No spark on my Ford 800 after new points

I never said the #18 wire that I replaced was bare. The wire itself is insulated, but I will check to make sure it’s not shorting out to the inside of distributor case.
When I suggested a short, my focus was how you attached the wire to the points. You don't mention any sort of lug so, IF you simply wrapped the wire end around the post where the points attach it will short to the distributor internals.

I don't mean to question your skills in any way and I may be off the trail, but, I've seen this done.
 
When I suggested a short, my focus was how you attached the wire to the points. You don't mention any sort of lug so, IF you simply wrapped the wire end around the post where the points attach it will short to the distributor internals.

I don't mean to question your skills in any way and I may be off the trail, but, I've seen this done.
@Steve in VA believe it or not on a 560 my dad worked on, that dang little insulated connector got water in between the two halves, after it ran about 10 minutes it would run like crap, took me a long time to figure, I suppose there was moisture in the distributor and when it got warm it migrated there and condensed, cleaned that all out, after I found it and it ran like a champ
 
@Steve in VA believe it or not on a 560 my dad worked on, that dang little insulated connector got water in between the two halves, after it ran about 10 minutes it would run like crap, took me a long time to figure, I suppose there was moisture in the distributor and when it got warm it migrated there and condensed, cleaned that all out, after I found it and it ran like a champ
I can imagine that was a nightmare running to ground.
 
I can imagine that was a nightmare running to ground.
It was, especially since when you first started it the thing ran good, once it got a little warm then it would blubber and stutter barely idle, it was hard to figure out, tried a condenser, a different coil off a running tractor, absolutely no change, I was down to pulling valve cover thinking maybe the old man got a couple valves to tight, then I remembered, on my 700 Case that I pull, if I wash it when its warm before heading out, then the next day at the pull it would behave similar, somehow water can get in and it will condense on the cap, so started searching, nothing on the cap like the 700, finally decided that stud/ pass through was the only place left, sure enough, rusty water ran out when I pulled the outer piece off, cleaned stuff up with brake cleaner and the air hose, all was good, hasn't bothered again for at least two years!
 
When I suggested a short, my focus was how you attached the wire to the points. You don't mention any sort of lug so, IF you simply wrapped the wire end around the post where the points attach it will short to the distributor internals.

I don't mean to question your skills in any way and I may be off the trail, but, I've seen this done.
The #18 stranded wire was crimped on each end to an eyelid connector. However I must have tightened the outside of distributor connection too tight to allow that eyelid connector to make contact with inside of distributor as you mentioned. I added some rubber washers inside on that stud and tried not to over crank that stud and now I have spark on all cylinders
Thanks

Problem now is it still doesn’t start. Just pops and backfires. I rechecked my point gap. Thinking with new points the timing may be off.
Not sure what else backfiring tells me.
 
The #18 stranded wire was crimped on each end to an eyelid connector. However I must have tightened the outside of distributor connection too tight to allow that eyelid connector to make contact with inside of distributor as you mentioned. I added some rubber washers inside on that stud and tried not to over crank that stud and now I have spark on all cylinders
Thanks

Problem now is it still doesn’t start. Just pops and backfires. I rechecked my point gap. Thinking with new points the timing may be off.
Not sure what else backfiring tells me.
Plug wires re-arranged in distributor cap? That is, relative to the last time it ran right.
 
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The #18 stranded wire was crimped on each end to an eyelid connector. However I must have tightened the outside of distributor connection too tight to allow that eyelid connector to make contact with inside of distributor as you mentioned. I added some rubber washers inside on that stud and tried not to over crank that stud and now I have spark on all cylinders
Thanks

Problem now is it still doesn’t start. Just pops and backfires. I rechecked my point gap. Thinking with new points the timing may be off.
Not sure what else backfiring tells me.
👍
 
The points would burn up before the wire got hot enough to hurt a person
This is an incorrect statement, this is not a process you would find in any repair manual. It’s a hillbilly shortcut you should stop suggesting people use. Go ahead and use it for your own purposes, you can even coil up the end and short it to something while you set in the seat to light your cigarette.
 
