Oliver 880 Mist Green Engine Removal

MistGreen880

New User
I am currently working on pulling the engine out of my Oliver 880 Diesel to overhaul it. It has a PTO and a Power-Booster. I read in the book that you have to pull the PTO shaft out first, and I'm wondering the reason for that and any tricks to get it out as mine seems to be stuck. Also trying to find out how to disconnect the power booster from the engine to remove it. I tried pulling the engine forward off splines and it went about 1" then stopped. I also heard that two engine mount bolts are different from the other two. I have one with a 13/16 head and three that are 3/4, is there anything special about the larger bolts? I've read the book and can't figure out what is going on here and why I can't just slide the engine forward off splines and lift it. Am I supposed to remove PTO shaft and unbolt the power booster and lift straight up?

Also, on the power booster, is the lever supposed to snap over center and pop in? Because mine just kind of goes forward easily makes a hollow thump against the clutch and doesn't seem to do anything.

Any help is appreciated.
 
The PTO runs from the rear all the way to the hub on the flywheel. Hopefully you didn't yank the engine hard and bend the shaft. They get stuck coming out because there are multiple splines on the shaft, similar to what you see here:
(this is a larger tractor but it still applies).
 
Well I haven’t gotten the shaft to come out at all. Is there a snap ring that I need to take out on that too? I unbolted the bearing retainer plate that it in between the transmission case and the pto clutch and it hasn’t moved yet.
 
It might take a little wiggling and pulling but that shaft will come out. You don't need to pull it all the way out. 2ft is plenty. Take the shield off around the power booster and remove the bolt holding the clutch together being very careful not to loose any of the shims. now you can lift the engine out. When you put it back together, those shims are use to set the power booster clutch. Remove the same amount of shims from each pack until the clutch is adjusted correctly. Yes, there are different sized bolts to mount the engine. This is so everything is in line. Make sure you have the correct bolts in the correct holes.
 
What holes had the larger bolts? I had one larger bolts in the front driver's-side engine mount and the other three were smaller. Where are the bolts on the power-booster clutch? I couldn't find them and the book wasn't very descriptive.
 
Well I haven’t gotten the shaft to come out at all. Is there a snap ring that I need to take out on that too? I unbolted the bearing retainer plate that it in between the transmission case and the pto clutch and it hasn’t moved yet.
You'll have to drive a big screwdriver or something between that bearing carrier and the housing to pop it loose. Or pry against the back of the clutch pack.
 
Also, does anyone know what the power-booster lever should feel like? I've heard it snaps over center and mine has no snap to it.
It Should have an Over-Center "Snap" as You say. The Clutches and the Mechanical Workings are the Same as the PTO setup and thus should feel the same.
No "Snap", Your Clutches are Worn out or in need of Shim Removal. I would recommend changing the two Discs as there is not a whole lot of lining Material there to begin with.
 
What holes had the larger bolts? I had one larger bolts in the front driver's-side engine mount and the other three were smaller. Where are the bolts on the power-booster clutch? I couldn't find them and the book wasn't very descriptive.
The Bolts that Ken L was referring too, are the Six Fine Thread Bolts that Hold the Clutch Assembly together. (They Hold the Fan Segments Also)
 
It Should have an Over-Center "Snap" as You say. The Clutches and the Mechanical Workings are the Same as the PTO setup and thus should feel the same.
No "Snap", Your Clutches are Worn out or in need of Shim Removal. I would recommend changing the two Discs as there is not a whole lot of lining Material there to begin with.
I was able to get the engine out, and now see how it would snap over center. Looks like there was only one pin holding the clutch spider to the throw out bearing, and the spot it was in was broken out. Thanks for all the help.
 
MistGreen880, most of the people on hear have probably read my suggesting that the best thing you can do is you are working on your tractor is to buy a FACTORY service manual. The factory manual has all of the information you should need to repair and maintain your tractor The best place to get that manual is the Floyd County Museum in Charles City, Iowa. You can still learn some shortcuts from the experienced people on this forum.
 

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