New to me 1956 case 311 questions

[deene]

Hi all, i just purchased this tractor, it runs but smokes, one dead cyl, replaced plugs and wires and still missing. I will check on the valves soon with weather permitting. Is there rebuild kits available for this engine? The previous owner said the 3pt leaks around the lift arms badly, does this require me to take off the top cover assy and rering the cyl? How big of a job is that? Justa as a side note, it has front wheel weights and i got both side curtains with the purchase.
Thanks for any help.

 

[chris142]

As you know the piston can leak into the differential and then fill up to the point of overflowing.

There's no rings on the piston it's a thick rubber like thing I couldn't get mine in and had to pay a shop to do it then I put it all back together.
You don't want to drive it with the hydraulic oil in the rear end as it will burn up the gears.

 

[Case/Chev]

Can't help with the engine, but many on here have replaced the large "seal" on the 3pt piston. Lot's of hints and ideas previously on here to access before you decide to take on the task. As previously stated, the oil leaks around the piston and spills down into the rear axle assembly. "Leaking around the arms" does not sound like a good description. Maybe do a little digging and diagnosing.

 

[JOCCO]

Can't help much on hydraulic but do a compression test. It should give you an idea on the bad cylinder.

 

[Tgrasher]

Check your oil levels in the hydraulic/torque tube reservoir (located on the far right under the console, small pipe plug) and the gear/differential reservoir (located left side under front of seat, big plug) to see what the situation is. If the rear is too high oil will find a place to leak. The drain is located bottom right rear of differential and is a 3/4" pipe plug. It takes a 3 gallon (shorter) bucket to do the job, drain two and get plug back in. If your ram is leaking the lift arms will go down on their own, be it maybe slow and over night. Make sure there is adequate oil in the hydraulic (Case hytran or farm store equivalent) reservoir as the pump and triple range gears get lubricated by it. Once oil levels are OK, keep an eye on levels and lift arms to figure out what's wrong. There are other places where oil can transfer. On a side, oil your distributor on top of shaft (should be a piece of felt in it but never is) and on the side oiler ( grooved knob end pulls out to reveal hole). You don't want to be looking for a replacement and I bet it hasn't been oiled in years. Ask more questions on your oil problem as you learn more about what's going on.

 

[kenbob]

From my experience: There can be a lot of water in the rear end causing fluid levels to be high. If you haven't driven it, you might be able to drain water out of the bottom, but if it is milky, the water and oil have mixed. A dead cylinder can be something as simple as valve adjustment. We did a Fergie once that wad 1/4" valve lash on one cylinder when we got it. A bent push rod is also not out of the question.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Any Eagle hitch piston seal leak drops into the differential housing. The lift arms rockshaft does not have shaft seals, if oil is leaking out the ends then the transmission is full up. There is a breather on the front of the rockshaft housing under the seat that must be plugged if you are getting oil leaking out the rockshaft ends.

The 1956-57 311 Eagle hitch factory original piston seals is one o-ring and one metal piston ring, things get changed over the years so eyeball before you order. John Saeli best bet for parts (315) 585-9826.

On the engine you might have a valve sticking in the guide. This is a quick way to set valve lash on 1-3-4-2 engines.
All 300 intake and exhaust valve lash is set 0.014" cold. Turn crank CW (viewed from the front) till nr 1 is TDC on compression stroke.
Set valves: #1 - I & E ...... #2- I ...... #3 - E

Rotate crank CW (viewed from the front) exactly 360 degs. Nr 4 is now TDC on the compression stroke
set valves: #2 - E ...... #3 - I ...... #4 - I & E

Start engine with valve cover off, check all valves not sticking open, check exhaust valves rotating, check sufficient oil to top deck to lube running gear and down pushrod holes to lube the lifters and the center & aft cam shaft bearings.

 

[deene]

Hi all, i just purchased this tractor, it runs but smokes, one dead cyl, replaced plugs and wires and still missing. I will check on the valves soon with weather permitting. Is there rebuild kits available for this engine? The previous owner said the 3pt leaks around the lift arms badly, does this require me to take off the top cover assy and rering the cyl? How big of a job is that? Justa as a side note, it has front wheel weights and i got both side curtains with the purchase.
Thanks for any help.

These are all great responses, thanks so much for your knowledge, i will keep you posted as i work through all the new issues.

 

[kenbob]

Please do. SO many times folks ask for advice and we never hear if any of the advice helped solve the problem.

