RTU engine assemble

[montidale]

I am getting close to putting the jugs back on the engine block. While talking to Allen K he suggested maybe putting two gaskets on the bottom of the
cylinders so that when I tighten down the cylinders, the rings wont hit the ridge inside the cylinder. The gaskets from my gasket kit are cork. Im
afraid if I use two gaskets, there might be a risk of oil leaking. The other side of the coin is if I only put one gasket on, theres a chance of breaking
rings. Has anybody else had luck using two gaskets?

 

[molinegb]

Should be no ridge in cylinder. Original gaskets weren't cork.

 

[montidale]

I did not rebuild the engine. So overtime there is a ridge at where the piston stops at the top of the piston stroke. Theres no way to use a ridge reamer like a conventional engine where you can remove the head off the top of the cylinder. The cork gasket is fairly thick. I threw away the old gasket, so I dont have nothing to compare it to. Usually I save everything till I have the tractor put back together. The reason I pulled the cylinders was because it was leaking oil around the bottom of the jugs where the new gasket is going. I didnt want to bore and re-piston and ring the cylinders because it wasnt smoking. Im really not gonna run it that much so I didnt want to stick that much money into it.

 

[montidale]

(quoted from post at 21:31:05 12/12/23) I did not rebuild the engine. So overtime there is a ridge at where the piston stops at the top of the piston stroke. Theres no way to use a ridge reamer like a conventional engine where you can remove the head off the top of the cylinder. The cork gasket is fairly thick. I threw away the old gasket, so I dont have nothing to compare it to. Usually I save everything till I have the tractor put back together. The reason I pulled the cylinders was because it was leaking oil around the bottom of the jugs where the new gasket is going. I didnt want to bore and re-piston and ring the cylinders because it wasnt smoking. Im really not gonna run it that much so I didnt want to stick that much money into it.

 

[montidale]

I have been having trouble sending pics lately. Thought I d try sending a couple. Painting the small parts is a real pain.

 

[MMDEL]

Back in the 60 s the MM gaskets were cork. Overhauled an engine for a customer in a ZA.There never was a torque spec for those block bolts. and we tend to make things tight. I don't want my work falling apart in the field. Blocks were bored so there was no ridge When we got done there was a slight knock. Come to find out the gasket was squeezed so much that the pistons were hitting the top of the block. The new gaskets are now made of a hard material. I would suggest you get some different gaskets use some sealer and don't over do it when tightening them down
MMDEL.

 

[Dieselbear]

If you have a ridge left in the top of the cyl. bore they were done wrong. THERE SHOULD BE NO RIDGE !!! The bore should have went all the way to the top, no ridge left at all, if assembled the way you are talking about you are just asking for trouble. They have to be bored like a blind cyl.any shop that does marine cyls. know how. It's not the rings that will hit it's the pistons if they are oversized

 

[Dieselbear]

When you put it back togeather, don't tighten jugs untill you put the head on and tighten it up first, then tighten blocks down

 

[Alan K]

If I remember correctly, I used thicker cork on mine when I overhauled my ZA to make up for the two thinner ones. That was back in 1985. From what I have heard the two gaskets were standard practice if the cylinder hadn't been bored. I have a couple of parts ZAs that had two cork gaskets on them. I would do what MMDEL suggested. When you get it assembled, turn it over with the crank to check.

 

[Alan K]

If you just re-ring the engine without reboring it and use the standard gasket, you do risk ring breakage.

 

[Ill John]

Just to add to Dieselbears statement, that's to insure that the blocks are in alignment so the headgasket doesn't fail. I always install the head with no gasket and tighten a couple of bolts on each block before tightening the block base bolts. Then take the head off, install gaskets, torque the head to spec

 

[montidale]

Alan, I was able to find some fiber, type gaskets. I think I will use two per block. And follow MMDELs Suggestion. Thanks for the input.

 

[montidale]

John, My repair manual recommends setting the blocks on the crank case, without tighting the nuts down. then install the head and torque it down. After the head is torque down, then go ahead and tighten the block bolts to the crank case. Thanks for the reply

 

[montidale]

Dieselbear, I never had the cylinders bored. The reason I remove the blocks was because The gaskets were leaking between the block and the crank case. I tried tightening them down, but it didnt completely fix the leak. They werent leaking that bad, but I figured if I was going to paint it, I better do it right So I removed the block to replace the gaskets and clean them up for painting.

 

[rustred]

i thought women have jugs. never heard of that on a tractor. other than snowmobile talk. i presume you are talking about the blocks. and if the ring ridge is there it should be bored or removed. if its worn that much. a small ridge wont matter. dont know why u want 2 gaskets as that will lower compression.

 

[Alan K]

My mistake. I though you were re-ringing the engine. If all you did was remove the blocks to install the gaskets and didn't re-ring it you should be able to get by with the one gasket. The two gaskets on each was normally if you put in new rings without re-boring it.

 

[Tony in SD]

Jugs is a common term that refers to engine cylinders. I personally recall that term being used as far back as the 1960s. It may have been used earlier but I would have been too young to notice.

 

[montidale]

I guess Ive always heard the phrase jug for any removable cylinder. Technically Minneapolis Moline called it a cylinder block. Im not too concerned about the loss of power. I wont be using the tractor that much. If I need more power, I have different tractors. Also, I have the RE226C high compression head on the tractor. Im more concerned about wrecking the rings. I guess the only reason I remove the cylinders is to fix the oil leak. The tractor seem to be running good enough. I didnt want to spend the money on a new set of pistons and rings and boring the cylinder blocks. Im gonna have way too much money in this Tractor for what its worth as it is!

 

[molinegb]

Re226C is not high compression head. Is very common.

 

[MMDEL]

I think you said the old gaskets you took off were cork. If the new gaskets you just got measure the same thickness as the new cork gaskets you have on hand there should be no problem with one gasket, because they should not compress like the cork.
MMDEL