Removing hydraulic cylinder from loader

[Mule Meat]

From the photos. It appears as if the cylinder pins have rarely saw a grease gun.

Most likely the pins have worn a shoulder into them and now the shoulder is hitting the sleeve on the arm.

Get a bigger hammer or cut them out.

 

[jon f mn]

An air hammer is your best friend for jobs like that. The best ones for that are the cheap discount store ones too.

 

[marloweg]

We have an IH 2250 loader with a leaking hydraulic cylinder on the bucket. Want to remove cylinder and repack it.
Have sprayed it with lube and pounded with a sledge and it has not budged. Don't think it has ever been removed since new.
Before I heat it up wanted to see if there are any techniques this group has for removing pins from loader cylinders.
Saw a Utube clip where they welded on a bracket to mount a hydraulic jack to force pin out. not there yet (I hope)View attachment 89043View attachment 89044

heat the thing red hot tap it out job done done more then one work smarter not harder

 

[bc]

I can get the Amishmen from next door, will that work?

If it is a square one.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Drill the pin for a size thread tap it screw in a threaded rod then pull it with a sleeve bigger than the pin over the end and a plate to pull on under the nut.
Did this to our grain cart auger hinge pin to get it out had to come out one way with the side of the cart behind the auger. Pulling this way no welding that usually doesn't hold under the stress of pulling and the pin can be changed if it is not big enough to hold upo after the hole is drilled or a bolt can be screwed in to fill the void. once hit with hammers it just got swaged into the hole tighter than you may be able to pull and pull from the end struck on. If you decid to put heat to it extend the cylinder out so the heat doesn't get to the seals in the barrel if you don't get it out. May leak now but would leak a lot more if you cook the seal.

 

[4wdtom]

Drill the pin for a size thread tap it screw in a threaded rod then pull it with a sleeve bigger than the pin over the end and a plate to pull on under the nut.
Did this to our grain cart auger hinge pin to get it out had to come out one way with the side of the cart behind the auger. Pulling this way no welding that usually doesn't hold under the stress of pulling and the pin can be changed if it is not big enough to hold upo after the hole is drilled or a bolt can be screwed in to fill the void. once hit with hammers it just got swaged into the hole tighter than you may be able to pull and pull from the end struck on. If you decid to put heat to it extend the cylinder out so the heat doesn't get to the seals in the barrel if you don't get it out. May leak now but would leak a lot more if you cook the seal.

Best suggestion yet! I have done this myself. Once on case hardened pins by grinding through the case before drilling and tapping. I have never seen any penetrating oil work on rusted solid parts, only after they are broken loose and there is a crack/space for the oil to wick into.

 

[DanielW]

heat the thing red hot tap it out job done done more then one work smarter not harder

Listen to this guy. Yes, all the welding, threading, and other wacky methods will work and are good ideas. But no point trying any of that until you've tried with simple heat. There's about a 90% chance heating the rings red hot and tapping it out will work. If it doesn't, then you can move to the more complex methods.

 

[bc]

I just want to double check here. Is everyone talking about heating the sleeve around the pin or heating the pin on one or both ends? I'm thinking if you are heating the pin then you need to quench it real quick to cool down and then it shrinks a little to break the bond so it can be tapped out.

Either way I would try melting some candle wax around each side of the heated pin or sleeve just like is done with stuck bolts when penetrating oil doesn't work.

Sorry. Been following this thread and now I'm a little corn fused about the complete process using heat.

 

[DanielW]

When it comes to stuck pins and seized bolts, there are two methods/schools of thought. The one that would seem to make the most logical sense is to heat the outer material so it expands and makes more clearance for the bolt or pin. I still ascribe to this method for about 80% of cases. And it's what I'd try first if I were the OP. But there is a legitimate case to be made for heating the bolt/pin: It expands, breaks the rusty bond between the surfaces, then when it cools it's looser and can be turned/pushed out. It definitely works, and sometimes better than heating the outside surface. But you have to make sure you let it fully cool. And as you noted, cooling it fast by quenching usually works best. I find this is the method that works best when steel or stainless-steel is seized inside magnesium or aluminum castings (which is opposite to what you'd think would work best, as Al and Mg have higher thermal expansion coefficients). I don't like this method as much if fast cooling is required as you're quenching your material and likely making it more brittle with a very martensitic grain structure.

Bottom line: Both methods can and do work, depending on the situation. One thing to keep in mind: If you go the conventional method and heat the outer surface/ring, you need a good source of heat. You need it to get nice and toasty and expand the outer surface before the pin/bolt does. If you try and heat with a small flame, you may eventually end up getting it just as hot, but it will take much longer. By the time it's red hot, the heat will have conducted to the pin/bolt and it will have expanded at a similar rate, so you're not really gaining anything. Lots of heat applied fast is the key.

 

[bc]

When it comes to stuck pins and seized bolts, there are two methods/schools of thought. The one that would seem to make the most logical sense is to heat the outer material so it expands and makes more clearance for the bolt or pin. I still ascribe to this method for about 80% of cases. And it's what I'd try first if I were the OP. But there is a legitimate case to be made for heating the bolt/pin: It expands, breaks the rusty bond between the surfaces, then when it cools it's looser and can be turned/pushed out. It definitely works, and sometimes better than heating the outside surface. But you have to make sure you let it fully cool. And as you noted, cooling it fast by quenching usually works best. I find this is the method that works best when steel or stainless-steel is seized inside magnesium or aluminum castings (which is opposite to what you'd think would work best, as Al and Mg have higher thermal expansion coefficients). I don't like this method as much if fast cooling is required as you're quenching your material and likely making it more brittle with a very martensitic grain structure.

Bottom line: Both methods can and do work, depending on the situation. One thing to keep in mind: If you go the conventional method and heat the outer surface/ring, you need a good source of heat. You need it to get nice and toasty and expand the outer surface before the pin/bolt does. If you try and heat with a small flame, you may eventually end up getting it just as hot, but it will take much longer. By the time it's red hot, the heat will have conducted to the pin/bolt and it will have expanded at a similar rate, so you're not really gaining anything. Lots of heat applied fast is the key.

Thanks. That clarifies things for me. I learned to heat the outer but with big Iron that is hard to heat all of it and get very hot. Either way it doesn't take long for the heat to transfer. I just wasn't seeing much about what to do after heating, either quenching or waiting hours to cool.

I would assume the OP has it out by now.