Model A disassembly has begun head gasket question happy Boxing Day!

Fixingfarmer

Well-known Member
There was a direction that the head gasket was supposed to be installed on the tractor when it has one metal side posted just a week or two ago I was having trouble finding it and wondered if someone had that info again?? Was just deciding if I clean up the head or pull the block as well. All studs were tight. I don’t think it matters on the new one there’s a direction stamped I had a coolant leak you could see and hear it at startup white puff or two and some labor. it appears to be from the middle of the head gasket between the long stud and the top. Metal side was toward block notably it was the only place that didn’t have copper cote or rtv there was a healthy layer of clear on everything from the carburetor to the valve cover that even covered all of the push rods so it’s good I’m doing this. I wish they made a new A4226R head it looks like it was a used one it’s a different color the rest of the tractor was painted more recently so that seems like not the best sign as well. Maybe someone has a good direction I can take it I have a spare head for the old b ready to go and if I’m going to use them fairly aggressively I like to be ready. The last 3 two cylinders I’ve used the lift table it works pretty slick figured I’d share that as my favorite way to sneak a head out quick with very little effort down through the frame
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John Deere A head gasket. Smooth side to the block. Spray both sides with K-W Copper Coat, cover all, maybe two coats. Let get tacky. Slide on, head next, lead washers, lub threads studs, nuts on, torque. Run tractor long enough to get hot. Tear down rockers and retorque all head nuts. Rockers on, set valves, ready to go.
 
John Deere A head gasket. Smooth side to the block. Spray both sides with K-W Copper Coat, cover all, maybe two coats. Let get tacky. Slide on, head next, lead washers, lub threads studs, nuts on, torque. Run tractor long enough to get hot. Tear down rockers and retorque all head nuts. Rockers on, set valves, ready to go.
Agree.

Next one that I do I might try Permatex Aviation form a gasket on the head gasket. Last one I did I used Copper coat and it's still holding fine, but I remember reading a service bulletin saying to use I think Permtex no 2 or something like that??? Whatever it was the modern version is now the Aviation stuff. Got a '42 A in the shop with the head pulled off right now. I'll have my chance to give it a try.

I've also used Permatex high tack spray a gasket which is similar to the copper coat. I sprayed it on the head gasket for an 8330 with a 9.0 liter that's eventually doomed to fail because they didn't want to fix a low cylinder liner issue. That one's still holding as far as I know.
 
John Deere A head gasket. Smooth side to the block. Spray both sides with K-W Copper Coat, cover all, maybe two coats. Let get tacky. Slide on, head next, lead washers, lub threads studs, nuts on, torque. Run tractor long enough to get hot. Tear down rockers and retorque all head nuts. Rockers on, set valves, ready to go.
I'll probably use 2 coats of copper coat for sure since it was obviously off very recently after the machine shop cleans it up thank you.
 
Agree.

Next one that I do I might try Permatex Aviation form a gasket on the head gasket. Last one I did I used Copper coat and it's still holding fine, but I remember reading a service bulletin saying to use I think Permtex no 2 or something like that??? Whatever it was the modern version is now the Aviation stuff. Got a '42 A in the shop with the head pulled off right now. I'll have my chance to give it a try.

I've also used Permatex high tack spray a gasket which is similar to the copper coat. I sprayed it on the head gasket for an 8330 with a 9.0 liter that's eventually doomed to fail because they didn't want to fix a low cylinder liner issue. That one's still holding as far as I know.
I am a big believer in that aviation gasket maker but ive never seen it used on a head gasket I don't know how the soft set would go with the pressure and heating and expanding and contracting id be a little scared and I think copper coat or anyones product of that nature fully dried would probably be what id use but most of the cork gaskets will get aviation gasket maker of silicone and there sure isn't any reason for the silicone on the carb gasket fresh gasket only you don't want to scrape that off every time you clean the carb. I saw it when I bought it at the start of mowing and since it was running beautifully I ran it. Im wishing now I had stoped but it doesn't look like any damage was done to the cylinder so I got by without it I could see the throttle shaft move about a 1/4 inch when pivoted in the carburetor so I figured if that wasn't enough of a leak to cause an issue for one summer that id leave it be till now. Thanks for the reply good luck on your A!!
 
Yes they are magnafluxing. They understood how it looked like it was recently robbed off something else
 

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