Need Workshop Ideas! Taking down Storage Shed and Building Bigger!

[kencombs]

If you are dead set on adding on the existing slab, be sure to drill the edge and pin it to the new. That will keep them form separating either vertically or horizontally. Someone mentioned a steel rail which would be nice, but at a minimum add a large wood beam for lifting.

Roll up doors are nice as light placement is more flexible, but air sealing at the top is difficult. and there is normally some leakage through the door seams. The latter can be helped with an add-on bubble foil sheet.

High windows and/or skylights are nice. Work for light and ventilation. Big exhaust fan if doing any painting or welding.

 

[Farmall m farmer]

I would build it tall enough to add a loft to store all you tractor parts stuff you don’t use very often and a separate room for your work bench drill press stuff like that I would pour a new slap and put the existing one out in front of the door for a door I’ve never had one but the hydraulic lift doors look nice so you could work under it in the summer

 

[DeltaRed]

Leave the current shed and incorporate it into the new.The little 'room' is perfect for a small bench,tool boxes and storage. Keeps a lot of stuff off the floor of the big shop. I did that.The little(10x12) has a work bench,bolt bins drill press and otherthings that keeps some of the clutter out of the big shop.

 

[mechanicfred]

Beer refrigerator for neighbors and son in laws, couple chairs and height! Here’s mine, hot water parts washer, blast cabinet, car lift you can use for more than cars and overhead cranes. I’m not getting any younger!

 

[cjunrau]

Finally getting to build me a real workshop. It isn't gonna be anything real big but big enough and more than I've ever had from scratch. Will be wood construction and want it big enough to hold an Allis D-17 tractor, shut the doors and be able to work on and walk around. Also thinking of having a second working room with a wall and walk through door so I can paint a small tractor like a Farmall Cub or paint tractor parts in it if needed. I have many old tractors, mostly Farmall Cub, Super A, and 140 and plan on restoring 2-3 a year; so those should fit easily.

Help me come up with some things to plan for that I would want/need. I would LOVE to hear your ideas. Here is a list of things I've thought of that are a MUST:

• Painted concrete floor for easy cleanup/no stains & so small tractors can be split easily with floor jack.
• Mini-Split HVAC (I already have this to use)
• Good Lighting with exterior flood lights
• Indoor & Outdoor Plugs
• Outlet in ceiling corner to mount a fan or anything else.
• Spray Foam Insulation and Fiberglass Insulation (I have some of the fiberglass already and have a spray foam guy to use)
• Concrete pad in front of building about 6 foot??
• Work bench the length of one side in each room with hide-a-way bench that will pivot & roll out 90 degrees when needed.
• Water line for a spigot & sink, but that would require burying a water line about 100-120 feet.
• Room enough for a sand blast cabinet, tool boxes, storage shelves, storage cabinets.
• Electrical Breaker panel (have electrician doing the work)
• Plug for Mig Wire Welder
• Plug for my 30 gal air compressor & plan for a 60 or 80 gal in future.
• Building Design that is pleasing to fit in with my house (hardy board exterior), but allows for maximum height and ceiling storage space if I spray foam the inside of the roof. I have a carpenter friend building the shop.

Attached are some not-so-great photos of the current shed I will be taking down, and adding to the concrete slab that is there. It is a 12 ft. by 13 ft. shed and I have about 10-12 foot on either side to add on, about 10-12 foot at the front extra, and have about 7 foot to the rear extra.

View attachment 90876View attachment 90877

Could plan to put a steel I-beam monorail for splitting and lifting too. Just a thought

For door I would look into those doors that lift up with the motor in the door. They fold in the middle and the middle goes out as it lifts. Doesn’t block the light inside when door is open. Also gives a bit of a canopy outside while open.
I don’t like flat floors as they never stay flat anyway. I like good slope with centre trench drain. Floor sloped one way and drain on outer edge or sloped to the middle. 1/4 inch crack is what the drain has.
I like a pit to change oil and work on cars but a lift is just as good and maybe better.

 

[mjsnodgrass]

My neighbor had a shed delivered the other day $4500. I would sell your shed, not take it down.
I posted a pic of a neighbor getting a shed delivered. Find someone to move your shed. They are worth a lot.
In 2019 I built a 30x40x14 pole barn for $16400. I use my Kubota as my elevator to the loft. I recommend windows under the eves. Ridge vent ,, eve vents and 6 inch concrete floors with wire, not fiberglass in concrete. View attachment 90986
You can never have too big of a shop.
Go taller means you can add a loft.View attachment 90982View attachment 90984View attachment 90985

you are a tough guy. there does not appear to be any insulation in that building. how do you keep it above freezing in the winter when working out there?

