New to me 1956 case 311 questions

[kenbob]

Ok so back with more info, Joe, the lever enters the bottom of the torque tube. I recieved my IT manual but it has noting at all about the hand clutch or any adjustment process. i have not tried holding it with pressure to pick up speed as of yet. i also went to hook up a 3 pt blade to use and discovered one of the slides for the eagle hitch is gone, so there is no way to lock the implement pin in on one arm. Do they make these as a repop or do i need to find one used? I would also like to get a working dash for this unit, i have been told they are rare and expensive, but my only other option is to take this one out, and make a replacement panel for round gages. Any input on this? thanks

I am probably going to list a dash unit for sale as soon as I get it back together. Everything seems to work except the heat gauge. It works but line is busted. That can be fixed but it as about $50 to do a new line

 

[Dennis K]

Elmers tractor parts have eagle hitch parts and possibly this site.

 

[Dennis K]

This site has eagle hitch parts. Under Case look up 300 and scroll th hitch parts

 

[Joe (Wa)]

Ok I'll post some pics and adjustment procedure in the AM. Does you tractor have the triple range shift lever on the right side of the torque tube cover as in the pic above?

There are several people here that have changed to round gauges that look pretty good in the archives. Just keep in mind the tack drive is for pointer LH (CCW) pointer sweep is that opposite typical.

Jensales is a much better service manual if you can't get the original Case Service manual.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

First of all in the traveling hand clutch slippage check, holding the lever forward "forcefully" as I wrote is a poor choice of words, just hold it up tight with some pressure. That is a long lever with a lot of leverage that can break something.

The engine clutch engages the drive shaft that powers the pto directly (when engaged on the back) and also the 4 sp transmission via the hand clutch. The function of the hand clutch is to engage/disengage the triple range gear train & 4sp transmission for tractor ground travel. Ground travel is controlled by the hand clutch which has no effect on the pto. This is what Case calls a “constant running pto”.

Slippage in the hand clutch can be caused by excessive wear. Slipping friction discs can get hot and warped to the point clutch adjustment is ineffective. The hand clutch feature and slippage can sometimes be eliminated creating a solid drive link by adjusting the clutch up to max that it can break over-center engaged and not using it.

Torque Tube cover: Remove the dipstick, the cover is lifted with the shifter in neutral, a shifter rail may catch under the casing rim preventing the cover from lifting more than a 1/4 inch or so. Set it back down shift to different gear(s) and back to neutral and try lift again.

Pic 1 is exploded view of the hand clutch.
Pic 2 is a complete hand clutch assy. Note that nr 1 pin is down in an adjustment plate locking slot, nr 2 pin is raised riding on the adjustment plate between two slots. Cheap scale works good has hook on the end.
Pic 3 Torque tube view cover off. If your hydraulic oil is clear enough you may be able to see or feel for the adjustment locking pins, if not, drain down the torque tube oil level some.

When adjusting use a scale to measure the force required to "snap" the clutch mechanism over-center, that force is 45 to 60 lbs as measured at the top of the lever right at the knob in the engaged direction.

This is how I adjust the hand clutch.
From the left side of the tractor, with the hand lever disengaged, turn the drum or input gear to locate and pull out the spring loaded pin that is engaged in a slot on the adjustment plate and hold it out with left hand, turn the triple range input gear with right hand (CCW increase tension, CW decrease). The input gear will rotate about 10 degs and the other spring loaded pin will drop into a slot on the adjustment plate and that will again marry the drum & input gear. Continue releasing the pin that is locking the adjustment plate and turning the input gear to get the correct over-center snap force. Check over-center snap force each adjustment increment as the force is not linear and it is very easy to overshoot. Too tight, back off some and adjust up again.

 

[deene]

First of all in the traveling hand clutch slippage check, holding the lever forward "forcefully" as I wrote is a poor choice of words, just hold it up tight with some pressure. That is a long lever with a lot of leverage that can break something.

The engine clutch engages the drive shaft that powers the pto directly (when engaged on the back) and also the 4 sp transmission via the hand clutch. The function of the hand clutch is to engage/disengage the triple range gear train & 4sp transmission for tractor ground travel. Ground travel is controlled by the hand clutch which has no effect on the pto. This is what Case calls a “constant running pto”.

Slippage in the hand clutch can be caused by excessive wear. Slipping friction discs can get hot and warped to the point clutch adjustment is ineffective. The hand clutch feature and slippage can sometimes be eliminated creating a solid drive link by adjusting the clutch up to max that it can break over-center engaged and not using it.

Torque Tube cover: Remove the dipstick, the cover is lifted with the shifter in neutral, a shifter rail may catch under the casing rim preventing the cover from lifting more than a 1/4 inch or so. Set it back down shift to different gear(s) and back to neutral and try lift again.

