Speaking of older electric range ovens

[jhwis]

Didn't want to highjack the other oven thread. I've read you can't get new electric ovens in the 40 amp range as was the breaker amps for most older fuse style electric service panels. In other words, you don't want to get a new oven that is 50 amps if the receptacle is rated for 40 amps. Obviously, upgrading the receptacle and fuse panel would be ideal, but my question is can you find new electric ranges rated at 40 amps if you need to replace the oven using the same 40 amp receptacle/breaker?

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Says 40 Amps:

Amana basic electric oven/stove at Home Depot

I know what I would do if faced with such a dilemma.

 

[jhwis]

I know you what are gonna say.... It does say 40 amps. Thanks.

 

[John T]

Mornin jh

don’t use wire with less ampacity then the breaker allows !!!!!

compute the max continuous load,,, size the wire to have at least 125% of that ampscity,,, size the breeker to protect the wire.

If the device calls for 50 amp supply I would use 50 amp rated wire protected with a 50 amp breaker. I would not use 40 amp wire on a 50 amp breaker.

That’s how I was taught in nec seminars back in the days I practiced

No warranty consult nec and professional electricians and engineers. There are several engineers and electricians on here more current then myself , see if they agree with me ?????

John T. Retired BSEE

 

[Phill Tibbetts]

Is the rated amperage with all elements on or only part of them? Doubtful that you would have everything on at once.

 

[John T]

Is the rated amperage with all elements on or only part of them? Doubtful that you would have everything on at once.

X2. Good point. The conductors should be rated for at least 125% of the maximum continuous current whatever snd how many burners that may be ????? I would guess the mcc is with all burners on ??

John T

 

[Tony in SD]

Is the rated amperage with all elements on or only part of them? Doubtful that you would have everything on at once.

You haven’t seen Miss Candy cook. We have a 5 burner LP range so electrical is not an issue but the point is she and cooks as handy as she is do use all 5 occasionally and 4 very often.

 

[jhwis]

You haven’t seen Miss Candy cook. We have a 5 burner LP range so electrical is not an issue but the point is she and cooks as handy as she is do use all 5 occasionally and 4 very often.

...Dare I say handy Miss Candy.

 

[kencombs]

You haven’t seen Miss Candy cook. We have a 5 burner LP range so electrical is not an issue but the point is she and cooks as handy as she is do use all 5 occasionally and 4 very often.

Not that I'd advocate for shorting the breaker or wire, but even when all the elements are operating on my cooktop and oven (separate) are they all actually drawing power simultaneously. My elements don't vary by changing constant current, they just turn off and on. With the control set at 5, for instance, the element is switched on for some seconds, then switched off for the same period. The actual times vary by knob position. It would be an extremely rare occurrence for all 5 to be really on at once, Only if all were set to 10, which never happens. '
Same with the oven, once up to temp it cycles, allowing about a 20deg drop before cycling on.

But, my oven alone is a 50a appliance, the cooktop is on a 40a circuit. The kitchen was wired in the late 60s with a smaller oven and similar cooktop. Both served with a single 40a circuit. Breaker to box behind the oven, then a wire under the floor to the cabinet containing the cooktop.

The current cooktop is on the original circuit, the oven is on a new one.