My son put 15w-40 oil in the tranny/hydraulics on AC WD.

[cleddy]

I also believe the clutch is at fault. I have seen them that stripped shaft splines, lost the torsion springs, broke the torsion hub stampings, lost all the friction material from the driven disc, and just worn out. If there is an access hole, or removable plate look there first. Pulling the shifter out and looking past the rails you might see the gears move, or not with it running. Any noise?? Jim

My old wore out WD has trouble shifting with the foot clutch only because it looks like the disk is rusted solid on the spline. Recently when using it a whole layer of the fiber clutch disk came loose and was laying on the ground (missing bottom cover). Now it seems to shift easier?? I think it about time for a split and prober repair????Cleddy

 

[Beatthedrums86]

Nothing to do with the oil, why do think that old tractor needs hytran ? They use gear oil in the trans and diff.

So there’s a lot of discussion about this on the unofficial Alice forum, and over there the overwhelming majority recommend hytran over the original prescribed oil. Very different response here.

 

[ed12345]

You did note that my post was a response to Geo, didn't you? regarding oil vs hyd fluid. And just a general comment that 15w40 is an acceptable hydrualic fluid in most loaders. Not about the tractor movement at all.

Not really - detergent oil tends to foam that could give you issues. Older tractors would use non detergent 20 or 30 wt oil. Newer systems want lighter oil with moisture, anti wear, etc additives. HyTran, hyguard, super udt or even dextron make for better hydraulic fluids that can be used in the transmission.

Sealed hydro units in less expensive lawn tractors don’t have an airspace won’t have the foaming issue. Still 15w40 is too thick for me to use in a hydrostatic drive or hydraulic system

 

[ed12345]

Not really - detergent oil tends to foam that could give you issues. Older tractors would use non detergent 20 or 30 wt oil. Newer systems want lighter oil with moisture, anti wear, etc additives. HyTran, hyguard, super udt or even dextron make for better hydraulic fluids that can be used in the transmission.

Sealed hydro units in less expensive lawn tractors don’t have an airspace won’t have the foaming issue. Still 15w40 is too thick for me to use in a hydrostatic drive or hydraulic system

Should have included that the sealed units have a bladder so the airspace doesn’t touch the oil.

Also using 80/90 used in hydraulic systems has to be rare as that weight will damage most hydraulic systems. Older tractors had separate sealed compartments keeping lighter hydraulic oil from gear oil. Newer tractors use the trans as the resuvor and the change to hydraulic- transmission oils.

IH recommends HyTran as a gear oil replacement. Kubota in the BX front axle recommends UDT or gear oil. I tend to like gear oil in the non-hydraulic areas of the transmission and axles as the thicker oil leaks less.

 

[4wdtom]

I was driving back from the fueling station on my ‘52 AC WD, about to switch the hay spear out for the bush hog, when all of a sudden it just stopped moving. No reverse, forward, nothing. I checked to make sure the hand clutch was engaged, it was, clutch still had the same tension etc. Then I remembered that my son had added a bunch of hytran after we blew the seals in the loader. I went to get the bucket to top it off and realized it was still full, but a bucket of 15w-40 was now nearly empty. I checked the dipstick and sure enough, oil. I’m about to flush the system and put in hytran, but would the oil cause damage? Did I possibly lose the pump? Thanks in advance.

The hydraulic system is separate from the transmission, hand clutch, rear end which uses 90 weight gear oil or straight weight engine oil or "tractor lube". Straight 20 is called for in the hydraulic system or hydraulic oil. The drain for the hyd. system is forward of the PTO gear which is below the main castings and has it's own drain plug. The fill is the dipstick on the left. The transmission/rear end/hand clutch housing has three other drains, one being the PTO gear, the others under the rear end and trans. There are two fill plugs on the left side if I remember right. Two fill plugs because the various sections are connected only by small passages or ball bearings so two fill plugs allows you to fill them without waiting for the oil to run through small openings.

 

[rustred]

So there’s a lot of discussion about this on the unofficial Alice forum, and over there the overwhelming majority recommend hytran over the original prescribed oil. Very different response here.

i dont think they understand what hytran is all about. explain where they are saying to use this oil. in the trans and diff., or the hydraulic's.? sure u can use it in the hydraulics' if you are sharing implements, but with this little old tractor i hardly think so. it is defininitly not needed in the trans or diff. and also when this tractor came out there was no hytan oil. so i would like to know what this prescribed oil is that you are referring to.

 

[showcrop]

So there’s a lot of discussion about this on the unofficial Alice forum, and over there the overwhelming majority recommend hytran over the original prescribed oil. Very different response here.

Over there maybe three have any actual experience, while a hundred others read and parrot.

 

[buickanddeere]

The motor oil is likely wet clutch compatible but check .

 

[wore out]

So there’s a lot of discussion about this on the unofficial Alice forum, and over there the overwhelming majority recommend hytran over the original prescribed oil. Very different response here.

Have you determined what is actually wrong with your tractor yet?