Suggestions/feedback on what to buy.

[One-Off]

I'm looking for some advise on what I should buy, first a little bit of background on me, then some info on what I'm looking to accomplish, followed by what I've been focusing on and why. I'm leaning into the experience on here for advise and I'll take it as such, I would however prefer something more in depth than "my tractor is the best tractor out there and you should buy the same one!" if that's how you truly feel please elaborate on why yours would suit my needs.

OK, so I'm early 40's, bit of a hillbilly(jack of all trades type) there hasn't been any farming in my family for 2 generations and they're all long gone but some of the knowledge and most of the mentality has been passed down; spent 5-6 years as a full time mechanic with last couple years in a truck shop; bummed around a couple other trades and ended up getting my electrical license and worked in that trade for 10 years; rest of my life since 18 has been spent in the army. So basically I know my way around tools and there's not many I haven't used in the past 20 years, literally a jack of all trades. I have experience running skid steers, front end loaders, smaller kubotas, an old Massey, and I have an old Ford LGT-18H that I work too hard both summer and winter, it's size for mowing my lawn but kinda small for anything else and doesn't have many implements available or even have a real PTO.

What I'm looking to accomplish with the tractor I buy is to fix up an old family piece of property, it's only 1 acre but I feel like the work is a bit heavy for a SCUT or old garden tractor. It's an old farm field with a bit of a grade, no swampy or wet areas that hasn't been hayed in 20 years and I'm sure it's bet 40+ years since it was plowed; it hasn't been completely taken over by alders, blackberry bushes, juniper, or spruce yet, but they are growing, I was able to clear them off with a bush saw in 1-1.5hrs last weekend. I want to bush hog it, to plow it, disc it, spread some lime, and maybe do this for a couple years; grade the edge when the dirt road is because the snowplow has made a huge lip(8"-12") for the full length of the property; dig a foundation; and then ongoing mowing, not looking at doing a weekly thing but more interested in mowing 4-5 times per summer. I'll find other things to do with it around my principal residence as well, one of them will be snowplowing my driveway; I have some low land at my house that I would like to fix up, diverting water etc; and removing smaller stumps.

I don't want anything within the past 10-15 years because I don't want all the headaches that come with newer tractors(DPF, EGR, electronics, etc) or their price tags, and I'm capable of maintaining and older farm machine, and I genuinely feel like I have no need for a 4wd on either of my property as they are both relatively dry. Renting doesn't financially makes sense to me because I have an ongoing need and if I only really needed a larger machine for 5 years I can still sell it when I'm done and get something smaller.
I've been looking at the MF 35 and 135 because they're not oversized for my needs, they're simple, effective, will work with all the implements I'm going to need(I'll be renting what I can) but I get the impression that I'll have issues with fitting a backhoe as they're not really sorted for that, if I have to rent a TLB that's no issue but would be handy to have my tractor to mount a rented hoe on for when I need it. I thought about the Massey 1010 but I can see it having issue running a bush hog and would take longer than I'd like to plow that field, I also don't think it will handle whatever roots I encounter.

So based on that, am I out to lunch for considering the Massey 35/135 series? Is there something better that would suit my needs? Or if the 35/135 would be well suited what are some comparable models from other manufacturers?

 

[jwal10]

I have several 454/2400 IHC. 2400 is the industrial model of the 454. It has a straight axle in stead of the swept back on the 454, better for a loader. I have had a 850 JD with 4wd and a loader, great little tractor for a small acreage. I think the 135 has some steering problems, may be hard to get parts for power steering, need power steering for loader. Also not a lot of hydraulic pump, many Massey tractors did better with front pump for a loader, same with many Fords. We had several at the city and the loader function was very slow. I would get something in an industrial models with factory mounted loader. If you really want a Massey, get an industrial model, they made many of them somewhat like the 135. Click on some of the 30-40-50 HP industrial models, then Google that model image loader tractor. Make sure you have 3 pt and PTO....James

TractorData.com - Massey Ferguson industrial tractors sorted by model

www.tractordata.com

 

[THinAl.]

Maybe a Kubota L35 would work for you. It has a backhoe and loader. The backhoe can be removed and use the three point hitch and pto. I have one that I bought used about 16 years ago and it is a very handy tractor.

I don’t have any snow to plow in Alabama, so I can’t advise you on how it would move snow.