 

[RTR]

What about building size? Say I have a Farmall 140 or the Allis D17. How tall does it have to be if I were to drive either in there?

 

[Blackhole49]

Finally getting to build me a real workshop. It isn't gonna be anything real big but big enough and more than I've ever had from scratch. Will be wood construction and want it big enough to hold an Allis D-17 tractor, shut the doors and be able to work on and walk around. Also thinking of having a second working room with a wall and walk through door so I can paint a small tractor like a Farmall Cub or paint tractor parts in it if needed. I have many old tractors, mostly Farmall Cub, Super A, and 140 and plan on restoring 2-3 a year; so those should fit easily.

Help me come up with some things to plan for that I would want/need. I would LOVE to hear your ideas. Here is a list of things I've thought of that are a MUST:

• Painted concrete floor for easy cleanup/no stains & so small tractors can be split easily with floor jack.
• Mini-Split HVAC (I already have this to use)
• Good Lighting with exterior flood lights
• Indoor & Outdoor Plugs
• Outlet in ceiling corner to mount a fan or anything else.
• Spray Foam Insulation and Fiberglass Insulation (I have some of the fiberglass already and have a spray foam guy to use)
• Concrete pad in front of building about 6 foot??
• Work bench the length of one side in each room with hide-a-way bench that will pivot & roll out 90 degrees when needed.
• Water line for a spigot & sink, but that would require burying a water line about 100-120 feet.
• Room enough for a sand blast cabinet, tool boxes, storage shelves, storage cabinets.
• Electrical Breaker panel (have electrician doing the work)
• Plug for Mig Wire Welder
• Plug for my 30 gal air compressor & plan for a 60 or 80 gal in future.
• Building Design that is pleasing to fit in with my house (hardy board exterior), but allows for maximum height and ceiling storage space if I spray foam the inside of the roof. I have a carpenter friend building the shop.

Attached are some not-so-great photos of the current shed I will be taking down, and adding to the concrete slab that is there. It is a 12 ft. by 13 ft. shed and I have about 10-12 foot on either side to add on, about 10-12 foot at the front extra, and have about 7 foot to the rear extra.

View attachment 90876View attachment 90877

My take: When you say "wood construction" I assume you mean stick built 16" on center. You get more bang for your buck (bigger) in a pole building and can do everything you mentioned. X2 on as big as your property and budget will allow. It's better and cheaper to stretch it now. I would never tear down the existing shed unless it is 100% in the way and can't be moved.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Could plan to put a steel I-beam monorail for splitting and lifting too. Just a thought

RTR
There are 2 places in Indiana that sell pole barn and they have crews of Amish to install them. Grabber Post and DC metals. Both are in Davis county.
It took 2 days for DC metals to put mine up. I hired a professional concert finisher to put the floor down after the barn was up. Keeping the sun off the concrete slows down the curring. Zero cracking.
Look for someone who sells pole barns.
I didn't use Menards. Inferior materials.
And I cost more.

 

[NoDakInMN]

If your winters are cold at all, I strongly recommend hydronic floor heat with an electric boiler. Check with your power company for off peak rates and rebates. You can set it so the floor heat keeps it at 55 to 60 degrees and then use your split system heat pump to raise the temp up to where you want it for working. As the floor heat is radiant, it will warm the equipment and tools plus you won't have spilt water freezing to the floor and cold feet.

Additionally, you will never regret putting in floor drains.

10' side walls you would not regret either.

 

[RTR]

My take: When you say "wood construction" I assume you mean stick built 16" on center. You get more bang for your buck (bigger) in a pole building and can do everything you mentioned. X2 on as big as your property and budget will allow. It's better and cheaper to stretch it now. I would never tear down the existing shed unless it is 100% in the way and can't be moved.

It’s not much more than some 2x4 walls with a roof. It doesn’t even have more than 4 roof joists. It’s only a 12 ft X 13 ft. Needs to come down so the bigger shop isn’t hodge-podged on

 

[tim s]

I disagree on putting floor drains in,,I have been involved in setting up several shops,, and have worked in many farm shops when I worked off a truck,,flat floors except a slight slope near the entry door (to let snow and ice melt off and get away,in cold areas) When your trying to split or join a tractor the smallest slope works against you,,if you drop a tool or bolt,, thats where it will roll to,,"IF" you need to deal with the EPA,, there will be more questions asked about where that drain goes to than you will be able to correctly answer.

