Need help with hydraulic oil change on Deere 2010

[TheBrokenFarmer]

Been changing the hydraulic fluid on my Deere 2010 RU SN 65635. What came out was about 10 gallons of watery milky sludge oil when I took the 8 inch long filter out and the two drain bolts.

I thought I’d add it in to the 3 or 4 inch diameter inspection port, about even with the brakes on the right hand side of the tractor. What I think is the conventional hydraulic fill port has what looks like a high pressure 90 degree fitting on it and this seemed easier.

It only took about 4 gallons before it reached the level of the port. I expected a whole lot more.

Was the not an acceptable place to refill at and does anyone know what’s going on?

Lastly, there is this metal tab under the machine, near the forward drain plug that is dripping out the new fluid. What is this thing?

The fluid I’m using it the universal traveler stuff from TSC.

Thanks in advance

Inspection port in front and high pressure 90 behind.

And

Spinning metal tab that’s dripping ahead of the forward drain bolt.

John

 

[TheBrokenFarmer]

Note: I put in a new filter before adding the new fluid.

 

[wore out]

Been changing the hydraulic fluid on my Deere 2010 RU SN 65635. What came out was about 10 gallons of watery milky sludge oil when I took the 8 inch long filter out and the two drain bolts.

I thought I’d add it in to the 3 or 4 inch diameter inspection port, about even with the brakes on the right hand side of the tractor. What I think is the conventional hydraulic fill port has what looks like a high pressure 90 degree fitting on it and this seemed easier.

It only took about 4 gallons before it reached the level of the port. I expected a whole lot more.

Was the not an acceptable place to refill at and does anyone know what’s going on?

Lastly, there is this metal tab under the machine, near the forward drain plug that is dripping out the new fluid. What is this thing?

The fluid I’m using it the universal traveler stuff from TSC.

Thanks in advance
View attachment 112412
Inspection port in front and high pressure 90 behind.

And

View attachment 112413
Spinning metal tab that’s dripping ahead of the forward drain bolt.

John

You've filled the (supposed to be "dry") clutch housing ahead of the transmission to the point it is overflowing!

Check plug is where the capped fitting is the level check port (someone must have used it a a hydraulic return port)..

Oil fill is back by the seat, IIRC.

There's a cotter key in the bottom of the "dry" clutch housing that acts as a "jiggle pin" to keep the drain hole open, which is slowly letting your misplaced oil drain out.

You can view/download/print an Operator's Manual @ DeereTechpubs/Equipment Publications which will be VERY helpful in your quest to service/maintain your tractor for FREE, It takes a little finesse with the menus to get the free download vs. the $$$ print or CD versions, but it's there once you figure it out. You can PURCHASE the Parts Catalog or the Tech Manual there, as well, or view the Parts Catalog @ jdparts com.

Good Luck!

 

[Jim.ME]

That would look like you just filled the clutch housing with oil.

That would be what is often called a "jiggle pin". It is a cotter pin installed loosely in a drain/weep hole to keep the hole open. In this case that hole is to let and oil from the engine rear main seal or a leaking seal at the front of the transmission to drain out and not fill the area and ruin the engine clutch.

Do you have a copy of the Operator's Manual for your 2010? It has info on most common field maintenance tasks. If you don't have a copy you can download a free copy from the John Deere Ag & Turf Bookstore.

JD Ag & Turf Bookstore

Click on Equipment Publications to go to the search page. Type 2010 in the box beside Model Search. then search. You should get a list of about 22 machines with 2010 somewhere in their title. Look at the tractors, you will need to check them out to find the one that best matches your tractor, your serial number may be needed in some cases. When you find the one you want, click on the download icon to the right of the manual title and it will download a copy to your device which you can save and use to print from as you want. They charge for the hard copies of the manual, the download is free.

 

[TheBrokenFarmer]

Thanks for the help. I pumped the oil out of the clutch house. Oops. Should I do any type of cleaning of the clutch housing beyond just taking out what I put in? At least everything in there will be well lubricated?

 

[Janicholson]

The clutch is likely saturated with hydraulic oil. it will not be happy. It may slip on small loads and may glaze as the oil gets burned off. You may get lucky. But splitting the tractor may be in your future to replace the clutch driven disc, and to degrease/deoil the pressure plate. Jim

 

[Jim.ME]

Well lubricated and a dry engine clutch do not belong together. It may have seen too much oil and will need to be replaced, and the housing and flywheel cleaned.

If anything, I would get a case of Brake Cleaner, take the inspection plate off the bottom and wash the pressure plate and the area off as best I could. That carries some risk of adding to the contamination. Might help, might make it worse.

 

[TheBrokenFarmer]

This is less than great news.

What might be the best options for degreasing everything inside that port.

Case of brake cleaner makes sense but I’m not sure how much I can be sure to hit.

Gasoline flush?

Engine degreaser and water wash?

Both?

Any advice appreciated… the tractor hasn’t moved or been ran so maybe there is some hope.

 

[Janicholson]

This is less than great news.

What might be the best options for degreasing everything inside that port.

Case of brake cleaner makes sense but I’m not sure how much I can be sure to hit.

Gasoline flush?

Engine degreaser and water wash?

Both?

Any advice appreciated… the tractor hasn’t moved or been ran so maybe there is some hope.