 

[Farmall m farmer]

I would get a John Deere 2010 3010 or 4020 (if you want to shell out the big bucks) they have decent hydraulic and would do ok with a loader I’m not to sure never had one but run similar models I have a John Deere 60 it has pretty good hydraulics but it’s a narrow front and that gets kind of hairy on steep hills maybe a international 06 Series a Farmall m would be ok with some modifications like live hydraulics stepped pistons but no live pto

 

[Tim in New York]

Your uses don't seem to focus on requiring a loader. Unless cost is not a concern, I think you are right on with the Massey 35/135 idea. One of them should do most of what you need to do, with appropriate 3 pt hitch equipment. Loaders and backhoes are going to run you much more cost, and you probably would want a machine that is much newer. Not sure exactly what your backhoe uses would be - but you won't do a lot of digging with a 3 pt hoe on a tractor that size. BIL bought a Ford 600 I think many years ago with the idea to dig his house foundation and use on the farm. He quickly gave up on that, traded the Ford for a 50 hp Kubota, and hired a digger for the foundation.

 

[Brown David]

A big vote here for the MF 35/135 tractors.

A dedicated backhoe tractor, MF Work Bull for example, would be a much better solution than a 3 pt hitch backhoe IMO.

Yeah, I like Massey Fergusons.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I always thought the Fords and Massey's of those vintage and size were a bit light in the front axle for loader work. As for the 3pt backhoe you will be severely short on hydraulics for something like that. Also with a light tractor like that you will probably have other problems with keeping joints tight or stressing things from the hoe both weight and hydraulics pulling on things like tree roots and stones and whatever other things get caught on the bucket in the dirt. Now For what you do want. Most of the utility models will work for you . I would stay away from a loader on 2wd if you plan to work around wetter swampier ground as you will always be having trouble with rutting and stuck more often than not with the front wheels going down in the wet ground. You will have trouble finding a MFWD tractor much before the 90's models and the regen,def none sense didn't come around on tractors till the later 90's 2000 years . Though they did come with more electrical items on them and more conveniences on them. The 54 through the 56 series would make decent tractor for you with the 85 series being available with MFWD, the Deere 20,30 and some of the 40 series even into the 55 series would work well. The Deere will have a wet clutch after the 40 series I believe. then the later 00and up series of the newer models with the different hood style I believe will also be an oil clutch after the 00 series not just sure when they went to that on them if they did. I'm sure some will come on and tell you better than me on the Deere model. IF you can find a 530 Case would work well or even the 730 . Oliver had a lot of models that had outside vendor components like engines and such .always turned me off from them. IF you know which models to look for you can find some that are better models with US made components in them. Allis I would stay new enough to be past the snap couple system not that it is bad but it is somewhat like the IH quick hitch just not a real common thing with implements being somewhat scarce and can be pricey from the wrong person. And if you war one of the got to have 3pt then the IH quick hitch is another obstacle to overcome. The 54 and up series like previously mentioned were already 3pt from the factory. The Allis D series was a good tractor if it had the 3pt and not sure just when they started putting them on the Allis models. 50 HP would do the work you are wanting it to do at this time based on your description. Though I never had a tractor to big nor a job to small.

 

[THinAl.]

The backhoe on a Kubota L35 is not a three point hitch mounted backhoe. The frame for the backhoe is mounted to the tractor. The backhoe attachment can be removed and a set of three point lift arms can be attached. I’ve dug graves, foundations, and numerous soil pits with this tractor.

The digging depth and reach is not that of a 310 John Deere, but it doesn’t weigh as much and can be hauled on a trailer behind a 3/4 ton truck.

 

[docmirror]

I'm a vintage Ford guy. I can see the MF 35, 135, 65, 165 depending on price you find. Personally, I have Ford 860, and 961, both have front buckets and power steering. They do just fine for my needs and are dead simple and cheap to maintain. Suggest either gas or LP. The LP engines stay a LOT cleaner inside. The 3pt on the 800 and 900 are strong and usually very robust. Fresh fluid, and good gas or LP will have them running a long time. Both mine have wide front. I know nothing about JD except the 2010 is a complete POS and avoid it like the plague. The blue Ford 3000 and 4000 are quite similar to the earlier 800 and 900 series, and would be just fine. If I had a complaint about the 961/4000 it would be the engine is a bit thirsty. They bumped the compression up to get 62HP and a bigger cam and carb. The 860 will run out of traction before HP with most implements.

