Newbie just got a TD6

[WillisB]

Just bought this TD6 and know nothing about it. Stars runs, shifts, blade up and down, levers for turning I need to learn about. Left lever doesn’t seem to do much and right lever is semi functional (I think). Right brake works good, left no so much. Tips welcome.

 

[stdsch40]

Nice machine. Its a gas start diesel, correct?

 

[TomA in CA]

Steering problems might be adjustment. Books on Amazon.

 

[WillisB]

Nice machine. Its a gas start diesel, correct?

Yes, gas start to warm up for diesel

 

[stdsch40]

Yes, gas start to warm up for diesel

Those are powerful engines when kept in good tune. Let them cool down before shutting off.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

If you are having brake problems, DO NOT run the machine until you pull the inspection plugs behind the brake bands, to ascertain that there is still lining on the bands. If it's running metal-to-metal it will ruin the drums and there is nothing that can be done for them other than replacement.

 

[WillisB]

If you are having brake problems, DO NOT run the machine until you pull the inspection plugs behind the brake bands, to ascertain that there is still lining on the bands. If it's running metal-to-metal it will ruin the drums and there is nothing that can be done for them other than replacement.

Figured out what you were referring to. I pulled the two plugs to inspect the brake bands. RH side appears to still have plenty of lining, but it’s hard to tell with the LH side. Do you pull the top from this section to get to the brakes? Seat, battery, clutch arms and housing? I’ve ordered a manual from Amazon, just not sure how far into this thing I want to go. Thanks

 

[Fritz Maurer]

If the clutches are releasing you don't need to pull the top off at all. You have years of lining left on those bands. Clean and lubricate everything and do an adjustment sequence and it should start steering.

 

[Dennis K (WA)]

Agree with Fritz, if just the bands need to come out they are removed out the bottom. Does the tractor pull on both tracks with handles forward? Does it stop traveling with both handles back? It should in both cases. The linkage and turnbuckles under the seat are where you adjust the clutches. The brakes are adjusted from underneath. Remove the covers. Do not adjust the brakes too tight, only enough to lockup the track. Otherwise you can over heat them. Have fun. I had a T6 for many years.
Dennis

 

[WillisB]

Agree with Fritz, if just the bands need to come out they are removed out the bottom. Does the tractor pull on both tracks with handles forward? Does it stop traveling with both handles back? It should in both cases. The linkage and turnbuckles under the seat are where you adjust the clutches. The brakes are adjusted from underneath. Remove the covers. Do not adjust the brakes too tight, only enough to lockup the track. Otherwise you can over heat them. Have fun. I had a T6 for many years.
Dennis

Moves forward with both handles forward. Right handle back turns right. Left handle back doesn’t stop track or turn left. What sort of adjustment is required to make it stop LH track? I have a manual coming soon. Thanks.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Run the blade against a stump with the left lever pulled back. If the track spins in the dirt, it's out of adjustment or the dry clutch plates are stuck together.

Wait for your manual, then do a clutch adjustment. If that doesn't work, then the fuel tank and the top cover have to come off. Not much money to fix, just a lot of bolts to take out.

There is a possibility that the clutch could break loose, but there are so many plates stacked together that I don't feel too optimistic about that. They are fiber plates against steel, and when they start rusting up ,the fiber sticks to them readily .

If it does free up, you may want to tie the clutch levers back during periods of inactivity because they WILL stick again. There is not enough slippage or rpm to keep them polished up nice... even a small spot of rust is difficult to remove, and it just keeps getting bigger.

However, I dislike keeping springs compressed for extended periods. If it were me the only true cure is pull both clutches and clean them up. This is not a bad job and costs practically nothing. A small shop hoist, a come- along or a chain fall would make lifting the clutches out easier.

 

[Dennis K (WA)]

The handles should have 2"-4" free travel adjusted with the turnbuckles under the seat. That's usually the only adjustment for the clutches. Like Fritz said, put it up against something with handle back and see what happens. Don't get too forceful, you may break something. There is a chance the clutch is froze up if machine was stored outside in damp climate. I tied my handles back when stored for a long period of time and that was inside. You probably know, to make a pivot steer you need to pull the handle then use the brake simultaneously.
Steering clutches was not a job I enjoyed doing but sometimes there is no choice.
Dennis

 

[TomA in CA]

You could try taking free travel out completely, release lever. Drive with brake applied enough to heat the drum, works sometimes.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Resist the temptation to hold the lever back and repeatedly slam the brake. Can break the center out of the drive hub of the steering clutch, which is not a real robust piece of cast iron.

There is not a very high torque requirement to make the track spin in the dirt, because of all the reduction in the final drive. But because the clutch is stuck, whatever grip the band is capable of is what the drive hub is subjected to, which can be many times more than the drive hub was intended to handle.
Ordinarily, the torque is zero at the drive hub with the clutch released.

If you do end up pulling the clutches, clean and inspect this part very carefully, for cracks from previous abuse (Trying to break loose a sprocket packed with frozen mud, for example).