 

[Buffalo Pete]

Wood construction? Put the building up on at least one course of concrete blocks. Keeps it that much farther away from wet grass/soil. Also, any welding going on, sparks run up to the blocks, not wood sills. 110v outlets at 50" of the floor, so that any 4x8 sheets stored along the wall don't obstruct them. 110v outlets every 3-4' along the wall. Nice to have all the machines plugged in all the time, rather than constantly plugging stuff in. Carefully evaluate your electrical needs today, and tomorrow. Size the service accordingly. Regarding outlets & number of circuits, unless you plan on having multiple people running multiple machines, you don't need a lot of circuits. Also........if you have young kids, consider creating a master switch to kill all the outlets mounted up high. Keeps little fingers from pushing buttons while you are not there. Lastly......have you investigated local building codes? Set back? Maximum foot print? Maximum height?

 

[Hobo,NC]

Finally getting to build me a real workshop. It isn't gonna be anything real big but big enough and more than I've ever had from scratch. Will be wood construction and want it big enough to hold an Allis D-17 tractor, shut the doors and be able to work on and walk around. Also thinking of having a second working room with a wall and walk through door so I can paint a small tractor like a Farmall Cub or paint tractor parts in it if needed. I have many old tractors, mostly Farmall Cub, Super A, and 140 and plan on restoring 2-3 a year; so those should fit easily.

Help me come up with some things to plan for that I would want/need. I would LOVE to hear your ideas. Here is a list of things I've thought of that are a MUST:

• Painted concrete floor for easy cleanup/no stains & so small tractors can be split easily with floor jack.
• Mini-Split HVAC (I already have this to use)
• Good Lighting with exterior flood lights
• Indoor & Outdoor Plugs
• Outlet in ceiling corner to mount a fan or anything else.
• Spray Foam Insulation and Fiberglass Insulation (I have some of the fiberglass already and have a spray foam guy to use)
• Concrete pad in front of building about 6 foot??
• Work bench the length of one side in each room with hide-a-way bench that will pivot & roll out 90 degrees when needed.
• Water line for a spigot & sink, but that would require burying a water line about 100-120 feet.
• Room enough for a sand blast cabinet, tool boxes, storage shelves, storage cabinets.
• Electrical Breaker panel (have electrician doing the work)
• Plug for Mig Wire Welder
• Plug for my 30 gal air compressor & plan for a 60 or 80 gal in future.
• Building Design that is pleasing to fit in with my house (hardy board exterior), but allows for maximum height and ceiling storage space if I spray foam the inside of the roof. I have a carpenter friend building the shop.

Attached are some not-so-great photos of the current shed I will be taking down, and adding to the concrete slab that is there. It is a 12 ft. by 13 ft. shed and I have about 10-12 foot on either side to add on, about 10-12 foot at the front extra, and have about 7 foot to the rear extra.

View attachment 90876View attachment 90877

Apron out front a minimum of 10ft are more. Side walls a minimum of 10ft setting on cinder blocks. No paint on floor keep it clean use oil dry for emergences only. Figure for a built in wall fan to pull air through the building are put in an extra big door. Where is the water going? It looks to me you will need to build it up some.

 

[bc]

I've never been a fan of floating slabs in winter frost heaving area or area with termites.

If a DIY project then take your tractor bucket and remove the grass and top soil from an area bigger than your project. Have a load of compactable stone brought in, spread and compact with your tractor. Lay out your string lines at the proper size and height for the foundation footing. Check square by having the same corner diagonal measurements. Check height with Lazer level.

Then rent a mini excavator with a 12 to 15 to 18 inch bucket for 300 bux or so. Dig a footing trench 8 to 12 inches deeper than your area frost depth level. Add a couple tied rebar with cross pieces. Order in the concrete truck, pour and level the footing adding some vertical rebar. Some will stake in 2x4s to get the footing at the right height and some will eyeball it with some rebar stakes at various intervals and level while pouring. Add some vertical rebar when done. Couple guys can do it.

Go to big box store and get the insulated concrete foam blocks to build your foundation up to at least 12" above ground level. Tie in some horizontal rebar as you are going. Shim or trim any to get level. Then get your bolts and hurricane ties ready and order the concrete truck. Pour in any termite treatment if needed. Back fill and compact around the footing on both sides with your compactable stone.

For the floor lay down some 6+ mil thick plastic and then a layer of 1" thick insulating foam. Then add 6" remesh with chairs holding it above the foam. Order concrete when you have all the tools and help available. Some concrete plants have or know of the experienced guys who can finish your slab if you ask them. 2 to 4 guys can screed, bull float, and finish trowel it. A straight screed board and a couple plywood pieces to lay down to finish trowel helps.

Easy peezy.

Good luck.

 

[showcrop]

Terms used for gravel materials varies a lot by geographical area. What BC is referring to by "compactable stone" would be ledge that is crushed to 1.5 inch largest dimension and includes all of the various sized pieces from 1.5 inch down to powder. It will compact as hard as concrete. For higher load capacity a larger size is used. Redimix concrete is rated in strength by the largest stone size.