Removing a Spindle from a John Deere L Front Axle

Try looking for early M parts. It used the same parts and most vendors carry them. Probably still available from Deere as well. Look here at YT and Sharp's. Don't know if the L is listed on Deere's website so you can look up part numbers but the M is. I can look up the numbers in my parts files if needed.
I will try looking for the M parts this morning. I have the L part numbers from the L JD book.
Thank you.
 
Try looking for early M parts. It used the same parts and most vendors carry them. Probably still available from Deere as well. Look here at YT and Sharp's. Don't know if the L is listed on Deere's website so you can look up part numbers but the M is. I can look up the numbers in my parts files if needed.
If you have time to look up part numbers, I would greatly appreciate it. I cannot seem to match any L part numbers to M part numbers.
 
If you can, clean the bearing, and attempt to find a part number. A good bearing house should be able to find an interchange.

If you can't find any part numbers........................... Use a caliper to find bore diameter, bore depth, race OD, and race depth. Again......a good bearing house,, armed with this info, can usually find an interchange. If you don't have a good caliper, simply take the parts to the vendor.

Sometimes I'll look online for a bearing. A lot of my bearings are numbered by the manufacturer............but these numbers don't relate to generally available off the shelf aftermarket bearings, which are as good as OEM.

If you can find something........maybe from Messicks, etc. Try looking at their picture of the bearing, and see if it's marked. Then check those numbers from other suppliers. You'll often be pleasantly surprised. Remember........anything as old as our tractors generally utilize aftermarket bearings because the old part numbers are obsolete. A bearing is a bearing is a bearing.

If this is successful.......it's merely a matter of deciding on the quality of the bearing you choose. NTN, SKF, TIMKEN, or a cheaper no name brand. Just depends on how much you care to spend.

One of the sets of bearings on my baler crossed to a standard RA112RR bearing. This number is a standard industry number. I sourced 2 Timken/Fafnir bearings at about half the price of the ones from New Holland........and you can bet the New Holland bearings might have been a cheaper bearing in terms of quality. I forget the brand..........but NH now sells an inferior bearing as OEM.
 
The tir rod fork did not work. The opening on the fork was smaller than the spindle diameter. What I did was to heat the collar only and then used a bolt nearly the diameter of the spindle to force the spindle out of the steering collar. It worked pretty well. Thank you for the suggestions.

Now my issue is that I cannot find anyone who has the parts to rebuild the spindle. Do you have any suggestions where I can find the sleeves, cup bearings etc? My year is 1939 and serial number is 629224
I found bushings, once I had ID, OD and length, surfing the net. If your shafts are still good, get your mic or digital caliper out and start looking on line. The thrust bearing may be pretty standard also. I don't remember where I got them but McMaster Carr is my go to if I can't find some on eBay. If you get frustrated, post the measurements and maybe someone can help track them down. steve
 
I found bushings, once I had ID, OD and length, surfing the net. If your shafts are still good, get your mic or digital caliper out and start looking on line. The thrust bearing may be pretty standard also. I don't remember where I got them but McMaster Carr is my go to if I can't find some on eBay. If you get frustrated, post the measurements and maybe someone can help track them down. steve
Wheee does the thrust bearing go? I cannot find any remnants of a bearing at all. I just see bushings top and bottom. Dan
 
If you can, clean the bearing, and attempt to find a part number. A good bearing house should be able to find an interchange.

If you can't find any part numbers........................... Use a caliper to find bore diameter, bore depth, race OD, and race depth. Again......a good bearing house,, armed with this info, can usually find an interchange. If you don't have a good caliper, simply take the parts to the vendor.

Sometimes I'll look online for a bearing. A lot of my bearings are numbered by the manufacturer............but these numbers don't relate to generally available off the shelf aftermarket bearings, which are as good as OEM.

If you can find something........maybe from Messicks, etc. Try looking at their picture of the bearing, and see if it's marked. Then check those numbers from other suppliers. You'll often be pleasantly surprised. Remember........anything as old as our tractors generally utilize aftermarket bearings because the old part numbers are obsolete. A bearing is a bearing is a bearing.

If this is successful.......it's merely a matter of deciding on the quality of the bearing you choose. NTN, SKF, TIMKEN, or a cheaper no name brand. Just depends on how much you care to spend.

One of the sets of bearings on my baler crossed to a standard RA112RR bearing. This number is a standard industry number. I sourced 2 Timken/Fafnir bearings at about half the price of the ones from New Holland........and you can bet the New Holland bearings might have been a cheaper bearing in terms of quality. I forget the brand..........but NH now sells an inferior bearing as OEM.
I cannot find a remnant of any bearing. I only see worn bushings top and bottom. Where would the bearings be located? Dan
 
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I cannot find a remnant of any bearing. I only see worn bushings too and no bottom. Where would the bearings be located? Dan
It's been a while since I worked on the front axle of an LA,so I might get things wrong. I THINK,they used a bushing at the bottom,with a big shoulder.The shoulder hung down from the axle housing,and the spindle rode on that.I redid the front of my bosses LA,and I don't remember it having a thrust ball or roller bearing in the bottom of the spindle tube like heavier tractors.That was about 1980.
 
