Oliver 77 just quit running one day

that8nguy

Member
In July of 2024 we got my uncle's Oliver 77 running which had been sitting for 21 years. In December around Christmas time we were using it one day and it was running just fine and we had just put new spark plugs in it which made it run better. The next day I went out to try to start it and it started right up ran for 5 seconds and then quit on me and haven't been able to get it started since. I am so confused and cannot figure it out so I'm going to take a compression test but I don't know why it would lose compression that fast and it has a fully rebuilt carburetor on it that was working fine the day before. It's still a 6 volt system and I'm working on 12v converting it so I'm hoping that will help. It does have one stuck valve that I am getting unstuck but would that cause it to not start could the points have gone bad? Do you have any ideas? Anything will help!
 
In July of 2024 we got my uncle's Oliver 77 running which had been sitting for 21 years. In December around Christmas time we were using it one day and it was running just fine and we had just put new spark plugs in it which made it run better. The next day I went out to try to start it and it started right up ran for 5 seconds and then quit on me and haven't been able to get it started since. I am so confused and cannot figure it out so I'm going to take a compression test but I don't know why it would lose compression that fast and it has a fully rebuilt carburetor on it that was working fine the day before. It's still a 6 volt system and I'm working on 12v converting it so I'm hoping that will help. It does have one stuck valve that I am getting unstuck but would that cause it to not start could the points have gone bad? Do you have any ideas? Anything will help!
Start by checking for spark to the sparkplugs.

Could be as simple as dirty breaker points, a broken wire in the primary circuit, or a failed ignition switch.
 
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Technically I'd say it wouldn't start if it only ran for "5 seconds" then quit.

You said "we" were using it. Did someone shut off the fuel and when you went to start it the next day it used what little fuel was left then died? Are you sure the fuel is on? If so, verify good flow to the carburetor. Verify spark. Report back.
 
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we as in my dad and i. I turned on the gas before I started it and after trying to start it I did check flow and it was a steady stream. I know it has spark because I checked however I can't say for sure it's Solid spark which is why I think the points and or condenser may have givin out
 
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As in sediment bowl? I have already changed that when we were getting it running and have cleaned it multiple times because there was crap in the tank but took the tank off and cleaned it so there shouldn't be any more in it
 
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As in sediment bowl? I have already changed that when we were getting it running and have cleaned it multiple times because there was crap in the tank but took the tank off and cleaned it so there shouldn't be any more in it
When you check gas flow did you check it by pulling the plug from the carb bowl and catching ti in a container to see how much you get in a full minute?
 
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we as in my dad and i. I turned on the gas before I started it and after trying to start it I did check flow and it was a steady stream. I know it has spark because I checked however I can't say for sure it's Solid spark which is why I think the points and or condenser may have givin out


After you get done checking the carb flow and if it's ok,

pull each plug and crank over tractor and see if it sparks when grounded against the engine. While you have the plugs out and are cranking it over looking for spark, check each hole for pressure against your thumb. You really don't need a ton of compression to get that Oliver to fire.
 
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It cranks over slow enough though that it seems like it has enough compression
I'm not familiar with that Oliver, so this might be a dumb response, but once I had the throttle on my Fergie turned down so low it would crank, but never fired. It just quit. Took me ten minutes before I figured it out. Couldn't for the life of me figure what happened. It was that simple.
 
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Something I like to use to test the points to move towards a good ignition on the spark side is a test light. Probe the terminal of the coil that has the wire to the distributor on it and the test light lead on a ground or part of the engine. With the ignition on and engine stopped if the points are closed the light should be out. This tells you they are contacting properly. When they open the light should be on. If not something is grounding out at your points or condenser, the insulated terminal that passes through the side of the distributor. When you crank the engine the light should flash on and off rapidly as the points open and close. When you get to this point you are about 85 percent of the way to a working reliable ignition.
 
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In July of 2024 we got my uncle's Oliver 77 running which had been sitting for 21 years. In December around Christmas time we were using it one day and it was running just fine and we had just put new spark plugs in it which made it run better. The next day I went out to try to start it and it started right up ran for 5 seconds and then quit on me and haven't been able to get it started since. I am so confused and cannot figure it out so I'm going to take a compression test but I don't know why it would lose compression that fast and it has a fully rebuilt carburetor on it that was working fine the day before. It's still a 6 volt system and I'm working on 12v converting it so I'm hoping that will help. It does have one stuck valve that I am getting unstuck but would that cause it to not start could the points have gone bad? Do you have any ideas? Anything will help!
A very rusty fuel system could plug a fuel filter or carburetor passages in only a few minutes. Sometimes raising the fuel pickup inside the fuel tank by an inch or two can reduce the problem until there is time to clean the fuel tank.
 
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Something I like to use to test the points to move towards a good ignition on the spark side is a test light. Probe the terminal of the coil that has the wire to the distributor on it and the test light lead on a ground or part of the engine. With the ignition on and engine stopped if the points are closed the light should be out. This tells you they are contacting properly. When they open the light should be on. If not something is grounding out at your points or condenser, the insulated terminal that passes through the side of the distributor. When you crank the engine the light should flash on and off rapidly as the points open and close. When you get to this point you are about 85 percent of the way to a working reliable ignition.
I will also try this thanks
 
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