"Proof" that I'm a newbie

baughmama

1952 8N Caretaker & Tinkerer 🚜
Location
Mississippi
Ok friends and neighbors, moving on to gauges on the'52. Proofmeter doesn't work at all, doesn't bounce or anything, glass is not broken, cable appears to be connected properly. Is this something I might be able to disassemble and clean/inspect or just replace with new?

Next, oil pressure gauge glass is smashed against the needle so I don't know if it works at all. Ammeter works properly. Should I just get the gauge kit (proof meter, ammeter, and oil pressure) on this site or should I attempt to fix the proofmeter and just replace oil pressure?
 
Get the kit! You won't regret it like so often happens when you TRY to fix something!
I watched a video of someone disassembling one and the failure was a worn out drive gear, irreparable. So I would imagine I would find something similar. Just going to get the kit I think.
 
Ok friends and neighbors, moving on to gauges on the'52. Proofmeter doesn't work at all, doesn't bounce or anything, glass is not broken, cable appears to be connected properly. Is this something I might be able to disassemble and clean/inspect or just replace with new?

Next, oil pressure gauge glass is smashed against the needle so I don't know if it works at all. Ammeter works properly. Should I just get the gauge kit (proof meter, ammeter, and oil pressure) on this site or should I attempt to fix the proofmeter and just replace oil pressure?
 
As far as the oil press goes, if it's not leaking oil, I'd pick the broken glass pieces out and see if it works.
If it does work , then steal a lens from any old gauge or make one out of plexi and seal the edge.
My proof meter is broken as they often are but I don't really have a need to use that meter anyway; at least not that I know of.
I never replace anything until attempts to fix have failed.
If the glass has pushed the needle in against the face, put a little shim behind the needle (like a piece of popsicle stick) at the base to over-lift the needle outward,
bend the tip end of the needle toward the face then remove that shim.
 

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Eventually, pretty much everything will be 3D-printable. The catch is - where are u going to get the code needed? All that stuff has to be programmed.
Inexpensive 3D scanners. The Navy as been ramping this up for their obsolete equipment with obsolete parts. I will be installing the first of them in a couple weeks at the land based test site.

Works great with an Inexpensive scanner (y)
 
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