Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC Value

[Jack345]

I'm thinking about selling my Miller welder and would like to know if anyone has purchased one & approx price they are selling for . Thanks

Style JE 14..Crank handle on top 225amp​

 

[farmersamm]

Miller Thunderbolt for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for Miller Thunderbolt at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!

www.ebay.com

Personally, if it works good, I wouldn't sell it. You can't replace it with a decent welder these days.........they're all that inverter crap.

 

[wp6529]

Miller Thunderbolt for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for Miller Thunderbolt at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!

www.ebay.com

Personally, if it works good, I wouldn't sell it. You can't replace it with a decent welder these days.........they're all that inverter crap.

I'm loving my "inverter crap" ~40# MIG/stick machine. I was just using it outside yesterday doing a lot of flux core on 3/16"-1/4" steel. Really like the easy portability and have yet to run into any duty cycle limitations in normal non-production welding. I still love my Synchrowave 250 as well, but at ~500# it's not exactly portable.

 

[stdsch40]

I'm loving my "inverter crap" ~40# MIG/stick machine. I was just using it outside yesterday doing a lot of flux core on 3/16"-1/4" steel. Really like the easy portability and have yet to run into any duty cycle limitations in normal non-production welding. I still love my Synchrowave 250 as well, but at ~500# it's not exactly portable.

100% dead on. Both are excellent machines for their respective purposes.

 

[Janicholson]

The thunderbolt has very poor arc starting ability. I have one at the SCSU Technology lab and it is a replacement for an old Lincoln that failed. I call it OK when the arc is started, but difficult to teach on for that reason. Jim

 

[Butch(OH)]

The thunderbolt has very poor arc starting ability. I have one at the SCSU Technology lab and it is a replacement for an old Lincoln that failed. I call it OK when the arc is started, but difficult to teach on for that reason. Jim

You got that right, I suffered with one of those rod sticking pieces of junk for several years until one day I was working under my truck trying to hold a repair piece and weld at lower amperage. After sticking the rod a dozen times I went into a rage and threw it in the scrap bin. Went to the Miller dealer in town and bought and brand new Dialarc AC/DC 250 sitting on a roll around cart. Was a lot of money, more than I should have spent but wow, what a welder.

 

[farmersamm]

The thunderbolt has very poor arc starting ability. I have one at the SCSU Technology lab and it is a replacement for an old Lincoln that failed. I call it OK when the arc is started, but difficult to teach on for that reason. Jim

Dunno what rod you're running, but let's say it's 7018............does the machine stick a rod that's brand new?

 

[caterpillar guy]

I find for 7018 if you put it in the oven for a half hour or so just to warm it up and dry it out it welds much better than out of the box in the shed. setting in the shed with the open box it will take on moisture.

 

[Janicholson]

Dunno what rod you're running, but let's say it's 7018............does the machine stick a rod that's brand new?

It does!!! Our rods are fresh, and stored in a heated rod cabinet. The Thunderbolt issue may be open circuit voltage, or lack of instantaneous amps, but it sticks rods easily. When our students figure out how to reliably get an arc started they can happily start an arc on other boxes easily. We also have an AC only Thunderbolt. It is the same poor starting feel as the AC/DC unit. Jim

 

[farmersamm]

It does!!! Our rods are fresh, and stored in a heated rod cabinet. The Thunderbolt issue may be open circuit voltage, or lack of instantaneous amps, but it sticks rods easily. When our students figure out how to reliably get an arc started they can happily start an arc on other boxes easily. We also have an AC only Thunderbolt. It is the same poor starting feel as the AC/DC unit. Jim

That really sux. I understand poor restrikes with 7018, but a strike on a new rod shouldn't be an issue. Sounds like an endemic problem with this particular model machine. Hate to hear that an old line Miller will run like this. I love the old style machines. Bummer.

For those who don't know...........you can easily restrike 7018 if you remove the flux at the tip of the rod. Generally removing the rod from the stinger, and rubbing it on plate will do............or you can break it off with your thumb while the rod is still warm from welding. Long as shiny metal on the tip of the rod is exposed, you're good to go. If you have all day, some folks recommend using a rough file for the purpose.

If you lose some flux from the tip of the rod, beyond the tip...........the rod will try to stick unless you long arc it until you burn back to solid flux. Long arcing, if within the puddle path, is generally ok......don't arc outside the joint.

For a series of short welds, it's often best to switch to 7018 AC. AC rods restrike easily. This is one of the reasons I don't like some of the modern inverter machines..........they can't run AC rods. AC can be your friend when you encounter severe arc blow.

Excalibur generally exhibits somewhat poor starts on occasion. Especially in 3/32 diameter. Better starts, and more heat, can be obtained by using Atom Arc. The ESAB Acclaim is also a fairly good hot running rod.

Optimum performance from these rods is in the higher amp range. 125amps for 1/8, 85-90amps for 3/32. Never be a slave to the dial on the welder...........they all differ. 125amps on one machine might not be 125amps on another machine. Set it so it runs good, forget the numbers.

 

[Butch(OH)]

That really sux. I understand poor restrikes with 7018, but a strike on a new rod shouldn't be an issue. Sounds like an endemic problem with this particular model machine. Hate to hear that an old line Miller will run like this. I love the old style machines. Bummer.

For those who don't know...........you can easily restrike 7018 if you remove the flux at the tip of the rod. Generally removing the rod from the stinger, and rubbing it on plate will do............or you can break it off with your thumb while the rod is still warm from welding. Long as shiny metal on the tip of the rod is exposed, you're good to go. If you have all day, some folks recommend using a rough file for the purpose.