This is an incorrect statement, this is not a process you would find in any repair manual. It’s a hillbilly shortcut you should stop suggesting people use. Go ahead and use it for your own purposes, you can even coil up the end and short it to something while you set in the seat to light your cigarette.
I've used it thousands of times and have shown many how to do it and it is a simple cheap way to test if the points are working as they should. I have NEVER had any issues when I di this test and it is so simple even a cave man could do it and you need just a simple piece of wore to do it plus it also make a good way to test the ignition wiring as in a simple hot wire
 
Problem now is it still doesn’t start. Just pops and backfires
Are you sure the spark plug wires are on in the correct order? If you choked it a lot when you were trying to start it you may have flooded it or caused “rich fuel fouling” of the plugs.
I've used it thousands of times and have shown many how to do it and it is a simple cheap way to test if the points are working as they should. I have NEVER had any issues when I di this test and it is so simple even a cave man could do it and you need just a simple piece of wore to do it plus it also make a good way to test the ignition wiring as in a simple hot wire
Showing someone is far different then telling someone how to do it who may barely understand how points work and the electrical circuit they make up. Stick with troubleshooting based out of a manual using a test light. Not a janky “hot wire” wielding fiasco. I don’t see anybody else chiming in saying “yours is the best way to check points for proper function.” This is it on this subject, I am not going to going back and forth with you and draw the focus of the thread away from this gentleman’s problem.
 
Are you sure the spark plug wires are on in the correct order? If you choked it a lot when you were trying to start it you may have flooded it or caused “rich fuel fouling” of the plugs.

Showing someone is far different then telling someone how to do it who may barely understand how points work and the electrical circuit they make up. Stick with troubleshooting based out of a manual using a test light. Not a janky “hot wire” wielding fiasco. I don’t see anybody else chiming in saying “yours is the best way to check points for proper function.” This is it on this subject, I am not going to going back and forth with you and draw the focus of the thread away from this gentleman’s problem.
Fine do it your way and I'll do it my way but from now on your ignored
 
Are you sure the spark plug wires are on in the correct order? If you choked it a lot when you were trying to start it you may have flooded it or caused “rich fuel fouling” of the plugs.

Showing someone is far different then telling someone how to do it who may barely understand how points work and the electrical circuit they make up. Stick with troubleshooting based out of a manual using a test light. Not a janky “hot wire” wielding fiasco. I don’t see anybody else chiming in saying “yours is the best way to check points for proper function.” This is it on this subject, I am not going to going back and forth with you and draw the focus of the thread away from this gentleman’s problem.
Come on man that’s how they did it Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea : ) where I am sure there was plenty of scrap wire just laying around. Test equipment and an understanding of how the system works who needs it… Save your scrap wire.

All BS aside the coil is a load sometimes you need to get down and dirty to test the integrity of the circuit replace the coil with a load of the same amp rating (4 amps) I use an automotive headlight in a bottle.
 

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Are you sure the spark plug wires are on in the correct order? If you choked it a lot when you were trying to start it you may have flooded it or caused “rich fuel fouling” of the plugs.

Showing someone is far different then telling someone how to do it who may barely understand how points work and the electrical circuit they make up. Stick with troubleshooting based out of a manual using a test light. Not a janky “hot wire” wielding fiasco. I don’t see anybody else chiming in saying “yours is the best way to check points for proper function.” This is it on this subject, I am not going to going back and forth with you and draw the focus of the thread away from this gentleman’s problem.
Well I will tell ya hillbillies that learned stuff on their own to keep their junk running is a total different situation than what a person learns in a Classroom to get a certificate to work on other peoples mechanical problems. And yes too much of that idiotic stuff spread on this site for the ones that actually want to learn how to do stuff. Mechanic’s , Electricians , plumbers or what ever have rules to follow. After all why is their instructors to teach individuals the correct way. Just come to this site and learn from hillbillies that some think are god as I call them cause they sure are not professional’s.
 

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