Power Steering Question

[300guy]

My 300 has I am pretty sure a Char-lynn power steering add on. It has started leaking out the front seal area. My question is is better to try to replace the seal or spend the $500 and replace it. The steering in not that powerful at times so not sure if a new one would help that.
Also does anyone know of a good source for a new unit. The only places I found reasonable listed it at $499i or $599. I am not sure I really want to over haul it as it looks very complex with lots of the little parts. I have worked on Zero turn wheel motors and pumps but this looks a LOT harder then those!!!! Of course I have a loader on my 300 and would have to take the front off to get the steering shaft out so the power ssteering can be remove to fix or replace.
Whats everyone's thoughts????

 

[Janicholson]

If you can get the front sheet metal off, I think the shaft can be moved forward enough to take out the worm. Taking images every step of the way is pretty good insurance. marking the clocking of the components is also best practices. I would do it, but I have experience with like equipment. Jim

 

[300guy]

I’ve many years ago head to replace the bolster shaft so I’ve had that front end all apart. Plus did two of the when I was a kid with my Dad. So I’m pretty sure I can get the power steering motor out just me sure I want to do work one the motor. Trouble is the cost of a new unit.

 

[300guy]

Dang phone plugs in words I didn’t want!! Like head for had and me for not.

 

[300guy]

My main question is has anyone replaced the seal only, can it be done one the tractor, and how successful have you been? Or is it better to replace it??

 

[46m]

Put in a bottle of lucus stop Leck for motors that will stop the leak and help with the steering also.

 

[wore out]

My 300 has I am pretty sure a Char-lynn power steering add on. It has started leaking out the front seal area. My question is is better to try to replace the seal or spend the $500 and replace it. The steering in not that powerful at times so not sure if a new one would help that.
Also does anyone know of a good source for a new unit. The only places I found reasonable listed it at $499i or $599. I am not sure I really want to over haul it as it looks very complex with lots of the little parts. I have worked on Zero turn wheel motors and pumps but this looks a LOT harder then those!!!! Of course I have a loader on my 300 and would have to take the front off to get the steering shaft out so the power ssteering can be remove to fix or replace.
Whats everyone's thoughts????

It's not a big deal to replace that output seal.

Contact the folks at the link below for parts and helpful information.

https://www.midweststeering.com/

 

[300guy]

I think I have found a guy who has several rebuilt units at not to bad of a price rather than the $1300 to $1900 ones.
Another person told me he used a unit from NAPA that they sell for people who wanted power steering on a restored older vehicle. It is an Eton unit and he said it would fit right in place of my unit. Only problem he was driving and did not remember or if he had the NAPA number. Anyone know of such an item???
Also I don't remember if the steering wheel and shaft can be easily slide upward over the seat? The parts book doesn't show it very well. If it does and I can slide it up, removing the front coupler and taking the unit out without needing to remove the worm shaft, front of the loader and front end apart would make it a WHOLE lot easier!!!!
My steering motor is a 365 423 R93 which is from what can gather a 101D or C unit. The one guy said a 207 should replace this unit and be a lot more powerful.

 

[wore out]

I think I have found a guy who has several rebuilt units at not to bad of a price rather than the $1300 to $1900 ones.
Another person told me he used a unit from NAPA that they sell for people who wanted power steering on a restored older vehicle. It is an Eton unit and he said it would fit right in place of my unit. Only problem he was driving and did not remember or if he had the NAPA number. Anyone know of such an item???
Also I don't remember if the steering wheel and shaft can be easily slide upward over the seat? The parts book doesn't show it very well. If it does and I can slide it up, removing the front coupler and taking the unit out without needing to remove the worm shaft, front of the loader and front end apart would make it a WHOLE lot easier!!!!
My steering motor is a 365 423 R93 which is from what can gather a 101D or C unit. The one guy said a 207 should replace this unit and be a lot more powerful.

Your unit is a Char-Lynn "torque generator".

Char-Lynn is now owned by Eaton.

I gave you a very helpful link towards parts, help, and a reasonable repair (which you have apparently ignored), so GO for the $2000.00 "fix" whatever makes you happy, I'm SORRY I tried to help you!

