Rebuilding the New Holland 271 Hayliner

Regarding Flying Belgian's question about the swath beater. The Ford 503's had that on there because they didn't have the stripper bars most rolabar rakes do. It knocks they hay down and back in front of the teeth, just like the stripper bars on most rakes would strip it off and let if fall back down in front of the teeth. They work pretty dandy, though you sometimes have to tweakify its position to work perfectly. It's anther moving part to maintain, but I believe they did it to keep the centre of gravity closer to the tractor so you don't need quite as heavy a tractor to use with one of those mounted rakes.

To Zuhnc: You're correct that mounting the teeth facing forward will indeed pick up the hay more. But that's actually a good thing: One of the irksome things with the rolabar-style rakes is how much they 'rope' windrows - winding the hay into a tight braid that doesn't dry as easily nor allow as much airflow through it. You can mitigate this 'roping' effect by having the teeth lift and break up the crop as much as possible while forming the windrow. The teeth pointed forward help with that, and there's also typically an adjustment to make the pitch angle of the teeth further forward (bottom of the teeth a little closer to the tractor so it lifts the hay more). Pull-type rakes have some sort of adjustment mechanism for the pitch angle, but on mounted rakes like yours its usually just be a case of lengthening the top link. Once you get them properly adjusted and the teeth pitched forward a little to lift the crop, rolabar rakes can do an ok job of fluffing the windrow. Not as good as rotary rakes, but certainly not terrible.

If you don't have time to flip all the teeth around you'll probably get along just fine for a while. Several of those older rolabar style rakes could be changed so the basket spins backwards to tedd the hay. Some Allis's and early New Ideas had a gearbox lever that would reverse the rotation. Others (later New Ideas, and possibly your Ford?) could be reversed by re-routing the drive belt - giving the belt an extra twist at some point in its routing. I have a couple of the old reversible Allis's down at my father's farm that I use for tedding. Because I have a rotary rake and only use the Allis with the basket running in reverse for tedding, I actually flipped all the teeth so they're facing backwards just like yours. Last year I had a couple acres I needed to rake near the end of the season. The rotary rake was already put away and the Allis was still hooked up, so I just flipped the gearbox to rake mode and raked with the Allis. The teeth facing the wrong way maybe left a little more hay on the ground and roped the hay a little worse than usual, but nothing that caused me any great concern.
I've been using a 503 for a long time and it took most of that time to get used to it. I keep the stripper as high as it will go but one real problem is going into even a slight breeze the hay will blow up over and wrap around the stripper. If I don't catch it in time it will push the belt off the lower pulley. If I'm raking a second time or combining swaths I will run in the opposite direction and it undoes most of the ropingl
 
More images from the 271 rebuild -

Rust throughout -
PXL_20241026_173044759resized.jpg

And more -
PXL_20241026_173124295resized.jpg

Some more -
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Straightening the tongue -
PXL_20241025_202109392resized.jpg PXL_20241028_194348559resized.jpg PXL_20241028_225953606resized.jpgPXL_20241028_230007621resized.jpg

All for now. Thanks for viewing.
 
A few years back, on a now defunct board, someone mentioned that it was possible to build a complete mower deck out of E6011 electrodes. I know from personal experience it is also possible to build a New Holland bale chamber mostly out of ER70 wire. I did add a few bits an pieces of scrap metal here and there.
 
More images from the 271 rebuild -

Rust throughout -
View attachment 102964

And more -
View attachment 102965

Some more -
View attachment 102971

Straightening the tongue -
View attachment 102968 View attachment 102967 View attachment 102969View attachment 102970

All for now. Thanks for viewing.
A guy, doing what you're doing on this particular part would greatly benefit from a tutorial on heat shrinking. It's like magic.

By the looks of it, you heat worked it, instead of heat shrinking it. NOT A BAD THING, but results are generally better when you use heat shrinking. I have a ton of pics from past jobs where heat shrinking was involved. Most folks don't seem interested, or seem to fail to understand the process. It's really fairly easy........just takes an understanding of what made the metal bend in the first place.

I'm not criticizing.
 
@farmersamm - Thanks for the comments. I use heat shrinking on bent/damaged flat panels; didn't consider it to straighten this; I would have needed four hands! For the tongue I had to heat about a foot-long section of both members to even get it to try to bend back; tough metal. Took two or three hours to get it back straight.