If you lose some flux from the tip of the rod, beyond the tip...........the rod will try to stick unless you long arc it until you burn back to solid flux. Long arcing, if within the puddle path, is generally ok......don't arc outside the joint.

For a series of short welds, it's often best to switch to 7018 AC. AC rods restrike easily. This is one of the reasons I don't like some of the modern inverter machines..........they can't run AC rods. AC can be your friend when you encounter severe arc blow.

Excalibur generally exhibits somewhat poor starts on occasion. Especially in 3/32 diameter. Better starts, and more heat, can be obtained by using Atom Arc. The ESAB Acclaim is also a fairly good hot running rod.

Optimum performance from these rods is in the higher amp range. 125amps for 1/8, 85-90amps for 3/32. Never be a slave to the dial on the welder...........they all differ. 125amps on one machine might not be 125amps on another machine. Set it so it runs good, forget the numbers.

I don't know the mechanics of it but I've been around two of them and both acted the same way. While I'm not going to gloat like some welding expert but I did make my living in structural fabricating for a few years, just saying that so you know it wasn't my first day welding. I adjust to the job, not the amp scale on the machine, half the old pipeliners I used you couldn't read the amps scale at all. As Jim well discribed the Thunderbolts act like some portion of the volts or amps goes away for a nanno second when you strike an arc and then it comes back as you begin the weld. The issue was especially prevailing when you wanted to weld out of position with 1/8 low hydrogen rod and had the amps turned down to the lower end of the operating range. On the flat I'd just crank it up and travel faster. I've had my Dialarc 250 for a long time and just last summer I had to a small repair weld for a farmer I work for part time and guess what! He had a DC thunderbolt the shop. Granted his 7018 may have been a bit less than bone dry but trying to use it brought back bad memories, LOL.

 

[Loosehandle]

I'm thinking about selling my Miller welder and would like to know if anyone has purchased one & approx price they are selling for . Thanks

Style JE 14..Crank handle on top 225amp​

I've had the exact welder the OP asked about for 35 years, works great for me with 6011 and 6013.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I don't know the mechanics of it but I've been around two of them and both acted the same way. While I'm not going to gloat like some welding expert but I did make my living in structural fabricating for a few years, just saying that so you know it wasn't my first day welding. I adjust to the job, not the amp scale on the machine, half the old pipeliners I used you couldn't read the amps scale at all. As Jim well discribed the Thunderbolts act like some portion of the volts or amps goes away for a nanno second when you strike an arc and then it comes back as you begin the weld. The issue was especially prevailing when you wanted to weld out of position with 1/8 low hydrogen rod and had the amps turned down to the lower end of the operating range. On the flat I'd just crank it up and travel faster. I've had my Dialarc 250 for a long time and just last summer I had to a small repair weld for a farmer I work for part time and guess what! He had a DC thunderbolt the shop. Granted his 7018 may have been a bit less than bone dry but trying to use it brought back bad memories, LOL.

I quit using my Thunder bolt around 1992 because it would stick a rod bad as it got older it got worst. I had to keep my rods in a metal tool box with a light bulb on all the time. I been meaning to pull the old T.B. out and see what's wrong with it I did clean it up well but of no help. It was not always this way something is has gone bad in it.

 

[Janicholson]

I quit using my Thunder bolt around 1992 because it would stick a rod bad as it got older it got worst. I had to keep my rods in a metal tool box with a light bulb on all the time. I been meaning to pull the old T.B. out and see what's wrong with it I did clean it up well but of no help. It was not always this way something is has gone bad in it.

Ours were bad from the get go! Jim

 

[Hobo,NC]

Ours were bad from the get go! Jim

It was my dads welder I used it for 12 years in my shop with no issues, my dad used it till I put it in my shop. The wheel to set the amps became hard to turn I took it apart and cleaned it, it still would stick a rod to the point it became unusable. I may fish it out of its hiding place and ask for advice.

 

[Sberry]

Mine is red but is about as good a machine I ever used for its day. Starts really well. Its hot, I have it in a "loom", work grounded to building/benches and lead extensions for outdoor.

 

[m16ty]

Miller Thunderbolt for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for Miller Thunderbolt at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!

www.ebay.com

Personally, if it works good, I wouldn't sell it. You can't replace it with a decent welder these days.........they're all that inverter crap.

Inverter is they way to go if you can swing the price, but the old transformer machines work fine.

 

[m16ty]

I'm loving my "inverter crap" ~40# MIG/stick machine. I was just using it outside yesterday doing a lot of flux core on 3/16"-1/4" steel. Really like the easy portability and have yet to run into any duty cycle limitations in normal non-production welding. I still love my Synchrowave 250 as well, but at ~500# it's not exactly portable.

I've got a Syncrowave 250 myself and love it also, but if you are doing a lot of welding you can pay for a new inverter machine with electric bill savings alone. That Syncrowave will make your meter spin like a record player when you start getting in the upper amp range, like when welding thick aluminum.

 

[m16ty]

Dunno what rod you're running, but let's say it's 7018............does the machine stick a rod that's brand new?

I've got a Thunderbolt and never had a issue with rods sticking, at least no more than any other machine I've ever ran.

 

[m16ty]

I bought my Thunderbolt new probably 25 years ago for I think $350. I bet I could get quite a bit over my purchase price if I wanted to sell.
They now sell new for around $1,000.