MH 44 Won't keep running.

Thought I would give an update. After the third new coil, and two different types, I read some place that with electronic ignitions (points & condenser) if you have a bad positive wire, from what I will call the electronic points, to the coil , it will cause the coil to over heat and not discharge properly. So, I got a replacement electronic point unit. I started the tractor up (which has never been a problem) and 10-15 minutes later it quits, but the coil is not hot, warm, but not hot. This time when it quit, it sounded different.

If you recall, I had the carb rebuilt, flushed the gas tank and put in a new fuel bowel, filter, and fuel line.

I pulled the carb just to check it out. The float seat on the newly rebuilt carb was sticking closed. Problem solved?....Nope. Ran for about 10 minutes and quit again (coil still not hot).

I pulled the fuel line off the carb and checked the flow of gas out of the fuel line. I Made sure the gas tank cap was loose. The flow seemed a little slower that previous. I shined a flashlight through the fuel bowel and saw a few very fine particles in the bottom. I open and closed the fuel bowel valve and heard some grinding of the valve when opened all the way. I shut off the bowel valve, took the bowel apart, and the filter disk was almost spotless. I put the bowel back together, opened the valve, and bowel filled a lot slower than it should have. I took some compressed air and blow it back through the end of the fuel line (that attaches to the carb) until I could hear air gurgling in the gas tank.

I checked the fuel bowel glass again.....there was now about an 1/8" of fine sediment in the bottom of the fuel bowel. It must have been clogging the fuel bowel valve opening. I had checked the inside of the tank twice since flushing it for any paint chips and such the might be clogging the tank discharge, there was none. These particles settled in the fuel bowel valve body and did not pass through the valve body into the bowel. They could not be seen from the gas tank cap opening with a high power flash light. The particles are no bigger than grains of salt.

Fuel is now flowing properly to, and through the carb, and the coil is not getting hot. This has definitely been a "one step forward and occasionally two steps back process. All-in-all, after needing to flushed out the gas tank, rebuild a starter, rebuild a carb, figure out a coil failure, figure out an electronic point failure, another coil failure, repair of a rebuilt carb, new plugs, plug wires, new fuel bowel, filter, and fuel line, and a clogged fuel valve after the tanks was flushed, it now runs pretty darn good (for more the 15-20 minutes) for a 75-year old piece of machinery. Sure wish '"they" made stuff like this now-a-days
 
I could use some help/ideas. I have a MH 44. It is a 44 GR, 4-cylinder, gas, S# 12653 with a Zenith carb and Continental engine. It starts fine and runs for about 5 minutes and dies. Minutes later it can be restarted, and runs for about 30 seconds and dies. There after it will start and maybe run for 10 seconds and die The choke can be pulled and pushed and it will sputter on for a few more seconds and then die. The carb was just rebuilt. The carb was just recleaned. The fuel line filter is brand new, the glass fuel filter bowel has been removed because the bowel screen was tore. The gas tank outlet is not clogged. The gas tank has been drained. It has new gas. Fuel flows freely and evenly through the fuel line to the carb. The carb inlet elbow is not clogged. The electrical coil has been replaced. Electronic distributor parts have been installed to replaced the points & condenser. The timing has been set and is good while running. The governor moves freely. The carb jet settings have been adjusted/altered with no change in the dyeing situation. Air suction at the air inlet of carb would take a glove off my hand. . I noticed ice crystals appear on the manifold, where it is connected to the top of the carb, and the crystals go up about 3 inches on the manifold. . Another note, when I recleaned the newly rebuilt carb, and was blowing out the carb orifices, it appears a "leg" of the new venturi, where it is pressed into the carb body was placed so it was somewhat blocking (not totally) a port/orifice that would feed into the venturi. Didn't look normal, but don't know. Any suggestions to try would be greatly appreciated.
get rid of the inline fuel filter
 
Yep, get rid of the inline fuel filter. Might not be your issue today but it will be one day. These old tractors were not designed to have them and don't need them as long as you have your sediment bowl.
 

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