Mysterious Hole in New JD 3010 Water Pump

[kinglouie]

Hi guys. Thanks for all of the priceless help with my 3010 so far. You guys have been advising me on my 3010 cooling system issues and I've ended up with a new pump but I haven't installed it. There's a hole in this new pump that doesn't have threads in it and I don't know what it's for. There are pieces that came with the part and a couple little cup shaped steel pieces might fit in to plug the hole?? but I don't know. I don't need that hole. The pump I took off the 4020 to try used that hole to run heater hose into the cab but looks to have threads in it. I just cut the hose coming out of it short and plugged it. But I won't be using that hole on the pump on the 3010 so I'd like to just plug it but with that hole having no threads I'm kind of baffled Hopefully you guys can get me going.

You guys were right about the side rails and how that loader was mounted on this tractor and that situation is under control for now and I greatly appreciate all the help you guys gave me on that whole problem. I now have an appreciation for the tapered JD bolts used to hold those tractors together. Luckily I have a wealth of those from the 4020.

I'll attach a couple pictures.

Thanks for any advice you guys might provide. Happy Saturday!

 

[MarkB_MI]

I would tap it with an appropriately-sized pipe tap and put a pipe plug in it. If you ever decide to put a cab heater or engine heater on it, you'll be ready to go.

 

[kinglouie]

I would tap it with an appropriately-sized pipe tap and put a pipe plug in it. If you ever decide to put a cab heater or engine heater on it, you'll be ready to go.

I've got a place for the little black plug pictured and the elbow fitting but I don't know what I'm supposed to do with the rest of the stuff. I figured surely some of it is for the mystery hole. I was really hoping to avoid tapping...

 

[Scott 730]

You will likely have extra parts, as the pump is made to fit several applications. The core plugs should be the correct size for that hole. Drive one of them into the unused port.

 

[SkipperII]

Based on what I see, one of the soft plugs is meant to block off the open port. If you had a heater, you would drive in the unthreaded nipple. That is a universal fit kit.

 

[kinglouie]

Believe it or not I've never seen those things before. So I can just drive it straight in as is, no compound or glue or grease or anything?

Thanks for the advice! That's a relief!

 

[kinglouie]

Based on what I see, one of the soft plugs is meant to block off the open port. If you had a heater, you would drive in the unthreaded nipple. That is a universal fit kit.

Yeah thanks. I'm thinking I'll probably drive in the threaded one and then figure out how to cap it off or plug it. I'll have more future options of I put the threaded one in. Thanks for the reply!

 

[wore out]

I've got a place for the little black plug pictured and the elbow fitting but I don't know what I'm supposed to do with the rest of the stuff. I figured surely some of it is for the mystery hole. I was really hoping to avoid tapping...

"I don't know what I'm supposed to do with the rest of the stuff"

The routing of the coolant bypass changed over the years, possibly a difference between gas an diesel, as well, and some of the fittings including the elbow may be related to the coolant connections needed to the vaporizer on LP gas models.

So, as the others said, tap and plug the unused port, or use one of the drive-in "cup plugs", and put the other plugs aside for a project one may fit in the future.

If using the drive-in plug, slather a bit of Loctite or Permatex around the interior of the port to be SURE you don't wind up with an annoying little leak there.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

Yeah thanks. I'm thinking I'll probably drive in the threaded one and then figure out how to cap it off or plug it. I'll have more future options of I put the threaded one in. Thanks for the reply!

Don't drive in the threaded one, use the welch plug, and put sealant around it. Works like a freeze plug on the engine block does. Mark.

 

[kinglouie]

"I don't know what I'm supposed to do with the rest of the stuff"

The routing of the coolant bypass changed over the years, possibly a difference between gas an diesel, as well, and some of the fittings including the elbow may be related to the coolant connections needed to the vaporizer on LP gas models.

So, as the others said, tap and plug the unused port, or use one of the drive-in "cup plugs", and put the other plugs aside for a project one may fit in the future.

If using the drive-in plug, slather a bit of Loctite or Permatex around the interior of the port to be SURE you don't wind up with an annoying little leak there.

Thanks for the reply. What do you think of the idea of putting the treaded one in? I suppose regardless of what I drive in I should loctite it in and that's a big part of what I was wondering so that's good information and advice. I'm not sure if I have loctite and I'm wondering if could use some blue gasket forming compound that I know for certain I have (it's what I used to put the 4010 pump on to try it).

 

[kinglouie]

Don't drive in the threaded one, use the welch plug, and put sealant around it. Works like a freeze plug on the engine block does. Mark.

Do you think some of the blue gasket forming compound would do the trick. Thanks for the reply!

 

[MARK ROBKE]

Do you think some of the blue gasket forming compound would do the trick. Thanks for the reply!

Blue might work, but I always use Permatex Ultra -color of choice - usually grey silicone. It's a higher grade/quality than blue-rated for higher temps and various liquids. Some people like regular Permatex, but it gets hard when it dries, whereas the silicone stays soft and still sticks like glue. Mark.

 

[wore out]

Thanks for the reply. What do you think of the idea of putting the treaded one in? I suppose regardless of what I drive in I should loctite it in and that's a big part of what I was wondering so that's good information and advice. I'm not sure if I have loctite and I'm wondering if could use some blue gasket forming compound that I know for certain I have (it's what I used to put the 4010 pump on to try it).

