Old wood stove..

Looking to set up an old wood stove I picked up for this coming winter.. Basically I need to tear it down and fabricate some hinges, door frame, a leg or 2 etc.etc. I plan to have 6" single black pipe going out the wall. My shop is 10 ft. high and I am wanting to know what would be the most efficient and safest way to run the pipe, meaning how far the stove would be from the painted drywall and the height of the pipe running parallel from the ceiling. Where would I place the damper etc. etc. How far should the pipe be from the outside facia and how high above the roof line? I already have some of the pipe and the wall insulater, outside pipe support bracket.
18 inches from the insulated wall, probably no more than 3 ft of single wall pipe (essentially horizontal). As far from the ceiling as possible (I would insulate the ceiling 3 ft wide and over the stove to the wall. damper close to the stove with draft balance control.
With that said, the fire marshal and Insurance need to actually be consulted. Jim
 
Having insurance is one thing, but having your insurance company be aware of it is another. Does yours know? Did they look it over and approve it? If so, I've never heard of that happening. My daughter works for an insurance company and she says it is never even considered unless it has a UL (or whatever it is) rating.
It is on a cement floor in the basement with a brick wall behind it. Chimney is block with a clay liner. Agent took pictures of the whole set up when he was here to issue insurance. When the Boss insurance changed hands I thought they may check it again but so far nothing & that was about 3/4 years ago. Stove is welded 3/16 inch material.
 
here's an attempt to answer the question that you actually asked. Would need to know the basic dimensions of shop; if it is big enough there is no need to put it against the wall at all.

I have two doorways that are about six feet apart, leaving a strip this wide the length of the shop. The stove is right in the center of this strip between the doors. My wood burner is a piece of casing, 36" in diameter, stood up on end about 7 feet high. There is an additional 3 feet of riser of 8" gas line. From there it exits the building horizontally across one of the bays, where it doubles as a trolley track for a chain fall. It is constructed so that the horizontal pipe can be lifted off with a small skid steer for cleaning if necessary.

This setup uses 90% of the heat generated in the stove to heat the building, not go up the chimney (the percentage is a guess, admittedly, but when the casing is glowing, a hand can be laid on the pipe where it goes through the wall, so not very much heat is leaving the building).

I have no damper on mine ; if it gets too hot I just cut the air going into the stove.

About how to run the pipe; my philosophy is have as much exhaust pipe INSIDE the building as practicable. Why let out all the valuable heat?

And no, insurance company does not know about it. I made an eye on top of the stove so I can hook it with some machine and get it out of there before the adjuster sees it, in case of a serious fire.
"And no, insurance company does not know about it."

I know a guy who is a fire insurance investigator. He flies his personal airplane all over the country in his line of work. He would tell you stories that would make your blood run cold. Forget about fooling the fire investigators. It will not happen.
 

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