"New" MF265 Owner

disney7

New User
Hey everyone, I just took over caring for some family property and it came with a MF265. I'm not sure what year it is.

It seems to be in pretty good shape (I just mowed 20 acres with it) for its age, but it needs some help. I have a background in automotive stuff as well as electronics, so I'm not worried about being able to wrench on it... I just don't know anything about old tractors.

First question is, where is the best place to find an owners and service manual for it? There are a few controls on it that I don't really know the function of.

Second question is, where is the best place to find parts? Are parts generally available for this tractor or are they hard to find? My goal is to bring it up to a maintained and fully functional state, so I'm more concerned about functionality than restoring it as an antique.

The fellow who's being keeping the tractor running for the last thirty years is an awesome guy, but his idea of repairs are that if it will run and perform its function, its a permanent fix. For example, it has a fuel leak somewhere around what I think is the high pressure fuel pump. It drips fuel on the ground at something like 10 drips per minute. The fix for that was to cut the fuel line and put a shutoff valve in it, so the fuel tank wouldn't be empty the next time it was needed. The cutoff valve wouldn't pass enough fuel to run the tractor at high load, so that valve was replaced with a piece of rubber fuel line and a clamp is used to stop fuel flow when the tractor is parked. There are a few other fixes like that around and some involve bailing wire.

So far, this is what I'm planning to repair:

  • Remove the seat and have it rebuild/recovered
  • Remove the radiator and have it checked out. Mostly just to have an overflow nipple brazed back on. It was broken off at some point, shoved back in (not sealing) and is connected by a hose to an old gatorade bottle (where was the original overflow bottle on this tractor?)
  • Replace the hard fuel line that was cut (I have the tools to make and flare a new line) and figure out where the leak is. I doubt it is just a leaky fitting or he would have fixed it. Do the HP fuel pumps have any common leaks?
  • Replace the shifter boots. They're torn and will let rain into the transmission if it is left out of the barn in the rain.
  • Fix the fuel gauge. It just bounces around the center and doesn't reflect the fuel tank level at all. Do these have a float type sending unit?
  • Fix the tach. It doesn't work at all. I'm told its the drive cable and supposedly there is a new one somewhere here I can install.
I also need to learn what maintenance needs to be kept up on it. I do believe the oil and filters have been changed fairly regularly.

Thanks for any info or resources that you all can provide to get me started on this. I'm in east TN, U.S.
 
You should be able to get the manuals from AGCOparts.com or ebay. Parts are readily available from this site(YT) or a massey dealer and many others, get a part number from AGCOparts.com and search on google. Depending on which fuel line is leaking you "might" be able to get a new one instead of cobbling up the one you have. Never seen an overflow bottle on a 200 series MF, I have three of them, don't need it, just don't overfill the rad per the Operator's Manual. Fuel gauge issues rarely work for long, I use a clean stick. Keep it parked in the barn if possible, less problem with rain. The tach may be the cable or it could be bad, replacements are so-so these days so be aware. You can buy the replacement seat cushions if fixing them is too expensive. The rad is prone to plugging when bush-hogging so keep it cleaned out, air compressor is useful. What controls do you have questions about while you wait for a manual? Taken care of these are pretty tough tractors.
 
Thanks for the reply! There was a lot of helpful info in there.

I now have operators and service manuals on the way from eBay.

I didn't realize you could get just the seat cushions, so that's great. I found them using the part numbers from AGCO for reasonable prices.

I don't know exactly what the relationship between the two levers (right of the seat) have with the attachment arms. I just futz with them until the bushhog stays where I want it. Someone told me one has to do with how fast the other one moves things, but that doesn't seem to be the case as far as I can tell from experimentation. I can't read what is written on the lever guides, but I think one of them might say "draft". Any tips on this?

Also, how can I determine the year of manufacture and find the serial number? I haven't done an exhaustive search yet, but I haven't seen a serial number plate.

The next step is to clean it up good. Is degreaser and a pressure washer on a cold engine ok? Anything I should avoid other than the obvious stuff like radiator fins and the alternator?

Thanks. I'm looking forward to getting this tractor back into top shape.
 
Hey, if you can bush hog 20 acres then you've got most of it figured out;) The two levers on your right, one round tipped the other somewhat square-ish are just like you said, for the lift or 3 point hitch. One won't work without the other. The round tipped and longer one is the Draft control, mainly used for ground engaging equipment like a plow or 3PH lift disc. The shorter, square one is the Position control to more precise "positioning" if you will. Use it to set your bush hog height, BUT, the Draft control has to be in the full up positition to work properly. Clear as mud? READ and REread the Operator's Manual for details. One "technique" for bush hogging is to engage the PTO at IDLE speed, slowly, with the clutch if you have Live power THEN adjust the engine RPM to at or near the PTO RPM on the Tach, since yours is in-op, start at about 3/4 throttle. Choose a gear based on YOUR conditions, Low range for heavy cutting usually and maybe high range for very light cutting. I'm usually in 3 or 4 LOW due to heavier cutting, sometimes even 2 LOW. Don't chase the cutting with throttle, use the gears. Since you probably haven't mowed these fields before ALWAYS be ready to JAM the clutch in and throttle down at the first indication of rocks, fenceposts, small cars, etc to keep from harming your cutter and worse, your PTO driveline. A slip clutch on the hog should be adjusted annually according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Serial number should be in front of the two gears levers on the black metal. Use the serial number decoder on this site.
The Manual says NOT to EVER wash a hot engine so your thinking is good. Lots of spray foam engine cleaner with LIGHT water pressure works well, Simple Green is good too. Stay away from high pressure near the injectors OR the pump to be safe. A good, stiff brushing on the pump is all you need.
 

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