Paint questions - Reducer - Hardner

[dhermesc]

I am going to paint an old cub. Years back when I painted my 350 I had a friend that was known for "shooting" paint do the sheet metal after I prepped it. It looked great except the paint (Rustoleum) was soft for over a year. Eventually it hardened but taking off and putting the hood had messed with the paint around the screw holes. I think this may have been the result of him using a lot of reducer to get it to spray - but no hardener at all.

This time I am going to paint it using Rustoleum. I have only found Rustoleum reducer by the gallon and as high priced as the paint. What else will work with their implement enamel paint? Some people say acetone will work - but 8 to 16 ounces should do a gallon of paint (10% acetone 90% paint). What are peopel using for hardener? I was thinking of using this:

 

[WESnIL]

Make sure that your paint, reducer, and hardener are compatible. Your paint supplier should have the answers.

 

[Stephen Newell]

I am going to paint an old cub. Years back when I painted my 350 I had a friend that was known for "shooting" paint do the sheet metal after I prepped it. It looked great except the paint (Rustoleum) was soft for over a year. Eventually it hardened but taking off and putting the hood had messed with the paint around the screw holes. I think this may have been the result of him using a lot of reducer to get it to spray - but no hardener at all.

This time I am going to paint it using Rustoleum. I have only found Rustoleum reducer by the gallon and as high priced as the paint. What else will work with their implement enamel paint? Some people say acetone will work - but 8 to 16 ounces should do a gallon of paint (10% acetone 90% paint). What are peopel using for hardener? I was thinking of using this:



View attachment 87324

It sounds like either the hardener wasn't used or an insufficient amount. When using automotive paint they give specific amounts of paint and hardener. The solvent isn't quite as critical. Too little thinner would cause orange peal. A little too much would kill the sheen and not cover well. With the paint and hardener correct it would harden. It's sort of like mixing epoxy glue, if you don't use the hardener or not enough it won't harden. The bad thing is when it comes time to paint the 350 again the paint should be stripped to the metal. It may seem hard but is gummy compared to what it's suppose to be and putting a hard paint over a soft one is asking for trouble.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

There is no "paint supplier" for RUSTOLEUM. Closest thing is going to be the teenage girl at the Tractor Supply checkout counter. It's a pretty safe bet that nobody that works in the store has any idea.

I've found a couple of forums online that say the Majic hardener that's sold at Tractor Supply works with Rustoleum.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Also, the spec sheet for the Farm & Implement paint says thin with simple mineral spirits up to 15%:

https://www.rustoleum.com/-/media/B18D45D8D6154B1FAB2831840F056422.pdf

 

[dhermesc]

Also, the spec sheet for the Farm & Implement paint says thin with simple mineral spirits up to 15%:

https://www.rustoleum.com/-/media/B18D45D8D6154B1FAB2831840F056422.pdf

I think mineral spirits is what extends the time it takes to dry - especially if you are not using hardner.

 

[Stephen Newell]

The Restoration Shop line of paint is an acrylic enamel paint and shouldn't be thinned with mineral spirits. You use a reducer for that, preferably made by the same company that makes the paint.