BTW, you are an "askhole". GOOGLE it.

 

[used red MN]

Your unit is a Char-Lynn "torque generator".

Char-Lynn is now owned by Eaton.

I gave you a very helpful link towards parts, help, and a reasonable repair (which you have apparently ignored), so GO for the $2000.00 "fix" whatever makes you happy, I'm SORRY I tried to help you!

BTW, you are an "askhole". GOOGLE it.

Wow, did you drink some of rustreds koolaid? So he didn’t seem to take your advice no need to draw snd quarter him over that!
I will echo the information you gave is a very good company to work with. Changing the quad-rings out on the input and output shafts is not real difficult. Pull the bolts out and pull each end cap one at a time. You don’t have to pull all the insides apart, where the more complex items are in. Through Midwest you can get the instructions on how to put everything back together correctly if something does come apart.

 

[cleddy]

Wow, did you drink some of rustreds koolaid? So he didn’t seem to take your advice no need to draw snd quarter him over that!
I will echo the information you gave is a very good company to work with. Changing the quad-rings out on the input and output shafts is not real difficult. Pull the bolts out and pull each end cap one at a time. You don’t have to pull all the insides apart, where the more complex items are in. Through Midwest you can get the instructions on how to put everything back together correctly if something does come apart.

I agree with replacing the seals from the mentioned supplier above. Very easy to take the end off and replace the Quad O ring. I dd that and had good outcome. I would take the unit off and do the repair on a clean work bench. Good practice give good results???

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Put in a bottle of lucus stop Leck for motors that will stop the leak and help with the steering also.

I really don't have any faith in bottle fixes like that. Until...

I have a 1-ton dump with a Heil gear pump, which leaked profusely. I used to look under the truck in the morning and judge by the size of the puddle whether I had enough oil to make one more run.

My nephew had been in there the day before working on his power steering and left behind a box full of various oils, among these a couple bottles of Lucas sealant. Being broke with no oil on hand , I just dumped all of this different stuff in the reservoir, with no thought to fixing the leak, just to get down the road. Didn't matter to me about mixing all these oils together, I figured they'd be leaked out in a couple days anyway.

It quit leaking the next day. I can't say I haven't put ANY oil in it the last 10 years, but oil consumption went down 99%. Apparently Lucas stop leak can't do anything about the chevron packing in the gland.

The point of the story is for a few bucks, just give it a try. I used to be vehemently against these products.

 

[300guy]

WHOA!!!! Some people here got up of the wrong side of the bed and cannot READ!!!! First of all I have NEVER called anyone on the site an AS$%^&E!!! But I might call someone that now. No wonder Tractor Vet left the site.
Yes I know it is a torque generator which is a hydraulic motor. Much easier to type motor then torque generator.
Second my tractor is 2 hours away so I just can't walk out to the shop and work on it!!!!!

Third if you read it I found one a LOT less than the 1300n to the 1900!!!!

Fourth I KNOW Eaton bought out Char-Lynn. Where do you think I got the MOTOR numbers!!! I also have the repair instruction sheets for this unit. But I have an old low powered motor. If I get the one I am thinking about buying it is 4 improved steps above mine now and has more power!!!. So why would I overhaul a 5 hp engine on my lawnmower when I replace it with a 10 hp????? So for all the NEGATIVE comments by someone, he does not have all the facts and needs to shut his mouth and just give information, NOT calling people names!!!!

Fifth the seal/bearing kit costs $200, add in two trips to the farm for gas at about $60 so now I am at $320. Supposedly NAPA has one if I can find the part number for cars is $300. I can get a completely rebuilt one with a year's warranty for $600. NOW put that in your pipe and smoke that!!!! If I repaired mine and it didn't work, I'd be out of a fair amount of money. I don't like being called names for just asking for some information!!!! If you don't like what I am going to do them shut the dang computer off and go do something else!!!!!

Seems like the last few weeks all everyone can do on this site is complain because someone doesn't do what they suggest!!!!! There is no need for that!!!!!! If you can't give some advice and if the person doesn't do what you said, then IGNORE IT!!!!!!! Let them screw up!!!!!

