No spark on my Ford 800 after new points

Berghandler1

New User
I have a Ford 800 with original 6 volt system that I wanted to tune up. Changed points and properly regaped them, also new condenser and rotor. It was starting and running before but now have lost all spark. Put old condenser and old points back in but still no spark. I also tried a new coil but still no spark.
I should mention that while changing points the copper connector inside the distributor between the post on the points and the stud that comes out lower distributor and is connection for positive side of coil, that small copper connector broke. I replace it with a stranded #18 copper wire and now have continuity from outside of the distributor to the post on the points. So I think that this broken copper connector is not the issue?
After triple checking everything from the coil on through the distributor next thought is to check the ballast resister at the key switch?
Confusing that it started and now no spark??
Any ideas?
Thanks
 
I have a Ford 800 with original 6 volt system that I wanted to tune up. Changed points and properly regaped them, also new condenser and rotor. It was starting and running before but now have lost all spark. Put old condenser and old points back in but still no spark. I also tried a new coil but still no spark.
I should mention that while changing points the copper connector inside the distributor between the post on the points and the stud that comes out lower distributor and is connection for positive side of coil, that small copper connector broke. I replace it with a stranded #18 copper wire and now have continuity from outside of the distributor to the post on the points. So I think that this broken copper connector is not the issue?
After triple checking everything from the coil on through the distributor next thought is to check the ballast resister at the key switch?
Confusing that it started and now no spark??
Any ideas?
Thanks
I would be suspicious that it is grounded out.
 
I have a Ford 800 with original 6 volt system that I wanted to tune up. Changed points and properly regaped them, also new condenser and rotor. It was starting and running before but now have lost all spark. Put old condenser and old points back in but still no spark. I also tried a new coil but still no spark.
I should mention that while changing points the copper connector inside the distributor between the post on the points and the stud that comes out lower distributor and is connection for positive side of coil, that small copper connector broke. I replace it with a stranded #18 copper wire and now have continuity from outside of the distributor to the post on the points. So I think that this broken copper connector is not the issue?
After triple checking everything from the coil on through the distributor next thought is to check the ballast resister at the key switch?
Confusing that it started and now no spark??
Any ideas?
Thanks
Here is a simple trouble shooting tip. Take a piece of wire and hook it to the non ground side of the battery. With the distributor cap off make sure the points are closed. Next touch the wire to the ignition side of the coil. When you do that you should see a small spark. No spark means the points need to be cleaned. If you get a spark then turn the engine over just enough to open the points. Touch the wire to the coil again. If with the points open you get a spark then you have a short in the distributor some place
 
Here is a simple trouble shooting tip. Take a piece of wire and hook it to the non ground side of the battery. With the distributor cap off make sure the points are closed. Next touch the wire to the ignition side of the coil. When you do that you should see a small spark. No spark means the points need to be cleaned. If you get a spark then turn the engine over just enough to open the points. Touch the wire to the coil again. If with the points open you get a spark then you have a short in the distributor some place
So this wire should go from the negative side of my 6 volt battery to the negative side of the coil during these tests?
 
I chased a similar problem for a buddy to discover that when the new points were installed, 1 of the insulators was left out. That's why I suggested a

Ballast resistor? on 6v system of 800?
I saw a similar post on this site that said to check the ballast resister on an 800 and they had a photo of one on that post. Now I know I had one on my 9N but I can’t find it on the 800. When I ask Google it says it has one.
I’m confused
 
No troubleshooter has a complete set of electrical tools unless he has a $5 test light. I’ll leave it at that because I’m not there to see your situation in person.
 
As I said non ground side of the battery which is the ignition side of the battery and the side of the coil that isn't going to the distributor
I wouldn’t recommend this process to the average Joe who is having a problem with his points. More likely to burn your fingers than figure out your problem. It works for him and I suppose he burnt his fingers enough times he is trained like Pavlov’s dog. With the ignition on when the points are working properly a test light on the terminal coming out of the distributor should light when the points are open and go out when the points are closed. And flash while cranking. You have no resistor on your 6 volt 800 tractor. Either someone shot of their mouth on the other post you saw or the tractor was converted to 12 volts. The Ns were unusual in the fact that they used a resistor on a 6 volt system.
 
