need to know for them is the material they're made of an I can make them. :)
Here is a link to the AGCO parts catalog for your tractor, the clutch is in section 212 if it does not go directly to it. AGCO MF 180 parts catalog Use the part numbers in a web search to find alternative sources. I am certain you can arrange to have a dealer ship these to you as well.
 

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