Minneapolis Moline ZAU

[A . M. Aitkins]

Well I bought a new toy today. This is my first experience with a Minneapolis Moline tractor and I have a few questions about it.

When I engage the clutch it's really jerky is there a way to adjust the clutch so Its more of a gradual takeoff rather than jumping when in gear?

The hydraulic pump was removed so do you guys know of any places in central PA that might have one?

What's this base for?

What's these two brackets for? Cultivators?

 

[DPittman]

The clutch issue is something I’ll be watching cause every Z I know of does it. My U and R are smooth. The hydraulic pump can be obtained from bout any Moline scrap yards and they are willing to ship, try the internet first. I’d go to Welters in Missouri. The brackets, don’t know . Good looking machine

 

[A . M. Aitkins]

The clutch issue is something I’ll be watching cause every Z I know of does it. My U and R are smooth. The hydraulic pump can be obtained from bout any Moline scrap yards and they are willing to ship, try the internet first. I’d go to Welters in Missouri. The brackets, don’t know . Good looking machine

Yeah the clutch is really jumpy I hope there is a way to at least make it a little smoother.
I'm still trying to figure out the easiest way to drive this thing. it almost feels easier to stand while driving because of how far front the clutch is.
I also need to paint the wheels and rims.

 

[Rich'sToys]

I think it's common to drive them standing up. I do it on mine, and also on my UTS.
The clutches on both of mine are somewhat jumpy as well. It gets a little easier after you get used to it, but still not perfect.

 

[Ill John]

The bracket on the top/rear of the transmission is the factory bracket used to mount the lifting roll for the hydraulics. The one on the bottom is a factory front mount for their version of a mounted implement. Those on the front sides probably were for a loader.

 

[neverfear]

Well I bought a new toy today. This is my first experience with a Minneapolis Moline tractor and I have a few questions about it.

When I engage the clutch it's really jerky is there a way to adjust the clutch so Its more of a gradual takeoff rather than jumping when in gear?

The hydraulic pump was removed so do you guys know of any places in central PA that might have one?

What's this base for?
View attachment 105952
What's these two brackets for? Cultivators?View attachment 105953

Best way I've found is to reduce rpm's , ease into the load and grab some throttle.

 

[JOCCO]

Well, my boy you bought quite a toy WOW! I would say ILL John knows the brackets' identity. Can't help much on the clutch check adjustment. The pumps do show up on ebay too and it looks like you have the box under the gas tank.

 

[Alan K]

The bracket in the first picture looks like someone welded a pipe and plate on the original lifting roll bracket for a separate control valve.
One place I would check for the "jumpy" clutch is the cross shaft on the right side where the clutch rod connects to the cast iron "arm" (just below the battery end plate) Disengage the clutch, put a small mark on the cast iron arm and one on the shaft, then engage the clutch and see if the marks are still lined up.
My dad's ZA had a jumpy clutch. That is where the problem was on his. The woodruff key and the keyway it sits in gets worn, and sometimes the cast iron arm. I would also inspect the internal clutch parts through the cover plate on the left side.

 

[Alan K]

Forgot to add, the rear wheel appear to be Oliver rims and centers. MM ones were a steel dished rim, same as early JD A's were.

 

[JOCCO]

Forgot to add, the rear wheel appear to be Oliver rims and centers. MM ones were a steel dished rim, same as early JD A's were.

I can see what your saying on that.

 

[A . M. Aitkins]

Forgot to add, the rear wheel appear to be Oliver rims and centers. MM ones were a steel dished rim, same as early JD A's were.

This tractor actually had the correct rims on it before I bought it. But t I think the previous owner pulls tractors so he probably wanted the lighter rims for that. I don't mind since I get the extra weight with the Oliver rims and centers and these rims have much nicer tires then the other ones.

 

[molinegb]

Any hydraulic pump off a R or U G will bolt right on.

 

[MMDEL]

Most of those brackets are for a loader that was on it. I think the pipe stand welded on the rock shaft plate is where he mounted the hyd valve levers for the loader. it is on the left side so he could operate the clutch with his right hand. The bracket on the belly is for an MP corn Planter, but it is not complete. Just remove all of them if you want for looks. I would check what Alan said, also you might grip the clutch lever about half way down or less so you don,t have to move your hand so far and wonder when it is going to engage. Check and make sure the axel shafts are solid in the wheel hubs. The only way your are going to get a cushy feel on the clutch is to split it and replace the small compression springs that separate the clutch plates. A hyd pump for a U is larger than a Z pump, and the lines that go to the hyd box are longer. and I think the return pipe has different bends in it. All in all you have a very good looking tractor!!!!

 

[A . M. Aitkins]

Here's another picture I forgot to post of the dealer tag

 

[A . M. Aitkins]

The serial number is 00608609. also do you guys know if it has the correct color of prairie gold on it ?

 

[JOCCO]

Various prairie gold paint colors are a widely debatable topic. I believe its #2 for that year. I my self thinks it looks good. (ok I am jealous)

 

[Alan K]

From serial number it is a later 1951 model. Yes, as JOCCO mentioned PG #2 is the paint color, which it appears to be.

 

[T.R.K.]

I had that clutch issue on a '53 ZAS. After splitting the tractor, I found that one of the plates in the clutch was cracked.
I am thinking that the clutch plates (when in good shape, not worn out) have a slight taper to them so the outer edge of the lining contacts first. As it wears in, more and more of the lining contacts to the point where it becomes jerky.