I saw a similar post on this site that said to check the ballast resister on an 800 and they had a photo of one on that post. Now I know I had one on my 9N but I can’t find it on the 800. When I ask Google it says it has one.
I’m confused
Google is not a “known” old tractor guru! :oops: And BTW, welcome to YT Berg..!
 
Im late here but you might look at my Ignition Troubleshooting it might help ??

TROUBLESHOOTING A BATTERY POWERED EXTERNAL COIL TYPE IGNITION SYSTEM:

PRELIMINARY CHECKS:

(A) To see if it happens to be a cap n rotor problem and to see if at least the coil is firing, remove the coil wire from the distributor (leave coil end intact) and place its bare end to within 1/8 inch from tractor iron, turn her on n crank her over, and see if she jumps that gap with a good visible blue spark?????? If so but the plug wire ends (from wire end to 1/8 inch to frame) or the plugs themselves don’t fire, its a cap n rotor or plug wire problem. If the coil wire isnt even sparking, see below.

(B) Next open the cap and see that the points are gapped correct and indeed opening and closing as the engine is cranked and the distributor shaft rotates and MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT BURNED OR PITTED OR CARBONED UP BADLY !!!!!!!!!!!! If so, running a point file between them to clean them up might make her run again HOWEVER that’s only a temporary cure, so if that cleaning makes her spark, INSTALL N GAP NEW POINTS. In the event they appear good but only gray oxide coated, non abrasively clean/buff/polish them using say a dollar bill or shop cloth etc. and see what happens.


MORE TROUBLESHOOTING IF ALL THE ABOVE STILL FAILS TO MAKE HER SPARK


1) THE VERY FIRST THING YOU GOTTA HAVE is voltage to be present on the coils high supply (NOT to distributor) terminal when you turn the Ignition switch ON. If not she cant ever fire, but in the event the ignition switch or circuit/wire down to the coil or any Ballast Resistor is bad or open, you can HOT WIRE it by jumping a hot ungrounded battery voltage source to the coils high input supply (NOT to distributor) side n see if she runs then???? If she fires hot wired, you could have a bad ignition switch ((That can happen, when Ignition is on, the switches IGN terminal must turn hot)),,,,,,,or an open Ballast (if it has one) or a bad/open wire from switch to coil.

If the switch is good, if you turn the ignition switch on and place a test lamp on the coils high (NOT to distributor) terminal SHE MUST LIGHT UP. If not again, look for an open Ballast Resistor (if it has one, it should read around 1.25 to 2 ohms across its terminals) or bad/open wires from the switches IGN output down to the Ballast (if it has one) and distributor.


2a) When the Ignition switch is turned on, voltage should appear on the coils high input side. That would be 6 volts on a straight 6 volt system or 12 volts on a 12 volt non external ballasted system, or around 6 volts on a 12 volt system that used a 6 volt coil plus an external Ballast Resistor and the coil is good and the points are closed and they and ALL wiring is good.

2b) To insure the coils low voltage primary winding is not bad/open, use an ohmmeter and measure its DC resistance between its lil + and -terminals. If its an open circuit (no continuity) its bad/open and will NOT work. It should measure around 1.25 to 2 ohms or so if its a 6 volt coil and maybe 2.5 to 3.5 if its a 12 volt internally ballasted coil. NOTE CAUTION have all leads and any voltage source DISCONNECTED FROM the coil for this simple primary winding continuity test.

3) Next, place your voltmeter or test lamp over on the coils other low to distributor terminal side, turn her on and crank the engine over.

4) A test lamp there should flash ON (when points are open) and OFF (when points are closed) as the engine is cranked slowly.

