Starting Up Hydraulic Pump Empty - JD 3010

[kinglouie]

Hi again guys. First off I thank you guys for all your help. This site has been amazing for about ten years but I've only just recently made my own posts, for a 3010 with hydraulic pump issues. You guys have helped me a great deal so far and today the pump is in.

I just have to get the axle fastened back on.

My question is can I just fire up the tractor with the intercooler, lines and pump empty. I mean it's all lubed and recently had oil in it, so it's not RIGHT empty. If I fire it up will the system just get all the oil through the system where it needs to go or is there a process to perform like bleeding out air?

Thanks again fellas,
Jay

 

[Janicholson]

Hi again guys. First off I thank you guys for all your help. This site has been amazing for about ten years but I've only just recently made my own posts, for a 3010 with hydraulic pump issues. You guys have helped me a great deal so far and today the pump is in.

I just have to get the axle fastened back on.

My question is can I just fire up the tractor with the intercooler, lines and pump empty. I mean it's all lubed and recently had oil in it, so it's not RIGHT empty. If I fire it up will the system just get all the oil through the system where it needs to go or is there a process to perform like bleeding out air?

Thanks again fellas,
Jay

If the reservoir is full, and the pump has had Hydraulic oil in it it should prime in a few seconds. Putting 5 psi of pressure in the reservoir will help immensely. Then working the hydraulic and steering until things settle to normal is best. Did you find any issues with the mounting and axle contact? Were it mine with the history !! I would jack the front high enough to assess the axle tilt hitting the bracket. Just me, but something is wrong. Jim

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Nothing special on those yours doesn’t have an upper tank to fill. One thing I was taught on everything from a 3010 4020 to a hydro sprayer was to crank and not let start a couple times if it’s a gasser pull the coil wire if it’s a diesel just crank at low idle till it starts then shut it off and do that again. A couple times. Once it gets the steering moving you can continue like suggested above you can let it start and work the air out of everything just by operating it. The front bracket breaking has me confused as well.

 

[kinglouie]

Thanks for the replies, guys. OK I'll carry on in the morning like you guys suggested.

I checked the side rails and they were as tight as can be. I'm thinking that the problem was the imbalanced pump, like suggested and pretty much agreed upon in my very first tread, two threads ago. Introducing vibe into that cast iron and cracking it. But, we'll see.

I'll keep you guys posted and thanks a million for the input.

 

[kinglouie]

Oh, I forgot to tell you guys. What adds evidence to the vibration theory is that I discovered that at some point someone had slid little wood shims in under the pump. I suspect he figured it had some shake in it.

 

[Cliff Nelson]

Hi again guys. First off I thank you guys for all your help. This site has been amazing for about ten years but I've only just recently made my own posts, for a 3010 with hydraulic pump issues. You guys have helped me a great deal so far and today the pump is in.

I just have to get the axle fastened back on.

My question is can I just fire up the tractor with the intercooler, lines and pump empty. I mean it's all lubed and recently had oil in it, so it's not RIGHT empty. If I fire it up will the system just get all the oil through the system where it needs to go or is there a process to perform like bleeding out air?

Thanks again fellas,
Jay

I always start the tractor with the pump drive disconnected and let it run for a minute or two to let the trans pump fill the pump and oil cooler .

 

[kinglouie]

I always start the tractor with the pump drive disconnected and let it run for a minute or two to let the trans pump fill the pump and oil cooler .

Hi. Thanks for the input. So are you saying take the coupler off between the motor and pump for the first bit? Then wind in those two bolts in the coupler again and proceed with the above process, working the steering and wait to see action and get confidence it's all gotten through where it needs to go?

Thanks for the suggestion. Seems sound and a good careful way to proceed for an amateur who's not in a big hurry like me.