Oliver Gas governor bearing

rrlund

Well-known Member
So, on this 1600 gas that sized up on me the other day because the governor ran away. I know that bearing at the front of the governor shaft is bad and that's probably what happened. I would have bet the farm that those governors would be pretty much the same on all of the Oliver/Waukesha gas engines. I just went through about ten different models on Agcopartsbooks and found some with the same part number as the 1600, some that aren't. The 770-880, 1600, 1550 and 1650 all came up with the same part number. There's four different listings for a Super 55, one out of the four matches the 1600, the rest are different. 88 and Super 88 were different, Super 66 and 660 was different, which surprised me, I figured they'd be broken down maybe like the Super 55 and have different choices. The one difference I can see is that some have two pieces plus the spool, the other ones have three pieces and the spool. The ones with two pieces, there's a groove in the spool and the bearing runs in that instead of in the third piece (washer) that runs up against the spool.

Does anybody know, will they interchange from say, a 66 or 77 if you use the whole spool with the groove in it and the two piece bearing? Or, is that bearing still available anywhere or are they NOS everywhere? There's a boneyard close to home with a lot of Fleetlines and a Super and three digit here and there where I can probably get one, but I don't want to ask Johnny to take any of them apart if they're not going to interchange.

The part number in the 1600 and the other ones that came up the same, is 156607-A subbed to 156390-AS.
 
Last edited:
Engine seized up? Any damage?
Had a 400 Farmall run away due to the rod falling out. Man, did it roar, but got it shut off. No damage.
Engine sized, yes. I don't know about damage, we took the loader off right after it happened, put it on the 1550 and pushed the 1600 inside out of the way. We spent all day Tuesday putting a two inch bearing in the bottom auger on the feed mixer and I'm in no hurry to work out in the cold taking that tractor apart when we don't really need it right away. I bought another 1600 parts tractor in pieces a while back. Those parts are all in buckets and rotten boxes, most are rusted up. I don't know if there are any governor parts in that mess or not. It's not all there, I do know that much. If that bearing is among that stuff, it might take some time and a lot of luck to find it.

We just had the crank ground and put new bearings in the one that seized, back in August. I'm going to pull the PTO long shaft before I pull the engine of try to get the pan off in frame. I've never heard of anything seizing in the pump or the rear bearing in the shaft, but it'd the kind of thing I usually find after I spend a day taking something else apart. It'll have to come out anyway to get the engine out, so I've got nothing to loose pulling that first. The fan moves about a quarter inch when I try the starter, so it's not a locked starter. I'm not going to keep trying to turn it and gaul the crank even worse.
 
RR I was wondering how you made out? I can't help with the part but I am sure others can. I am no 1600 guru but just a thought, drop the pan and lightly loosen the rods one by one (or mains) Try to spin her by hand. That will tell you where the issue is. I hope it is an easy fix for you. May be its time to go look at that Moline UB! And to make you feel better I AM A GURU OF ENGINE FAILURE I have had more than my share!
 
RR I was wondering how you made out? I can't help with the part but I am sure others can. I am no 1600 guru but just a thought, drop the pan and lightly loosen the rods one by one (or mains) Try to spin her by hand. That will tell you where the issue is. I hope it is an easy fix for you. May be its time to go look at that Moline UB! And to make you feel better I AM A GURU OF ENGINE FAILURE I have had more than my share!
The bugger of it is, it's a devil of a job to get to those front pan bolts without lifting the front of the engine up. Just the way it sized up, it sounded like a main bearing to me. That was all that was ground this past summer was the mains. The rods are still standard, the mains were ground .010. We had to wait a little while to get the right bearings for that. The worst part of it is, those 1600s have an idiot light instead of a gauge. It had pressure enough to shut off the light, but I honestly couldn't tell you what the actual oil pressure was. I pulled the dip stick right after it happened. The oil was clean and right up to the full mark. There's a decent looking 1650 gas for sale not too terrible far away. I've been wanting another small frame four digit to build a project that I've had in mind. I'm pondering buying that 1650 and putting the loader on it and using this 1600 for that project. It feels like it might be opportunity falling in my lap.