5a) If the lamp never comes on there, the coils primary is bad/open,,,,,,,,,,or the points are never opening,,,,,,,,,or theres a shorted/bad condensor (remove its lead to points and see if lamp comes on, if so, bad shorted condensor or its wiring),,,,,,,,or the points wire is shorted,,,,,,,,or the distributors side pass thru stud is grounded (use ohm meter to test that),,,,,,,,,or the points may have a shorted spring.

5b) If the lamp never goes off as engines cranked, the points are not closing or are bad,,,,,,,,or the wire or circuit is missing from the distributor to the points,,,,,or the distributors not well grounded to the tractor.

She cant fire the coil unless its low side is getting a conductive ground return path via closed points and then the circuit is open when the points open.

Be sure the condensor or its wiring is NOT shorted out and see if the lite comes on (when points open) with the condensor disconnected. If removing the condensor makes her spark, replace the condensor.

SUMMARY

Be sure the points are closing fully and open on high cam and ARE NOT BURNED OR PITTED OR CARBONED UP BADLY,,,,,,,theres voltage present on distributors high side at all times when ignitions on (or its a bad switch or open ballast or bad wiring to col),,,,,,,voltage on coils low side flashes on and off as distributor is cranked,,,,,,,,,condensors not bad/shorted,,,,,,,,no shorts in wires to points and no shorts in pass thru side out distributor stud,,,,,,,,coil has continuituy.

You may luck out n just need a new set of points. If the coil wire fires (see above) and the plug wire ends to 1/8 from frame but NOT the plugs, they are badddddddddddd. Check them BOTH.


John T
 
The copper piece from the side of distributor to points got broken and you replaced it with a #18 copper wire.
Did you check to make sure the insulator where it passes through the distributor housing is not broken also???????????

I betting the #18 wire he installed is touching the distributor case and is shorting to ground.
 
The copper piece from the side of distributor to points got broken and you replaced it with a #18 copper wire.
Did you check to make sure the insulator where it passes through the distributor housing is not broken also???????????

I betting the #18 wire he installed is touching the distributor case and is shorting to ground.
I agree. I suggested that earlier and sent him a message repeating that point.
 
I wouldn’t recommend this process to the average Joe who is having a problem with his points. More likely to burn your fingers than figure out your problem. It works for him and I suppose he burnt his fingers enough times he is trained like Pavlov’s dog. With the ignition on when the points are working properly a test light on the terminal coming out of the distributor should light when the points are open and go out when the points are closed. And flash while cranking. You have no resistor on your 6 volt 800 tractor. Either someone shot of their mouth on the other post you saw or the tractor was converted to 12 volts. The Ns were unusual in the fact that they used a resistor on a 6 volt system.
You have to be kidding. One doesn't use a bare wire one uses one with insulation
I wouldn’t recommend this process to the average Joe who is having a problem with his points. More likely to burn your fingers than figure out your problem. It works for him and I suppose he burnt his fingers enough times he is trained like Pavlov’s dog. With the ignition on when the points are working properly a test light on the terminal coming out of the distributor should light when the points are open and go out when the points are closed. And flash while cranking. You have no resistor on your 6 volt 800 tractor. Either someone shot of their mouth on the other post you saw or the tractor was converted to 12 volts. The Ns were unusual in the fact that they used a resistor on a 6 volt system.
You have to be kidding right?? The spark one gets is small and unless you use a super small wire it cannot get hot enough to burn you let alone do anything else. The points would burn up before the wire got hot enough to hurt a person
 
You have to be kidding. One doesn't use a bare wire one uses one with insulation

You have to be kidding right?? The spark one gets is small and unless you use a super small wire it cannot get hot enough to burn you let alone do anything else. The points would burn up before the wire got hot enough to hurt a person
I never said the #18 wire that I replaced was bare. The wire itself is insulated, but I will check to make sure it’s not shorting out to the inside of distributor case.
 

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