This just well might be my last post on this site if this is the type of help I get. I asked for some help on the NAPA number and if the steering wheel shaft could be pushed to the rear and this is what I got!!!!!

 

[used red MN]

Fifth the seal/bearing kit costs $200

Did you check the price of a seal kit from Midwest in wore out’s reply? I know it was $25 about 10 years ago, maybe it is $200 now IDK? I did see and understand the way you had stated and compared the $1300 - $1900 figure to other options you found, it appears someone else made the numbers fit their story. You can obviously do whatever you want, forum discussion from experience and opinion is for consideration. It does seem more and more that if you don’t take what folks type here as the “gospel” and drop immediately to their every whim they get sore on their backside Best of luck, hope your get it fixed to your appropriate level of satisfaction.
Editing to add: I have not worked on a 300 with power steering, neither the 300 or 350 we had on the farm had power steering. I think the steering wheel will slide back, however I don’t think that will solve your removal problem of the torque generator (TG) I think the only way the TG will come out as you propose would be if the coupler to the worm shaft would slide forward on the shaft enough to clear the end of the TG shaft. Otherwise you are going to have to get to the steering box to undo the nut to slide the worm gear/shaft forward to disengage it from the TG or shaft coupler. The TG will not move towards the rear of the tractor due to the mount bracket won’t allow it. I am not sure what all has to be loosened to get that back piece the TG mount bracket is bolted on to move back. I am talking about part 3 in the link. CNHI Farmall 300 parts catalog I don’t see the center support bushing that mounts on that bracket as a none PS tractor would have in Chassis subsection 314. The stock PS set up I believe is a Behlen unit. It does not mount like your Charlynn, it is shown in the Attachments “Functional Group” in subsection 359. FYI, my experience all comes from a Charlynn PS setup on my Farmall M.

 

[rustred]

Wow, did you drink some of rustreds koolaid? So he didn’t seem to take your advice no need to draw snd quarter him over that!
I will echo the information you gave is a very good company to work with. Changing the quad-rings out on the input and output shafts is not real difficult. Pull the bolts out and pull each end cap one at a time. You don’t have to pull all the insides apart, where the more complex items are in. Through Midwest you can get the instructions on how to put everything back together correctly if something does come apart.

holy, how in the heck did i even fit into this post with my name and koolaid ??? yep 300 has it correct !!! few of us give the good correct info then the side trackers get them all muddled up just because they have no clue and cant read properly and need to post something. the op has no clue as to which info to choose after that as they usually choose the simplest thing they understand. i cant even compare this to bee's as they all work together. plus it seams like a big competition around here with a few people.

 

[used red MN]

holy, how in the heck did i even fit into this post with my name and koolaid ??? yep 300 has it correct !!! few of us give the good correct info then the side trackers get them all muddled up just because they have no clue and cant read properly and need to post something. the op has no clue as to which info to choose after that as they usually choose the simplest thing they understand. i cant even compare this to bee's as they all work together. plus it seams like a big competition around here with a few people.

I know I vowed to be nice to you, but anybody who reads this forum will tell you that if poster’s doesn’t follow your suggestions and promptly you jump on them. It’s a fact. If you think that typing something here is a waste of your time because the poster doesn’t follow your wishes then do as 300 said above “IGNORE IT!!!!!!! Let them screw up!!!!!” Ask the highwayman who had the SMTA timing post. You poured some of your Koolaid on him, unfortunately he figured out what to do about it.

 

[rustred]

I know I vowed to be nice to you, but anybody who reads this forum will tell you that if poster’s doesn’t follow your suggestions and promptly you jump on them. It’s a fact. If you think that typing something here is a waste of your time because the poster doesn’t follow your wishes then do as 300 said above “IGNORE IT!!!!!!! Let them screw up!!!!!” Ask the highwayman who had the SMTA timing post. You poured some of your Koolaid on him, unfortunately he figured out what to do about it.

