NH 68 broken needles

[Phil R.]

Hello, I had just bought my first baler which is an old NH 68, it looks like it is in good shape. The person I bought it from said he just replaced the tines because they broke from being out of "time". He said he "timed" the machine and it was ready to go. I used it for the first time this past weekend. It baled 10 bales and both needles broke along with both shear bolts. Needles are $105.00 each! A local NH dealer said it is out of time and hitting the plunger but I cannot see where it would. Is it the plunger? Is there any suggestions or ideas? Any help would be appreciated. Thank-you

 

[DeltaRed]

there are timing marks that must be lined up,if theyrenot,crunch-crunch.buy a book-now.it will have allthe information youneed,+ troubleshooting guides.the book will be cheap ,compared to........

 

[old]

First thing to do is fix the plunger safety stop which is a spring loaded part that goes up to stop the plunger when the needles are up so as not to have the needles get broken. Also look at the knotters real well because some times when that happens they get broken, guess how I know about that part. Any how your needles maybe able to be welded and that some times save a lot of $$. My 271 has needles that have be welded

 

[Phil R.]

thank-you for your reply. where is the plunger safety stop? Is it the spring loaded lever on the side?

 

[old]

On the 68 not sure where it is but on the 271 is I remember right yes it is on the side and when the needles leave the home position a little wedge sort of things drops into the plunger box and will stop it if the needles are away from home and that in turn stops the needles from getting broken

 

[paul]

Spend a few bucks on a manual for this baler. It'll be invaluable to you.

'Timing' a baler involves messing with the chain set on the right cogs so everything happens properly. anything loose or stretched or anything can make it off a bit.

Your problems are in the chain (buy a new one) anything loose along that driveline (sproket or linkage loose on a shaft, etc. and of course the biggest trouble was trusting the seller that he actually did the timeing right!

Those needles can be welded good as new at a good welding shop for less money.

Then follow the manual to set things up right, and work yourself through how it all works - including the plunger-stop.

If I sound kinda tough on you, sorry. Just it's important to get this all right, and a few words here & there on the internet might not get every detail.

--->Paul

 

[RodinNS]

Plunger stop is probably seized given that it didn't come out and stop the plunger when the needles cycled...
As to why the needles cycled... that could be a timing issue or it could be a weak/worn/broken needle break.
Again, a manual will be invaluable.

Rod

 

[Zachary Hoyt]

On our 67 the stop is right on the side of the chute. It is spring loaded and sticks out a couple of inches on a pivot. It's linked to the arm that holds the needles.
Zach

 

[Anonymous-0]

Be sure to turn the baler in the right direction when you time it.If turned in opposite way the needles will be early & you can get hay between them & the plunger,which will break them.Good luck.

 

[Anonymous-0]

The guys have given you good advice. First, before anything else get the plunger stop fixed, lubed, adjusted, working free and easy.

Then time and fix your baler. Used needles are sometimes available, try Yinglings in PA. Knotters may have been damaged when the needles broke if the tips of the needles rammed thru the knotters.

 

[Eugene SWIA]

If you replace the drive chains use the right number of links. The parts book will tell you how many.
Gene

 

[ratskinner]

I have a 68 and I have a book for it to If you give me your email address I will send you how to time the needles

 

[Phil R.]

Thank-you for your help. I am at [email protected]