Need welding advice on broken plow part

Charlie M

Well-known Member
I found this tonight on my JD plows when I brought them up to the shop to change plow shares. Don't know how long its been broke but I think I would have seen it last time I used them when I went to grease the fitting thats right there. I need to decide if I can weld it or have to take it somewhere. I have a stick welder but not the greatest welder around. If I try it is it possible I will run into enough cast to make welding it tougher than normal steel? I think the plow is a 55H model which I'm thinking is 1950's or so. Plow originally had Syracuse bottoms if that helps date it. If you don't think it will pose a problem for me to try what rod do you recommend?
 
I'll try it again. I saw the picture in the preview so don't know what happened. This is only my 2nd time trying to post a picture on this new software. JD plow.jpg
 
I'll try it again. I saw the picture in the preview so don't know what happened. This is only my 2nd time trying to post a picture on this new software.View attachment 83970
Would think it is cast steel. Weld it with 7018 after cleaning. Clean to shiny metal. “V” out the broken area. OR you could take a 3/8 inch think steel plate and shape it to fit over the piece and drill holes to match the 3 bolts in the part. Just make sure plate fits tight against the part.
 
I'm going to try welding it and if it doesn't work I'll end up putting a plate or strap on it. I'd like to weld it if possible. Info on the type of rod to use is very helpful.
 
I found this tonight on my JD plows when I brought them up to the shop to change plow shares. Don't know how long its been broke but I think I would have seen it last time I used them when I went to grease the fitting thats right there. I need to decide if I can weld it or have to take it somewhere. I have a stick welder but not the greatest welder around. If I try it is it possible I will run into enough cast to make welding it tougher than normal steel? I think the plow is a 55H model which I'm thinking is 1950's or so. Plow originally had Syracuse bottoms if that helps date it. If you don't think it will pose a problem for me to try what rod do you recommend?
that looks like a cast part. so you betetr remove that piece and get it all v'd out then go and by some cast rod and give her a go. its not a job for a beginner !
 
that looks like a cast part. so you betetr remove that piece and get it all v'd out then go and by some cast rod and give her a go. its not a job for a beginner !
Needs to look up “spark test” to help decide if cast steel or not. I would be surprised if it is not cast steel.
 
Needs to look up “spark test” to help decide if cast steel or not. I would be surprised if it is not cast steel.
i dont need a spark test to tell cast. as them parts are cast i will further empathize.
 
i dont need a spark test to tell cast. as them parts are cast i will further empathize.
Since it is on the tailwheel i would be inclined to think it was cast steel. Could weld with nickel or 7018. Would v out and clamp both side to flat surface. Then preheat to around 800. Bury in sand or such and allow to cool slowly. Otherwise i would simply take some flat stock and some schedule 40 pipe and build the pice from scratch.
 
Since it is on the tailwheel i would be inclined to think it was cast steel. Could weld with nickel or 7018. Would v out and clamp both side to flat surface. Then preheat to around 800. Bury in sand or such and allow to cool slowly. Otherwise i would simply take some flat stock and some schedule 40 pipe and build the pice from scratch.
i would not even do that , just get some cast rod and go to it. just dont weld it all at once. the older guys than me would braze that. its getting to be unheard of already. it not a critical piece.
 
I found this tonight on my JD plows when I brought them up to the shop to change plow shares. Don't know how long its been broke but I think I would have seen it last time I used them when I went to grease the fitting thats right there. I need to decide if I can weld it or have to take it somewhere. I have a stick welder but not the greatest welder around. If I try it is it possible I will run into enough cast to make welding it tougher than normal steel? I think the plow is a 55H model which I'm thinking is 1950's or so. Plow originally had Syracuse bottoms if that helps date it. If you don't think it will pose a problem for me to try what rod do you recommend?
Given the era in which the plow was made and the type of part it's reasonable to assume it's cast iron, IMHO.

An alternative to welding it would be to find a good used casting.

There's a guy or two on here that have used DEERE plow parts for sale reasonably, hopefully someone will come forward.

Or, try GOOGLING the number on the casting.
 
You have absolutely no idea whether it's cast steel, cast iron, or semi steel(a form of cast iron). Never assume/guess.

Spark tests are fine for what they are I guess. A more accurate test is drilling a small hole, and observing what you get. If you get chips, it's likely steel. If you get a powdery looking substance,...........it's likely cast iron.

A lower % Ni rod is suitable for cast iron repair work that doesn't require machining. You don't need Ni99. Ni55 will do, and it's cheaper.

If it's cast steel, any decent lo-hy rod will suffice. Due to the large mass, lo-hy is recommended. 7018.

Preheat preheat preheat preheat................................ Heavy weldments will crack if you don't preheat. Preheating slows the cooling rate, and helps prevent cold cracking. Cover it in a welding blanket when done welding, to further slow the cool rate. 400* is a good preheat temp.

Try for a near NEAR full pen weld. You need to leave a reasonable land for alignment of the pieces. Do NOT grind the land completely out. Double bevel if you can..........bevel from both sides.

Once you start to weld, keep at it till done. Weld one side, then weld the other side...........keep this sequence going till you finish out.

You can do theees!!

IMHO of course.
 
vise repair10.jpg


This is what I mean by a "healthy" land. Enough so's that you can get the thing aligned properly for welding. This secures your proper dimensions.

vise repair15.jpg


vise repair16.jpg


If it is cast iron, like the above..................................... Don't expect those Ni rods to run nice. I'm using Ni99 here because it's what I had on hand. It will run like bubblegum. Don't attempt to run it hot to smooth it out. Follow the instructions from the manufacturer. These rods run at relatively low amps.
 
Advice is cheap........................What about the proof of the pudding?

pivot roller559.jpg


The ol' gurl is doing well in her second life. Took a bit of abuse driving the bearings out, and other work since. The old vises were made well, not like the crap you see today.
 
A word about cast iron, and the welding process.

Cast iron has a ton of carbon in it, unlike mild steel. So...............it's not amenable to welding. The carbon mixes with the filler metal, and makes for a brittle weld.

Ni rods are low penetration rods, and the Nickel doesn't mix well with the parent metal. Less admixture, less carbon in the weld. If you listen to the Internet Warriors who claim to weld cast iron with 7018, or some MIG process...............you're listening to liars...........maybe just ignorant at best.

If anyone out there is really interested in learning the welding process(all processes), I recommend picking up a copy of the Bible.

The Lincoln Procedure Handbook of Arc Welding. Get used ones cheap. It should reside on your bookshelf right next to Machinery's.
 

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