Ya ok , you’re the captain. Seams your the one jumping on me lots of times. And how would u know he figured it out. Look at the case no start deal, only interested to give the thumbs up. Lol. I at least expect the op ‘s to make some sort of attempt. And I don’t type the whole story all at once like u do. I expect them to have a clue on the subject. No different than following a manual. And I like to see the job finished is the way I work. Once u get old u stop being nice and just tell the truth.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

WHOA!!!! Some people here got up of the wrong side of the bed and cannot READ!!!! First of all I have NEVER called anyone on the site an AS$%^&E!!! But I might call someone that now. No wonder Tractor Vet left the site.
Yes I know it is a torque generator which is a hydraulic motor. Much easier to type motor then torque generator.
Second my tractor is 2 hours away so I just can't walk out to the shop and work on it!!!!!

Third if you read it I found one a LOT less than the 1300n to the 1900!!!!

Fourth I KNOW Eaton bought out Char-Lynn. Where do you think I got the MOTOR numbers!!! I also have the repair instruction sheets for this unit. But I have an old low powered motor. If I get the one I am thinking about buying it is 4 improved steps above mine now and has more power!!!. So why would I overhaul a 5 hp engine on my lawnmower when I replace it with a 10 hp????? So for all the NEGATIVE comments by someone, he does not have all the facts and needs to shut his mouth and just give information, NOT calling people names!!!!

Fifth the seal/bearing kit costs $200, add in two trips to the farm for gas at about $60 so now I am at $320. Supposedly NAPA has one if I can find the part number for cars is $300. I can get a completely rebuilt one with a year's warranty for $600. NOW put that in your pipe and smoke that!!!! If I repaired mine and it didn't work, I'd be out of a fair amount of money. I don't like being called names for just asking for some information!!!! If you don't like what I am going to do them shut the dang computer off and go do something else!!!!!

Seems like the last few weeks all everyone can do on this site is complain because someone doesn't do what they suggest!!!!! There is no need for that!!!!!! If you can't give some advice and if the person doesn't do what you said, then IGNORE IT!!!!!!! Let them screw up!!!!!

This just well might be my last post on this site if this is the type of help I get. I asked for some help on the NAPA number and if the steering wheel shaft could be pushed to the rear and this is what I got!!!!!

Well here's one vote for hoping you stay... you don't need to explain yourself to anyone either, especially when you've done nothing wrong.

 

[used red MN]

And how would u know he figured it out.

He “figured it out” by not coming back!!
He was new to YT and there was no need to lay it on him like that. He was blaming it all on his ignition and we had not even gotten to fuel delivery. But you had to go and say …”I think u better get a mechanic on this problem as it is appearing it’s out of your league…” essentially meaning “better have someone that knows what they are doing come look at it because your an idiot”

Once u get old u stop being nice and just tell the truth.

If you got to do that, say that to your dog or cow or tractor. Don’t type it out on here. You’ll air it out and feel better and it won’t set anyone cross-wise here. This same thing goes for wore out here.
I’m not adding another reply to this line of discussion so no more is taken away from the subject of the thread. Besides you always have to have the last word anyway.
In regards to the topics these forums are supporting the “my way or the highway”approach just does not correlate with the purpose of these discussion forums. You type in your suggestions and step back and let others say their piece. If you don’t agree or feel your suggestion is better you come back explaining why it could be better. Then you wait for the member who brought the topic up to reply on their own terms. Am I a “model” participant? NO! But, I try to be civilized to those that come her with problems, especially if they are new here.

 

[300guy]

I have talked to people at Eaton, several people who repair these units, hydraulic people etc.!! I WOULD not buy a $1900 unit unless it was absolutely the last resort. When I worked at the IH dealer years ago, we simply replaced a unit like this because it wasn't cheap at that time but not the $1900 price tags now. Plus it got the customer's tractor back in the field much faster. I am leaning towards getting the $600 unit and spend only the one day to install it. That way I have a better steering unit with more power and all new parts inside that will not give me more problems down the road. So I'm putting an end to this post unless someone else can give me help on the steering shaft removal or NAPA info. Plus I am not stupid like someone tried to say I was!!! I have spent 65 years in the repair business working on all kinds of equipment. Thanks to several of you for your kind words and I hope the one with the mean works goes flies a kit and picks on someone else because I did not appreciate it when I was simply asking for information and had not made a decision yet!!!!!