One more time should be easy, Nope

[rock54]

Ford 9 N runs great until last week. A little history Bought this tractor for a parts tractor, I all ready had a 2 N , ended up rebuilding the 9 N from ground up all new engine parts from YT. This 9N has ran great or the last 6 years then last week it died as i was hauling my trailer form yard to house to paint the bed. As usual I just thought it ran out of gas, Nope had 1/2 tank so I pulled the carb cleaned and replaced, Nope pulled strainer bulb cleaned bulb along with blowing out fuel line from carb to tank, gas flowed great, connected fuel line up to the newly clean carb, Nope Pulled spark plugs and cleaned and replaced, Nope Charged 6 volt battery, Nope hooked up charger with start mode, Nope Put spark plug testers on all 4 spark plugs, only 4 and 3 lit up but 3 was not as bright as 4 1 and 2 did not fire the lite.
I know there are many posts that go over how to test and eliminate possible failures. I just wondered if maybe the experts here could go thru the sequence of testing one more time because i have a hard time finding then sorting thru old threads. I think I have eliminated the folling components Starter switch, spark plugs, battery, fuel system, Have new 00 battery cables that are clean, Replaced fuel with new non ethanol gas, assumption if I have strong spark at the number 4 plug the coil should be good, MY brain says it must be Cap, Points, condenser . or Rotor! But my brain is getting old I may have missed something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[HarryVanderpool]

Let me tell you about my experience with our 2N since 1987.
Our 2N ALWAYS runs 100% perfect.....or not at all.
Whenever I have an issue like yours, I pull the distributor and install new points.
It then runs 100% perfect..... until the next time it doesn't.
No testing, no stress, just points. Points are cheap.
Otherwise, it purrs like a kitten.

 

[Jim L WA]

While you have the distributor out to put in new point like Harry suggests, check the distributor shaft for wobble. While you are there you might as well replace the cap and rotor too. However I would not do all three (points, cap and rotor) at once. Points first, then cap and rotor.
Let us know.

 

[rock54]

Pulled cap and rotor both look brand new no carbon on any of the contacts. What is the test for a 6 volt coil I have an extra one the one that's on the 9n now. checked ohms on both 9n red 7.2 spare red 6.7.

 

[rock54]

Did notice the cork gasket between cap and coil was missing but there was no dirt , dust or oil on the inside of either cap or coil. where is the best place to get a new gasket?

 

[HarryVanderpool]

Did notice the cork gasket between cap and coil was missing but there was no dirt , dust or oil on the inside of either cap or coil. where is the best place to get a new gasket?

Points.

 

[wore out]

Pulled cap and rotor both look brand new no carbon on any of the contacts. What is the test for a 6 volt coil I have an extra one the one that's on the 9n now. checked ohms on both 9n red 7.2 spare red 6.7.

What does your Ohmmeter read with the leads touched together?

 

[rock54]

What does your Ohmmeter read with the leads touched together?

000.0

 

[JMOR]

000.0

Something or someone is wrong somewhere, as 6 -7 Ohms is far too large for any known coil, especially a front mount.....about 10X too high.

 

[rock54]

Something or someone is wrong somewhere, as 6 -7 Ohms is far too large for any known coil, especially a front mount.....about 10X too high.

Set my new ohm meter to ohms it registers O.L When set to K it reads 6.98 when set to V it reads 2.368 set to M 6.98

 

[rock54]

Set my new ohm meter to ohms it registers O.L When set to K it reads 6.98 when set to V it reads 2.368 set to M 6.98

I'm not very goof with electrical readings using my new Kaiweets HT118A VOM.

 

[JMOR]

Kaiweets HT118A

Looking at picture of your meter and I see no "K"?

 

[rock54]

Looking at picture of your meter and I see no "K"?

i PUT IT ON OHMS HIT FUNCTION BOTTON It reads M, PUSH FUNC READS BEEP, POSH FUNC BOTTON READS V, PUSH FUNC BOTTON READS M AGAIN, IT DOED FLASK K FOR A FEW SECONDS THEN CHANGES TO M.

 

[baughmama]

I'd do points first. Maybe start with cleaning them and reset the gap but they're pretty cheap to replace. Just make sure you set the gap correctly when installing. I recently chased an ignition problem for a while after resurrecting an 8n. I replaced every part of the ignition circuit except the coil and then I went back to Occam's razor. I had failed to set the points gap when I installed the first time, that was the problem all along. I cursed and mumbled "keep it simple stupid" to myself but was soon thrilled to hear it fire up for the first time in 25+ years.



Following Occam's razor for your situation, I would guess your points simply fouled out over time.

 

[wore out]

i PUT IT ON OHMS HIT FUNCTION BOTTON It reads M, PUSH FUNC READS BEEP, POSH FUNC BOTTON READS V, PUSH FUNC BOTTON READS M AGAIN, IT DOED FLASK K FOR A FEW SECONDS THEN CHANGES TO M.

You mite want to back up and catch your breath and try again, not much usable info for those that want to help you in "IT DOED FLASK K FOR A FEW SECONDS", IMHO!

 

[olddavid]

The meter seems a bit tricky to operate. The meter has a lot of functions but that adds to the confusion. Sometimes (most times) simpler is better. Does the K mean Kohms? If so you may be doing something wrong. Maybe on the wrong resistance range. I would assume M might mean Megohms? Are you touching the bare leads with your fingers? If you are not making a good connection across the coil the meter may be measuring the resistance between your fingers which will generally be in the megohms. Auto ranging meters can trick you into thinking you have continuity when you don't. Looking at the manual didn't help me a lot. Whoever wrote it wasn't from here.

 

[JMOR]

The meter seems a bit tricky to operate. The meter has a lot of functions but that adds to the confusion. Sometimes (most times) simpler is better. Does the K mean Kohms? If so you may be doing something wrong. Maybe on the wrong resistance range. I would assume M might mean Megohms? Are you touching the bare leads with your fingers? If you are not making a good connection across the coil the meter may be measuring the resistance between your fingers which will generally be in the megohms. Auto ranging meters can trick you into thinking you have continuity when you don't. Looking at the manual didn't help me a lot. Whoever wrote it wasn't from here.

"

Whoever wrote it wasn't from here." I have been working with a PID controller with instruction sheet like that.......a LOT is lost in the "attempted" translation!!!!!

 

[Btzj02]

i PUT IT ON OHMS HIT FUNCTION BOTTON It reads M, PUSH FUNC READS BEEP, POSH FUNC BOTTON READS V, PUSH FUNC BOTTON READS M AGAIN, IT DOED FLASK K FOR A FEW SECONDS THEN CHANGES TO M.

I am not familiar with your meter but is it possible you are changing the scale? K equals 1000s Ohms, M equals 1,000,000 Ohms?

 

[rock54]

I am not familiar with your meter but is it possible you are changing the scale? K equals 1000s Ohms, M equals 1,000,000 Ohms?

Ok figured out VOM settings First coil that was on tractor tested from top terminal to pigs tail looking terminal it measured .7
tested spare coil same way measured .7 What reading should i be looking for (specs)

 

[rock54]

Did notice the cork gasket between cap and coil was missing but there was no dirt , dust or oil on the inside of either cap or coil. where is the best place to get a new gasket?

Looking in my shed there is a box labeled carburetors and in this box I found a baggy and in the baggy I found Three new cork gaskets for my distributer to cap. I just need to get organized.