 

[deene]

ok so i am need of a pushrod for this tractor, evidently one broke and they replaced it with one from a car, its to big of a diameter to fit down to the lifter, so was mushroomed on top. Is there someone that has a part number for this pushrod, or one or 2 good used would work also if there are any out there. thanks

 

[kenbob]

Don Livingston on rusty acres might be the place to check for used. Saili implement might have new.

 

[DKase]

Most engine parts are available. Std Mains were not available 1 year ago.

 

[johnnmr]

Not sure about about the 311 but we overhauled our 511b in '09, everything was available at that time but the oil pump. I'd assume using the internet today there'd be a new one somewhere.

Parts were horribly expensive, if grandpa hadn't bought it new I would have thought hard about junking it.

Look before you leap.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Most engine parts are available. Std Mains were not available 1 year ago.

YT still lists them available and spendy.
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/...Area=Case&&md=300&cat=Engine Bearings&r=mcats

 

[deene]

Update, Thanks to Don L and the arrival today of a needed pushrod and valve cover gasket, adjusted the valves, and the machine is running on all four again. New discoveries, the clutch slips in 4 hi, so i guess that will need to be addressed. the 3 pt does work and doesnt puke oil out of anywhere, the long lever in the left of the transmission i assume might be for the pto? i shifted it and the pto doesnt turn, does this drive off of of the clutch as well? Before you tell me i need a manual, i have ordered one but it hasnt arrived yet, but i wanted to drive it and play some so its going to get run some more tomorrow. It does smoke some, but is more black than blue, so time to take the carb off, clean and then reassemble. the throttle linkage is very stiff to operate, so will go through that and just start fixing. Fenders flop some as they are rusted at the bracket where it attaches to the axle, will fab and weld those up, why did case make the support open on the top to let water sit in there. I wanted to say thanks to all who helped with advice, lots of good resources here, i will try to figure out how to get pics up. I know i always like looking at what people get themselves into as well.

 

[kenbob]

Little loop behind the seat is lifted to engage the pto. lever on the side is a clutch that will stop the tractor when pulled back but lets the pto run. snap it forward to make the tractor move again.

 

[Tgrasher]

There were two configurations of fenders, early models had a boxed in support like yours, and yes, they rust badly from filling with dirt. Later fenders had four radial angle iron supports that are usually found in good shape, and were stronger.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

New discoveries, the clutch slips in 4 hi, so i guess that will need to be addressed. the 3 pt does work and doesnt puke oil out of anywhere, the long lever in the left of the transmission i assume might be for the pto? i shifted it and the pto doesnt turn, does this drive off of of the clutch as well?

Is the long lever on the left the optional shuttle or the optional hand clutch? Shuttle lever enters the left side of the torque tube cover. Hand clutch enters left side near bottom of the torque tube case.

Most 311 will have the optional hand clutch with optional triple range lever like the pic one as opposed to shuttle and dual range.

With hand clutch tractor travel requires both engine clutch and hand clutch, PTO only requires engine clutch and engagement on the local

If a tractor with hand clutch is slipping in a hard pull it can be either the engine clutch or the hand clutch or both. Try to determine which clutch is slipping. If you can hold the hand clutch lever forward forcefully and the tractor picks up some ground travel then the problem is in the hand clutch. Hand clutch is adjustable for wear and is often the culprit. If you need help with adjustment I will post some pics.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Is the long lever on the left the optional shuttle or the optional hand clutch? Shuttle lever enters the left side of the torque tube cover. Hand clutch enters left side near bottom of the torque tube case.

Most 311 will have the optional hand clutch with optional triple range lever like the pic one as opposed to shuttle and dual range.

With hand clutch tractor travel requires both engine clutch and hand clutch, PTO only requires engine clutch and engagement on the local

If a tractor with hand clutch is slipping in a hard pull it can be either the engine clutch or the hand clutch or both. Try to determine which clutch is slipping. If you can hold the hand clutch lever forward forcefully and the tractor picks up some ground travel then the problem is in the hand clutch but if it doesn't pickup doesn't necessarily eliminate the hand clutch as the problem. Hand clutch is adjustable for wear and is often the culprit. If you need help with adjustment I will post some pics.

 

[deene]

Ok so back with more info, Joe, the lever enters the bottom of the torque tube. I recieved my IT manual but it has noting at all about the hand clutch or any adjustment process. i have not tried holding it with pressure to pick up speed as of yet. i also went to hook up a 3 pt blade to use and discovered one of the slides for the eagle hitch is gone, so there is no way to lock the implement pin in on one arm. Do they make these as a repop or do i need to find one used? I would also like to get a working dash for this unit, i have been told they are rare and expensive, but my only other option is to take this one out, and make a replacement panel for round gages. Any input on this? thanks