You can't use the threaded plug unless you are able to tap matching pipe threads in the unused port.

Personally, I'd use a hardening sealant, I'm not against silicone for many things, but I don't think this is the place for it.

I'm eagerly awaiting your report as to what you see for coolant movement after you complete this project and start it up, vs. with the old pumps.

 

[kinglouie]

You can't use the threaded plug unless you are able to tap matching pipe threads in the unused port.

Personally, I'd use a hardening sealant, I'm not against silicone for many things, but I don't think this is the place for it.

I'm eagerly awaiting your report as to what you see for coolant movement after you complete this project and start it up, vs. with the old pumps.

I figure I'll tap a welch plug in, like Mark suggested above. And I'll for sure let you know how it goes. My brain will explode if that fluid remains sitting still after this install!!!

It turns out I was thinking about the threaded fitting a dumb way before, I get what's it about now.

Thanks for the reply and all the replies!! I'm going out right now to get 'er done...

 

[matthies]

I use Permatex #2 on all water sealing areas, stays soft, not as slick as a silicone so your gasket doesn't push out. I would use the welch plug as they are easily removed. Just remember were you keep the extra fittings. The smooth pipe nipple is used a lot on your 3010/4020 type tractors and need to be replaced sooner or later.

 

[NDIHC]

The part to the lower rigjt of the second picture appears to be a threaded port. That's where one of the threaded fittings would go, depending on application. The unthreaded hole would take either the drive-in hose fitting or if not used, a soft plug/frost plug/ freeze plug/core plug/expansion plug/welch plug...whatever you want to call it. For the hose fitting I usually use Loctite green sleeve retainer. If I use a plug I usually use Permatex Ultra Copper or Ultra Blue or Ultra Grey. Whichever I have around. I use permatex on the plug in case I ever want to take it out to put in a hose fitting. When I use a hose fitting, chances are very slim that I'd ever need to take it out so I use the sleeve retainer on those.

 

[kinglouie]

I use Permatex #2 on all water sealing areas, stays soft, not as slick as a silicone so your gasket doesn't push out. I would use the welch plug as they are easily removed. Just remember were you keep the extra fittings. The smooth pipe nipple is used a lot on your 3010/4020 type tractors and need to be replaced sooner or later.

Hi Matthies. Happy Saturday! Hey, where does the 3010 use that smooth pipe nipple? Somewhere on the pump (or an option to insert into the mystery hole)? But yeah, I'm going to try the welch plug.

My pump arrived with a plate attached to the back. Both the 3010 and 4010 used that plate so I'll keep it on. It's held by one hex key bolt. Do you know if from the factory they would have put it together with sealant between the pump and that plate or should I remove it and prep it for installation? They sent a new gasket for the whole thing, of course.

See picture below.

Thanks,
Jay

Thanks,
Jay

 

[kinglouie]

The part to the lower rigjt of the second picture appears to be a threaded port. That's where one of the threaded fittings would go, depending on application. The unthreaded hole would take either the drive-in hose fitting or if not used, a soft plug/frost plug/ freeze plug/core plug/expansion plug...whatever you want to call it. For the hose fitting I usually use Loctite green sleeve retainer. If I use a plug I usually use Permatex Ultra Copper or Ultra Blue or Ultra Grey. Whichever I have around. I use permatex on the plug in case I ever want to take it out to put in a hose fitting. When I use a hose fitting, chances are very slim that I'd ever need to take it out so I use the sleeve retainer on those.

Hey thanks for taking the time in your Saturday for me. I'll use my Permatex Blue then. That's what I have around.

Good thing for you guys,
Jay

 

[kinglouie]

You can't use the threaded plug unless you are able to tap matching pipe threads in the unused port.

Personally, I'd use a hardening sealant, I'm not against silicone for many things, but I don't think this is the place for it.

I'm eagerly awaiting your report as to what you see for coolant movement after you complete this project and start it up, vs. with the old pumps.

Hi Wore Out. Hey guess what? It's still the same!!! Yep, I don't see any fluid moving at all. I'm starting a new thread about it. Hopefully I'll see you there...

 

[Jim.ME]

Does that radiator have a baffle in it so that you can't see the opening of the neck, that the top hose hooks to, inside the radiator? It might be circulating, and you can't see it. If the tractor is just setting there idling it could take quite a while to feel much temperature change in the radiator, even with flow through it.

Is thermostat in it or out at present? If it is out, I would put it in and run the engine to warm it up. Monitor (with a handheld 'temp gun") the thermostat housing and the top of the radiator as the engine warms. Once you see the temperature rise at the top of the radiator monitor down the core to see if the flow spreads, follows a narrow path, or doesn't go anywhere.

I may have missed it but looking back at your posts on this I see:

You don't have a working temp gauge, and you haven't worked it, so you don't know if it overheats. Replace the temperature gauge now, so you have something to tell engine temperature.

You mentioned the cooling system is full of sludge. If the radiator is full of sludge there may not be a path for coolant to flow down through the radiator. Unhook the radiator hoses from the engine and use other hoses to connect a garden hose to the bottom radiator outlet and another to route what may come out the top, away from the tractor. Try running some water backwards through the radiator.

If you know the cooling system is full of sludge, take the water pump off and back flush the block from the block drain, out the water pump opening.

They make cooling system flush guns that use a combination of water and shop air to flush blocks, radiators and heater cores.

Just some thoughts