Pic 1 is exploded view of the hand clutch.
Pic 2 is a complete hand clutch assy. Note that nr 1 pin is down in an adjustment plate locking slot, nr 2 pin is raised riding on the adjustment plate between two slots. Cheap scale works good has hook on the end.
Pic 3 Torque tube view cover off. If your hydraulic oil is clear enough you may be able to see or feel for the adjustment locking pins, if not, drain down the torque tube oil level some.

When adjusting use a scale to measure the force required to "snap" the clutch mechanism over-center, that force is 45 to 60 lbs as measured at the top of the lever right at the knob in the engaged direction.

This is how I adjust the hand clutch.
From the left side of the tractor, with the hand lever disengaged, turn the drum or input gear to locate and pull out the spring loaded pin that is engaged in a slot on the adjustment plate and hold it out with left hand, turn the triple range input gear with right hand (CCW increase tension, CW decrease). The input gear will rotate about 10 degs and the other spring loaded pin will drop into a slot on the adjustment plate and that will again marry the drum & input gear. Continue releasing the pin that is locking the adjustment plate and turning the input gear to get the correct over-center snap force. Check over-center snap force each adjustment increment as the force is not linear and it is very easy to overshoot. Too tight, back off some and adjust up again.

This is great info Joe, thanks so much for the details. and yes, mine is the triple range.

 

[Dennis K]

Here is the new gauge cluster I built for my 511b I still have a blank aluminum base plate less gauges which I got most of them from John Sahli

 

[chris142]

As for gauges mine was converted to 12v long before I got it so the 6v gauges wouldn't work anyway. I just hung a temperature guage under the dash. The stock oil pressure gauge uses a mechanical tube so it kinda works .

 

[Dennis K]

As for gauges mine was converted to 12v long before I got it so the 6v gauges wouldn't work anyway. I just hung a temperature guage under the dash. The stock oil pressure gauge uses a mechanical tube so it kinda works .

These are 12 v. except the tach which is cable.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

The 56/57 300 was factory 6v pos gnd. 12v neg gnd conversion, instrumentation wise, only requires swapping leads on the ammeter. The original 6v gas gauge doesn't work on 12v unless the voltage is reduced with resistor(s) in the power lead and that is pretty marginal both in accuracy and longevity (BTDT). The oil gauge & temp gauge are both bourdon tube type pressure gauges. The tach & speedo are both magnetic drag cup type with input provided by the drive/spinning cable.

 

[John Saeli]

Here is the new gauge cluster I built for my 511b I still have a blank aluminum base plate less gauges which I got most of them from John Sahli

I would have seen you got a CASE 0-30PSI Oil Gauge, CASE 0-20 AMP, both w/ Authentic Needle, and the TEMP Gauge w/ an Authentic Needle.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

one of the slides for the eagle hitch is gone

Are you missing the claw latch or lock?

 

[deene]

Here is the new gauge cluster I built for my 511b I still have a blank aluminum base plate less gauges which I got most of them from John Sahli

that looks nice, i might have to go that direction as well.

 

[deene]

Are you missing the claw latch or lock?

im missing the latch,

 

[Joe (Wa)]

im missing the latch,YT has

YT has it listed at the link $50.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Case-300_Eagle-Hitch-Latch_A26240.html

Lots of aftermarket vendors have it, seems like ~$60 average. Google A26240 latch.

I would call Don Livingston (507) 433-0073, maybe get a decent original at a lower price.

 

[deene]

So i got the tractor out and used it a bit yesterday pulling stuff around. The tractor runs ok, doesnt smoke like it used to, runs very rich so will go thru the carb soon. I was pleased i hadnt had issues with leaks on the 3pt, until i tried to lift the front of another tractor to pull it into place. Then i had fluid coming out all over, with the tractor running, it drops as soon as i let go of the lift handle, and all the fluid comes out under the seat. It was getting dark so i will have to do this during the day and try to see if it comes from the arms or somewhere else. Its looking like i will need to reseal the hyd cyl after all. I also tried the holding up on the hand clutch but it didnt help, so its looking like the foot clutch is the slippage problem. Looks like some time in the shop after all.

 

[Joe (Wa)]

The transmission breather is on the top back under the seat. Piston seal leak drops directly into the transmission. If oil is coming out of the breather the transmission is full with hydraulic oil from the torque tube so check both oil levels. If the torque tube oil level is very low and you are going to run the engine disengage the hydraulic pump drive at the lockout plunger. The plunger will be stuck if not moved for years, tap it out gently.

 

[kenbob]

The hydraulic line is attached almost under the seat, but on the right side. It can make a mess if it starts leaking.

 

[Tgrasher]

Refer to my first post on Feb 7th.

 

[deene]

Looks like its coming out of the breather, so i will get it on the shop and start draining things. I know i will need to take off the top to reseal the hyd cyl so it doesnt leak down, looks like a lot of work ahead. When i start all this i will tear down the engine and rering and do valves, also probably put in a new clutch and get everything in order, i already like using it. Thanks for all of your continued help with this, i will try to figure out how to get some pictures up soon.