I do not know the size of the access panel mentioned above. if the pressure plate can be loosened shch that the bolts are nearly out, and the system is sprayed down with brake clean spray, (maybe 2 or 3 cans) and residual oil flushed from the case, it might work. The disc likely has slots in it allowing dust to be extracted, but they also let oil get into the disc easily. Be very careful to protect yourself from fumes or spatter. the brain cells you loose are not growing back. Jim

 

[Fixingfarmer]

You can probably hit quite a bit of it with the brake cleaner if you bump the engine over a couple times. The good news is the brake cleaner will follow out that hole faster than the oil. As long as you didn’t try to start it you should have only soaked a quarter of it so aim down with the brake cleaner to start with

I think in this case the correct oil adding location is actually behind the seat middle top of diff should be a large port

 

[Janicholson]

You can probably hit quite a bit of it with the brake cleaner if you bump the engine over a couple times. The good news is the brake cleaner will follow out that hole faster than the oil. As long as you didn’t try to start it you should have only soaked a quarter of it so aim down with the brake cleaner to start with

I think in this case the correct oil adding location is actually behind the seat middle top of diff should be a large port

With respect. Do this after the first cleaning, or gravity will pull oil into places it might not be without turning. Jim

 

[Tx Jim]

Note: I put in a new filter before adding the new fluid.

JD 2010 hyd screen(filter) was designed to be cleaned & re-used not changed unless damaged. I agree to using brake cleaner sprayed in clutch housing to help remove hyd oil from traction clutch & PP.

 

[caterpillar guy]

If you can get to the side/edge of the clutch disc or inside of the pressure plate a bit , After first initial cleaning I would try to spray into the clutch disc area with the brake clean with the pedal down it would allow the cleaner to get in better and help flush it out. Could also use some purple power mixed sprayed in there with the water with bottom cover off it should run right out . then give the brake clean a go so it washes out the residual water from the purple power. Thus saving some cost on the brake cleaner. Though either is cheaper and easier than splitting. a mist spray of the purple power would help with degreasing the housing spray it on then let set a few minutes and wash out then again use the brake cleaner to flush out the residual water left in there once cleaned out and transmission is full of oil again go run it to get warmed up and final dry before anything wants to get set up from possible rusting.

 

[cjunrau]

This is less than great news.

What might be the best options for degreasing everything inside that port.

Case of brake cleaner makes sense but I’m not sure how much I can be sure to hit.

Gasoline flush?

Engine degreaser and water wash?

Both?

Any advice appreciated… the tractor hasn’t moved or been ran so maybe there is some hope.

Air blower that sucks up gas and wash with gas. I would even plug the bottom hole and fill with gas then drain and then wash. If you never moved it or started it I think that would work very well. Let the gas sit in there with a blower nozzle in as far as you can and blow air in to move the gas around. 4 gallons of gas is a lot cheaper than a split. even do it twice.

 

[cjunrau]

Air blower that sucks up gas and wash with gas. I would even plug the bottom hole and fill with gas then drain and then wash. If you never moved it or started it I think that would work very well. Let the gas sit in there with a blower nozzle in as far as you can and blow air in to move the gas around. 4 gallons of gas is a lot cheaper than a split. even do it twice.

Just to ad you are not the first to do that. I had some one do it and I washed it with gas and it worked out fine.

 

[TheBrokenFarmer]

Thanks everyone. I filled it with two gallons of purple power and let it slowly drain out the pin on the bottom. I’m going to do it again here shortly. I will then do a third flush with diesel. Once I get that drained out I will spray brake cleaner everywhere I can reach.

 

[300jk]

Thanks everyone. I filled it with two gallons of purple power and let it slowly drain out the pin on the bottom. I’m going to do it again here shortly. I will then do a third flush with diesel. Once I get that drained out I will spray brake cleaner everywhere I can reach.

You do not want to use diesel. Diesel fuel is oily. Can try gas. Using diesel would be a good way to make sure the whole disc is oily if not already.

 

[DRussell]

You do not want to use diesel. Diesel fuel is oily. Can try gas. Using diesel would be a good way to make sure the whole disc is oily if not already.

Agree, do not use diesel fuel.

 

[chvet73]

Definitely no on the diesel.

 

[TheBrokenFarmer]

Hi everyone. I think I’m out of the woods and it’s working again.

I did the purple power twice. Then I rinsed it out with water.

I filled it with diesel fuel and drained it to get all the water out. I didn’t see the messages to not do that until just now. It’s easy enough to do another flush so I’ll do one more with some gas.

Lastly I sprayed two cans of brake cleaner on everything I could see from the 3 inch port. I did this will turning the motor over so I got everything I could see from all sides.

I drove it around my property and it feels fine. I don’t plow with it or work it very hard. I mostly use it just to brush hog (mow) my lawn.

I put it in higher gear and lugged it with low speed/throttle up a small hill. It didn’t slip so I think it’s probably ok.

I just want to say thank you to everyone who helped with advice and who refrained from making me feel too stupid. I should have read the manual and didn’t so I will do better next time.

I will post at least one more update letting everyone know if it’s ok or not. Hopefully someone else will see this thread in the future if they make a similar mistake. I know I’m not the first nor last person to do this.