Not Thanksgiving related

Ultradog MN

Well-known Member
Location
Twin Cities
I got the rest of the drywall installed in the ceiling of my shop last week. About 640 sq. ft. My neighbor is going to feed the blower and we'll get the insulation in the attic this week.
It's too cold in there to tape it now so I'm back to getting the furnace installed.
The place is a total disaster right now but I moved stuff around enough to use the band saw.
I had this heavily built little table that I had no use for so I finangeled a way to get the legs into the saw and cut them down to 16" - the recommended height for installing a furnace in a shop or garage.
 

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Looks good. Did you use a panel lift? Having a warm shop is not a want, it's a "gotta have". I need to do the same to my ceiling. It just has wrap stapled up right now to keep the insulation up there. And I think an errant grandchild would find themselves rapidly descending to the shop floor if they tried to walk around in the attic (I also need more flooring up there). steve
 
Can you rotate the furnace 90*?? Seal off the existing filter opening and cut the other side open. Would gain space between the door and furnace. Or change out the door to reverse the swing.
 
I've used a 4 in. tube type gas fired, hung from the trusses. Its a radiant type heat, real nice for a shop.

Dusty
 
Can you rotate the furnace 90*?? Seal off the existing filter opening and cut the other side open. Would gain space between the door and furnace. Or change out the door to reverse the swing.
I think the existing opening has been cut with tinsnips. The positioning may be to allow the wall spacing to meet the furnace clearance requirements from drywall. (guess) Jim
 
I think the existing opening has been cut with tinsnips. The positioning may be to allow the wall spacing to meet the furnace clearance requirements from drywall. (guess) Jim
AFAIK, most furnaces can have the filter rack installed on either side of the furnace. There are no intake openings cut at the factory. Gas piping can come in from either side also.
 
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18 inches is minimum off the floor usually
Going to leave the heat on all the time to avoid freezing?
The ignition source (igniter or flame from thermocouple) and the burners have to be 18" above the floor. With the upflow air handler underneath, that usually covers the 18" requirement. Shouldn't put the tin base of the air handler on concrete or it will rust. Wood will rot over time. Something like trex decking works OK.

Install it on a stand and store something underneath. Move it up higher yet and you will need less vertical duct before going horizontal. Or have enough vertical duct to add an air conditioner coil later on.

Move it down to just off the floor and the return air will pull all the cold air off of the floor getting heated air down to the floor better for your toes and the animals.

You have plenty of room for combustion air and access to the front panel. Should be a placard inside that has wall clearance. Generally 1" to 3" is OK on the sides and 1" is common. But your ducting going up and over may need more space. Leave enough space behind to clean the dust mites and maybe get a paint brush and broom in there. Some of this depends on where your gas and electrical inputs are going to be. I think Ducane allows 1". Ducane made by Allied Air which is owned by Lennox so will be a basic Lennox design.

Your shop, do whatever you please. Your inspector has the final say.
 
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The ignition source (igniter or flame from thermocouple) and the burners have to be 18" above the floor. With the upflow air handler underneath, that usually covers the 18" requirement. Shouldn't put the tin base of the air handler on concrete or it will rust. Wood will rot over time. Something like trex decking works OK.

Install it on a stand and store something underneath. Move it up higher yet and you will need less vertical duct before going horizontal. Or have enough vertical duct to add an air conditioner coil later on.

Move it down to just off the floor and the return air will pull all the cold air off of the floor getting heated air down to the floor better for your toes and the animals.

You have plenty of room for combustion air and access to the front panel. Should be a placard inside that has wall clearance. Generally 1" to 3" is OK on the sides and 1" is common. But your ducting going up and over may need more space. Leave enough space behind to clean the dust mites and maybe get a paint brush and broom in there. Some of this depends on where your gas and electrical inputs are going to be. I think Ducane allows 1". Ducane made by Allied Air which is owned by Lennox so will be a basic Lennox design.

Your shop, do whatever you please. Your inspector has the final say.
Yea we always like to down flow shop heaters if possible
Blast that cold air off the floor
 
As of last night I have a heated garage.
Still have some wiring to do and need to install a thermostat.
And get the intake in - I just ran the exhaust pipe for now to test it.
And blow insulation into the attic.
And figure out how to keep the furnace from peeing all over the floor. And tape and mud the ceiling, And, contrive some duct work, and, and, and...
I ran it for about a half hour yesterday.
After working the last few days in 16 degree temps it sure was nice to warm the place up.
I really appreciate you guys for the advice you've given me on this project. Some of it was good advice, some of it not so good but in the spirit of this board, all of it was meant to help.
So thanks to all!
 

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