MF 203 FEL pump drive?

[Viperking]

My 102 loader (very similar to your 200) lists 17 GPM@ 2000 RPM, 2150 psi.

The tractor uses a SAE "A" type mount. Any SAE A pump with a 3/4 shaft and CCW rotation will work.

The pump/ spool will dictate filter microns. 25 micron is standard. If you put the filter on the suction line, you need an 1 1/4" filter housing. Zinga SE 25? It's listed for suction. Below is a picture of mine.

Take a look at Surplus Center.

1.95 cu in Dynamic GPF2032PA Hydraulic Pump | Gear Pumps | Hydraulic Pumps | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

1.95 cu in Dynamic GPF2032PA Hydraulic Pump, Gear Pumps, 1.95 cu in DYNAMIC GPF2032PA HYD PUMP, 1.95 cu in DYNAMIC GPF2032PA HYD PUMP Brand new,Dynamic,GP-F20-32-P-A ,

www.surpluscenter.com

Thank you for the information, it helps alot.

That is an in-tank Return flow filter, it will not work for him. That filter unit needs a hole in the reservoir for the black part to fit in. The black bottom housing has to be inside the reservoir as the stub at the bottom is the outlet. And it uses a replacement element, not a screen.

Buyers HFA9 series filters

View attachment 85358

I’m assuming I also need a fluid tank?

 

[Stan Coryell]

My 102 loader (very similar to your 200) lists 17 GPM@ 2000 RPM, 2150 psi.

The tractor uses a SAE "A" type mount. Any SAE A pump with a 3/4 shaft and CCW rotation will work.

The pump/ spool will dictate filter microns. 25 micron is standard. If you put the filter on the suction line, you need an 1 1/4" filter housing. Zinga SE 25? It's listed for suction. Below is a picture of mine.

Take a look at Surplus Center.

1.95 cu in Dynamic GPF2032PA Hydraulic Pump | Gear Pumps | Hydraulic Pumps | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

1.95 cu in Dynamic GPF2032PA Hydraulic Pump, Gear Pumps, 1.95 cu in DYNAMIC GPF2032PA HYD PUMP, 1.95 cu in DYNAMIC GPF2032PA HYD PUMP Brand new,Dynamic,GP-F20-32-P-A ,

www.surpluscenter.com

Thank you for the information, it helps alot.

I’m assuming I also need a fluid tank?

A better picture of the filter set up.

The fluid reservoir is in the loader frame, no tank is needed.

 

[Viperking]

A better picture of the filter set up.

The fluid reservoir is in the loader frame, no tank is needed.

I see, I was wondering what the pipe in my frame was for. What’s the best way to clean the tank out since it has been laying on the ground outside for a year or two? The loader was disassembled into all 4 pieces

 

[stevieb49829]

I see, I was wondering what the pipe in my frame was for. What’s the best way to clean the tank out since it has been laying on the ground outside for a year or two? The loader was disassembled into all 4 pieces

I like to use kerosene. Just put a gallon or 2 into the loader frame reservoir, kind of slosh it around a bit, and see what comes out. If it comes out relatively clean, drain it all, button it up, and fill with hydraulic fluid. There may be a cover plate on the frame that allows access to a strainer screen inside the reservoir. The screen will be inside, where the suction hose attaches on the outside. Clean the screen if you have access. There is either a dip stick or a sight window or plug to check the level in the reservoir when you are filling it.

Be advised that Stan's pictures show hose clamps on the suction side of the pump. That's the ONLY place it is safe to use them in a hydraulic system. Anything on the pressure side needs rated hydraulic hoses and fittings. steve

 

[Stan Coryell]

I see, I was wondering what the pipe in my frame was for. What’s the best way to clean the tank out since it has been laying on the ground outside for a year or two? The loader was disassembled into all 4 pieces

I use diesel, because I already have it around.

My tank outlet is an inch above the bottom. That bottom was full of sludge, a mix of goo, grit, metal, and moisture. I welded a 3/4" FNPT half coupling on the bottom, and rigging up a transfer pump to circulated diesel through the tank 2 1/2 gallons at a time. I had to do it four times to get the tank clean. I also stroked the cylinders and blew out the hydraulic lines, then refilled with ISO 46.

My filter element was long gone and NLA. I added a 125 micron spin on filter at got about 2 hours out of it before the suction pressure got to -10". I changed the fluid again and switched to a 25 micron filter. That lasted about 10 hours. The third filter has around 30 hours with no issues.

As a word of caution; I would assess the chrome pistons and hoses carefully. I had one lift cylinder chromed and repacked. That was about $1000. Hoses are around $50 each. A new spool valve is around $300. Yes, parts may be found cheaper.

It took me around two years to get this all worked out but I was still able to run the loader during that time. Both dump cylinders weap if not fully retracted. I also upgraded to an almost new 72" bucket for $200. I won't guess how much money I have in it... I'm happy with the end product.

Too bad the engine block is cracked (currently bolted together and not leaking) and the rear main leaks like the Titanic. I hope to get into the engine by the end of the year. Oh, my 3 point doesn't work right either. I figure that this should all be sorted out in the next five years. Hopefully.

Some poor photos attached.

 

[Viperking]

I use diesel, because I already have it around.

My tank outlet is an inch above the bottom. That bottom was full of sludge, a mix of goo, grit, metal, and moisture. I welded a 3/4" FNPT half coupling on the bottom, and rigging up a transfer pump to circulated diesel through the tank 2 1/2 gallons at a time. I had to do it four times to get the tank clean. I also stroked the cylinders and blew out the hydraulic lines, then refilled with ISO 46.

My filter element was long gone and NLA. I added a 125 micron spin on filter at got about 2 hours out of it before the suction pressure got to -10". I changed the fluid again and switched to a 25 micron filter. That lasted about 10 hours. The third filter has around 30 hours with no issues.

As a word of caution; I would assess the chrome pistons and hoses carefully. I had one lift cylinder chromed and repacked. That was about $1000. Hoses are around $50 each. A new spool valve is around $300. Yes, parts may be found cheaper.

It took me around two years to get this all worked out but I was still able to run the loader during that time. Both dump cylinders weap if not fully retracted. I also upgraded to an almost new 72" bucket for $200. I won't guess how much money I have in it... I'm happy with the end product.

Too bad the engine block is cracked (currently bolted together and not leaking) and the rear main leaks like the Titanic. I hope to get into the engine by the end of the year. Oh, my 3 point doesn't work right either. I figure that this should all be sorted out in the next five years. Hopefully.

Some poor photos attached.

Most of the fuel lines on mine leaks at the ferrules, but no leaks anywhere else. I’ll probably make the lines myself, at least the ones with easy to make curves.
Since I just purchased it I don’t know how well it’ll do under load, but so far it shifts and runs well. I plan to replace most of the hydraulic hoses before using the FEL, in the meantime I’ll use the 3 point for moving the big bales once I weld up the attachment.

What hydraulic fluid do you use? I use ISO 46 for a IHI mini excavator.
Some photos of mine

 

[stevieb49829]

The viscosity number on your hydraulic fluid should be determined by where you live, and how hard you use your hydraulics. steve

 

[Stan Coryell]

Above 20 deg F, you'll be fine with the ISO 46. That's what I run.

You could use ATF or UTF as well. Originally it likely called for ATF. The viscosity of ISO 46 is close to ATF.