I've got six of those shelving boxes that I bought at an auction that came out of an old Oliver dealership. I had never taken everything out of them to see exactly was was in them. I took everything out this afternoon on the off chance that there'd be one of those bearings in there. There wasn't, but I was surprised at some of the new parts that are in there. Heck of it is, by the time I need any of them, I'll probably forget I have them. In my mind, I had one of those bearings here someplace, tied together with a white string, but if there is, I don't know where it is anymore.
 
Last edited:
On that stuff I don't care for idiot light. There is a oil pressure gauge test kit you can use to determine oil pressure. Basically a guage with lots of fitting you put in the oil gallery. I certainly understand the having all kind of parts and can't find what you need to you go but one. SO WHAT IS THIS PROJECT? And is the 1600 one you can repower with a cummings 4 or 6 bt? That would solve your issue
 
On that stuff I don't care for idiot light. There is a oil pressure gauge test kit you can use to determine oil pressure. Basically a guage with lots of fitting you put in the oil gallery. I certainly understand the having all kind of parts and can't find what you need to you go but one. SO WHAT IS THIS PROJECT? And is the 1600 one you can repower with a cummings 4 or 6 bt? That would solve your issue
Ya, I've got a good test gauge kit here. The only bearings I didn't put in new were the cam bearings. When the light went off right after I started it the first time, I just didn't bother to take the sending unit out and use it. I figured it was good enough. Maybe it was, maybe it wasn't.
 
Ya, I've got a good test gauge kit here. The only bearings I didn't put in new were the cam bearings. When the light went off right after I started it the first time, I just didn't bother to take the sending unit out and use it. I figured it was good enough. Maybe it was, maybe it wasn't.
I use my tester more for stuff like sending unit failure or questionable guage. Or engine not hooked up to get idea of oil pressure. I am wondering if you have a crank or bearing and cap issue from the previous debalacle. Might need aline bore job.
 
I think I might have just found a source for those bearings. I'll have to take that governor apart and get some measurements, but a place called North East Parts dot com has a whole bunch of those "thrust ball bearings". They look just like what the governors take, if I can just find the correct size.
 
I think I might have just found a source for those bearings. I'll have to take that governor apart and get some measurements, but a place called North East Parts dot com has a whole bunch of those "thrust ball bearings". They look just like what the governors take, if I can just find the correct size.
I think that's a commonly used bearing. I pulled off the governor on my 1550 and found the balls were worn a bit so the cage rubbed on the flange and wore enough off so a few of the balls had dropped out. But I got lucky. FIL had salted away some NOS parts for his COOPs and I found one in with them.
 
I think that's a commonly used bearing. I pulled off the governor on my 1550 and found the balls were worn a bit so the cage rubbed on the flange and wore enough off so a few of the balls had dropped out. But I got lucky. FIL had salted away some NOS parts for his COOPs and I found one in with them.
I haven't taken mine off yet to measure it, but that place has them down to 10mm. I got out the mic and slid it out to 10. Just from my memory of that shaft, I'm thinking it might be somewhere around 10 or 12. They have both. Price is around $25.
 
I haven't taken mine off yet to measure it, but that place has them down to 10mm. I got out the mic and slid it out to 10. Just from my memory of that shaft, I'm thinking it might be somewhere around 10 or 12. They have both. Price is around $25.
I just remembered I had a spare governor in the basement. The balls are .187 diameter on a .9375 dia. circle. 3/16 and 15/16.
 
I just remembered I had a spare governor in the basement. The balls are .187 diameter on a .9375 dia. circle. 3/16 and 15/16.
What I found. New one bottom right.
 

Attachments

  • S5001448.JPG
    S5001448.JPG
    95.4 KB · Views: 23
3/16 is the ball diameter. 15/16 is the diameter of the ball circle, like a bolt circle, center to center of the balls.
OK, I thought that was awful small for the center hole. Do you know what the center hole and outside diameter are?
 
Looking at some catalogs I see what you need. It seems they are part of a set with the two races, not the individual ball/cage unit. Can't measure that for you.
Ya, I'll have to get it apart and see why the engine seized before I even know if I'm going to fix it. That size makes way more sense though. I thought at first that it was a typo and the center was 3/8 instead of 3/16. The weather's going to have to warm up some before I push it in the shop and mess with it.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top