New Holland Super Hayliner 68 - restoration

[steve_pr]

This message is a reply to an archived post by Ron Lines on September 05, 2016 at 15:15:39.
The original subject was "New Holland Super Hayliner 68".


Not sure what the protocol is here, but have been soaking up the info for some time, now starting to be in a position to post. Last summer my neighbour and I resurrected his barn stored
Hayliner 68 (which his father bought from new when he was in school). Given that NH stopped making the 68 in 1959 (I think) you'l het the idea neither of us are exactly spring chickens!! It all
worked well with my tractor (50hp alpine) since his one is now too big for the baler!! Did over 800 bales without problems - not bad for something that hadn't been touched for more than a
decade. Anyway, when checking things over for this season it became clear that the paint had been holding it together and there was a lot of serious rust, especially around the needle pivot
which led us to look at plan B for this summer.

By chance I managed to find a Super 68 just 10 miles down the road that was a reasonable condition with the bad rust in places that were going to be easy to replace/repair (see photo). Cost
me GBP500 (we are in south west wales by the way - not sure how many members are this side of the pond) and is now in my barn. It was working when i picked it up so everything is
reasonably OK but it is in my nature to strip and maintain so the covers are all off, paint, primer and anti-corrosion treatment ordered and starting the big clean up, degrease, sand and paint.

I have found lots of useful hints elsewhere in this forum and in the absence (like I cannot find one anywhere) of a workshop manual am having to work things out as I go alonh. Have the
operators manual and the parts book (not that most of the parts appear to be available) but useful to see how it goes together. I will be upfront and admit that i am not going for a purist
restoration, this is a baler that needs to work and looking good is part of keeping it going. First issue was the screws. I think NH used a combination of cheese and play dough(!), I managed to
save about a third, another third are out but mangled and the remaining ones had to be cut out! They will all be replaced with button head stainless bolts with a hex socket - that way I will be
able to get them off easily and they look good.

The floor of the pick up chamber and the twine box are both badly rusted but since they are pretty flat panels I can make new ones since they are no longer available (and judging by NH
spares prices would cost a fortune anyway). Managed to find some hay dog springs (2 out of 3 broken) and spent a pleasant afternoon removing the plunger. It was very tight but developed a
neat way to use the connecting rod and flywheel to push it out. Don't think the wooden bearings are original (one is a different length) but they all look they could do with being replaced. New
bearings are over GBP50 each over here (and $145 from US sources) so I will make up a set from some nice English Oak I have lying around. Found one part supplier who very kindly added
the dimensions to the listing (thank you!!!) and can sort the rest from the existing ones.

Question: The four bale chamber wedges have completely disintegrated and are silly money to replace. What thoughts on making new ones from Oak? Will do the same job and cost nothing
but a bit of time!

I am going to need some answers to things like how much slack should there be in the various chains (especially the time bar drive) so expect to see me back here again. Can post some
pictures and notes as i go along if people are at all interested and will probably document it all on my weblog.

Looking forward to chatting at least virtually (mind you that is all that is possible in these nnalert 19 times!

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

Hello Steve! Welcome to the site.
There is an option for the service manuals but it may take a while to find them. They're the Serviceman's Trouble Shooting handbooks. Look for them by the binder full. They can be found on Ebay from time to time. If someone doesn't list the contents of the binder, just ask. There are the three manuals that cover your baler currently listed, but they want $106 USD for them. Hardly a bargain much less reasonable. I average about $35 for a binder full of manuals when found. So, be patient. Don't think I have the baler manuals, but I'll look. Think they're all spreader & feed mixer manuals.

Not sure about making the wedges from oak. I don't see why they wouldn't work. There's an S68 baler sitting in the woods on the farm. I can take a look at it when I go out for a walk this evening. It's possible the one on there are still in tact.

Regards,
Mike

 

[DeltaRed]

You say your current tractor is "too big". Nonsence. Just go slow and let the baler 'chew',just don't crowd it.I've pulled a small baler in the past with a 125+ horse tractor with no issues.If everything is 'right',the shear bolt will protect the baler.good luck with your restoration.

 

[DeltaRed]

The chain that runs the crossfeed/tinebar needs be "tight as a fiddlestring"

 

[showcrop]

Be abundant with phosphoric acid rust converter in order to get the rust in the bottoms of the pits. I recommend a watery thin clear one.

 

[PJH]

That's the first one I've ever seen with a cover over the flywheel. I remember when a brand new one was delivered to a farm that I was working on, and maybe my memory is shot, but I can't remember it having a covered flywheel.

 

[steve_pr]

Well there you go! These daus there would be a cover over the cover (and probably another one over that!) but in the 60's we were trusted not to put our fingers on moving objects!!!

 

[steve_pr]

Good advice, and I am. I use Bilthammer products and the have alweys worked well for me!

 

[steve_pr]

Thanks. Found simlIar advice in the user manual, have tightened everything up but think i still need to replace the two bearings.