Even then, the brace is bowed near the center, as one can see; the main part is "close enough" for my use. That area is directly under the front of the chassis where the tongue slides left and right. I suspect that, somewhere in its lifetime, the baler got hung up on something, and brute force was used (read large tractor!) to get it loose, thus bowing the tongue. Had about a 5" bend in it.
 
@farmersamm - Thanks for the comments. I use heat shrinking on bent/damaged flat panels; didn't consider it to straighten this; I would have needed four hands! For the tongue I had to heat about a foot-long section of both members to even get it to try to bend back; tough metal. Took two or three hours to get it back straight.

Even then, the brace is bowed near the center, as one can see; the main part is "close enough" for my use. That area is directly under the front of the chassis where the tongue slides left and right. I suspect that, somewhere in its lifetime, the baler got hung up on something, and brute force was used (read large tractor!) to get it loose, thus bowing the tongue. Had about a 5" bend in it.
If you got a part time job for 1/4 the hours you will spend on that pile of rust you could buy a field ready baler that would bale.
 
@saskboy1950 - I agree, but not likely. No hydraulics or live PTO on my 8N. I have looked at alternatives. Not going to buy a bigger tractor for my little plot (40 acres) of land, mostly pasture. I am retired (6 years), and this keeps me busy and out of the SO's way. If I were to sit in front of the TV all day, I wouldn't be around today. Doing stuff like this is my hobby. Challenge the mind and body.
 
@saskboy1950 - I agree, but not likely. No hydraulics or live PTO on my 8N. I have looked at alternatives. Not going to buy a bigger tractor for my little plot (40 acres) of land, mostly pasture. I am retired (6 years), and this keeps me busy and out of the SO's way. If I were to sit in front of the TV all day, I wouldn't be around today. Doing stuff like this is my hobby. Challenge the mind and body.
Yeah...

To put in all the hours at a part time job, you'll end up spending all your money on driving back and forth, 30 dollar lunches, coffee...and after a couple of years, you still wouldn't be able to afford a good baler.

Just keep building and drinking coffee from the kitchen and enjoying the fresh air.

Ya got that 40 acres of land to be there...not in an office somewhere thinking about it.
 
@will-max dairy - Yep, when we retired we decided to move somewhere where the office windows opened onto large tracts of nature; not roads, cars, or buildings. Love it here, even though we don't do any farming. I can go about 200 feet to the pond for some fishing!
 
More rebuild (resurrection ?) images -

Fabrication of missing plunger shield, spacers, and new bearing (all nine) installation
PXL_20241214_180007928resized.jpg PXL_20241214_180013743resized.jpg PXL_20241214_180030493resized.jpg

Fabrication of replacement feeder chain guide
PXL_20241215_204909729resized.jpg

Replaced both pins in clutch mechanism; this is before, don't have an after. Lots of wear on the pins, very little wear on the parts
PXL_20241215_205220432resized.jpg

Sharpened the knives on the mill. took off about 1/8" due to lots of deep nicks and gouges. The really bad area is not in a critical area
PXL_20241217_011922896resized.jpg

The square tubing I used in fabrication and repair various parts, rather than trying to bend 1/8" sheet steel. Tried plasma cutting to start with, but too much warping. Used the Diablo steel-cutting blade in the skilsaw; straight cuts, no warping, no cleanup for weld preparation
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All for now; more next week or two!
 
More rebuild (resurrection ?) images -

Fabrication of missing plunger shield, spacers, and new bearing (all nine) installation
View attachment 105816 View attachment 105817 View attachment 105818

Fabrication of replacement feeder chain guide
View attachment 105820

Replaced both pins in clutch mechanism; this is before, don't have an after. Lots of wear on the pins, very little wear on the parts
View attachment 105821

Sharpened the knives on the mill. took off about 1/8" due to lots of deep nicks and gouges. The really bad area is not in a critical area
View attachment 105822

The square tubing I used in fabrication and repair various parts, rather than trying to bend 1/8" sheet steel. Tried plasma cutting to start with, but too much warping. Used the Diablo steel-cutting blade in the skilsaw; straight cuts, no warping, no cleanup for weld preparation
View attachment 105823

All for now; more next week or two!
Very good.
 

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