Wheee does the thrust bearing go? I cannot find any remnants of a bearing at all. I just see bushings top and bottom. Dan
What is that just below the grease zirk? There's usually a thrust bearing there to take the weight of the tractor. It might just be a flanged bushing on the bottom of the spindle housing. steve
 
Here's your parts breakdown................


Here's the corresponding part numbers............


#37 on the parts list seems to be what you're looking for. AL657T. Whether you can find it is another matter.

I'd anticipate wear inside the spindle housing........where the bushing meets the inside bore. This might necessitate removing the housing(not something for the faint of heart), either machining the bushing bore slightly larger......then making bushing to fit. Or sleeving the bore(not something that sounds viable, given the thin wall housing) for an OEM size bushing.

Or...............if either you, or a friend, owns a lathe.................. Make a new bushing that's close to the bore ID. You can generally get pretty close if you don't mind a bit of slop. Sometimes Loctite 660 is sufficient to fill up to around a 10-20thou gap. I've used this retaining compound on a number of repairs, and found it to be excellent. Retaining compounds are not thread lockers.........they're a whole different animal with excellent mechanical properties.

Dunno what the material would be. Chances are it's bronze?? Someone might know.

Personally, I'd favor making a bushing that's "close enough". You probably have spindle shaft wear, wear on the ends of the housing, and wear inside the housing bore. This can get very spendy if you try to bring it back to new condition. I'm capable of doing it, but it's very time consuming. This type of stuff generally kills my time, and makes for other problems.................like not getting in the field on time. But for this little tractor, which I assume you don't need to use in a hurry.....................you have a choice as to which way to go.
 
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I'm not offering to do it.............just sayin' that stuff like this has cost me valuable time better spent elsewhere. :rolleyes: You gotta pick your battles:D
 
Check with The Ridenours at www.antiquejohndeere.com They specialize in the L and LA's.
I am waiting for the Ridenours to respond. At this point, no one seems to have the bushings for the L steering spindles. I have one side of mine apart and the top bushing is definitely worn and wallowed out which caused a lot of "slop". The bottom bushing is not out yet but appears to be badly worn also.
At this point, I cannot find a size close enough even at McMaster-Carr. Will keep looking.
 
I am waiting for the Ridenours to respond. At this point, no one seems to have the bushings for the L steering spindles. I have one side of mine apart and the top bushing is definitely worn and wallowed out which caused a lot of "slop". The bottom bushing is not out yet but appears to be badly worn also.
At this point, I cannot find a size close enough even at McMaster-Carr. Will keep looking.
It can be easier to purchase Bushings with one size correct, and have them turned to size at a machine shop. It is a very simple task. Search for Bearing. Jim an example, not correct
 
I ended up making my own for the front of my 101 Jr. Spent a few days searching the net for something that could be worked over, like Jim suggests, and made to fit. Flanged bushings are a bit harder to recreate, but the material to start with should be available. Find someone with a lathe and some spare time. steve
 
Check with The Ridenours at www.antiquejohndeere.com They specialize in the L and LA's.
I checked with The Ridenours and found out that they have the bushings made for the L tractors. Currently they do not have any in stock and are waiting for their machinist to finish a new batch. I am to call back in a few weeks and see if the new ones have arrived yet.

I went by my local John Deere branch today. The L has no parts available. They do have M parts that are available to order but the M parts are different than the L parts. The M uses a needle bearing on the spindles whereas the L uses a bushing.
Dan
 
It's been a while since I worked on the front axle of an LA,so I might get things wrong. I THINK,they used a bushing at the bottom,with a big shoulder.The shoulder hung down from the axle housing,and the spindle rode on that.I redid the front of my bosses LA,and I don't remember it having a thrust ball or roller bearing in the bottom of the spindle tube like heavier tractors.That was about 1980.
The L has a bushing at the top with a big shoulder and the bushing at the bottom does not have a shoulder. It is 1” in length. I have not taken mine out yet but did measure it. I have attached a photo of the spindle and the top bushing.
Dan
 

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I have been able to talk both spindles apart. One side had three spacer washers and the other side had none. Is there a diagram showing the order of placement for the dust/felt seal, sealing washer, spacer washers?
Thanks, Dan
 
I have been able to talk both spindles apart. One side had three spacer washers and the other side had none. Is there a diagram showing the order of placement for the dust/felt seal, sealing washer, spacer washers?
Thanks, Dan
www.jdparts.com for a free online parts book. There will be a breakdown of parts there.
 
www.jdparts.com for a free online parts book. There will be a breakdown of parts there.
I have the parts breakdown but the breakdown and list of parts does not show good drawings of the parts and does not show the order of where they go on the spindle. My tractor had been partially taken apart by the former owner and parts were removed that I do not have. I was hoping there was a diagram of what pieces are used in what order.
Also, the two sides of my axle are different: One has a cup like piece on the bottom of the axle shaft just below the bottom bushing. The other side does not have this part. The bottom of the spindle fits nicely into this cup-like part. I need to know what that part is called. Photos are attached. The cup-like part is dirty/greasy but you can still see the detail that is missing from the other side.

Thanks for the help. I apologize that this is tedious.
Dan
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