I use the 961 to run the concrete roller on my runway, the 860 will barely move it. Otherwise, the 860 does all the other jobs just fine, and has the bucket with PS to move dirt and smooth. If you have a need for a backhoe, rent it and return it. Either one will box blade the berm you have in a few passes. I'm sure there's a Farmall like a Super M that would also work, but I don't know much about them. Ford parts are well supported here, and prices are reasonable.

https://denver.craigslist.org/grd/d/elizabeth-ford-tractor/7774041738.html

https://charlottesville.craigslist.org/grd/d/batesville-3000-ford-diesel-tractor/7781704343.html

https://northernwi.craigslist.org/grd/d/cornell-1955-ford-900-tractor/7782435084.html

 

[Fixingfarmer]

I would get a John Deere 2010 3010 or 4020 (if you want to shell out the big bucks) they have decent hydraulic and would do ok with a loader I’m not to sure never had one but run similar models I have a John Deere 60 it has pretty good hydraulics but it’s a narrow front and that gets kind of hairy on steep hills maybe a international 06 Series a Farmall m would be ok with some modifications like live hydraulics stepped pistons but no live pto

Early 3020 with synchro is my vote. Snow he said that upped my tractor weight requirement and options to one with diff lock. The 2000 series will do it but much more weight needs added both will need chains we pushed snow with a 2555 for a very long time till something came along better it works but it’s light especially without the filled tires.

 

[Dean]

I'm looking for some advise on what I should buy, first a little bit of background on me, then some info on what I'm looking to accomplish, followed by what I've been focusing on and why. I'm leaning into the experience on here for advise and I'll take it as such, I would however prefer something more in depth than "my tractor is the best tractor out there and you should buy the same one!" if that's how you truly feel please elaborate on why yours would suit my needs.

OK, so I'm early 40's, bit of a hillbilly(jack of all trades type) there hasn't been any farming in my family for 2 generations and they're all long gone but some of the knowledge and most of the mentality has been passed down; spent 5-6 years as a full time mechanic with last couple years in a truck shop; bummed around a couple other trades and ended up getting my electrical license and worked in that trade for 10 years; rest of my life since 18 has been spent in the army. So basically I know my way around tools and there's not many I haven't used in the past 20 years, literally a jack of all trades. I have experience running skid steers, front end loaders, smaller kubotas, an old Massey, and I have an old Ford LGT-18H that I work too hard both summer and winter, it's size for mowing my lawn but kinda small for anything else and doesn't have many implements available or even have a real PTO.

What I'm looking to accomplish with the tractor I buy is to fix up an old family piece of property, it's only 1 acre but I feel like the work is a bit heavy for a SCUT or old garden tractor. It's an old farm field with a bit of a grade, no swampy or wet areas that hasn't been hayed in 20 years and I'm sure it's bet 40+ years since it was plowed; it hasn't been completely taken over by alders, blackberry bushes, juniper, or spruce yet, but they are growing, I was able to clear them off with a bush saw in 1-1.5hrs last weekend. I want to bush hog it, to plow it, disc it, spread some lime, and maybe do this for a couple years; grade the edge when the dirt road is because the snowplow has made a huge lip(8"-12") for the full length of the property; dig a foundation; and then ongoing mowing, not looking at doing a weekly thing but more interested in mowing 4-5 times per summer. I'll find other things to do with it around my principal residence as well, one of them will be snowplowing my driveway; I have some low land at my house that I would like to fix up, diverting water etc; and removing smaller stumps.

I don't want anything within the past 10-15 years because I don't want all the headaches that come with newer tractors(DPF, EGR, electronics, etc) or their price tags, and I'm capable of maintaining and older farm machine, and I genuinely feel like I have no need for a 4wd on either of my property as they are both relatively dry. Renting doesn't financially makes sense to me because I have an ongoing need and if I only really needed a larger machine for 5 years I can still sell it when I'm done and get something smaller.
I've been looking at the MF 35 and 135 because they're not oversized for my needs, they're simple, effective, will work with all the implements I'm going to need(I'll be renting what I can) but I get the impression that I'll have issues with fitting a backhoe as they're not really sorted for that, if I have to rent a TLB that's no issue but would be handy to have my tractor to mount a rented hoe on for when I need it. I thought about the Massey 1010 but I can see it having issue running a bush hog and would take longer than I'd like to plow that field, I also don't think it will handle whatever roots I encounter.

So based on that, am I out to lunch for considering the Massey 35/135 series? Is there something better that would suit my needs? Or if the 35/135 would be well suited what are some comparable models from other manufacturers?

The MF 35 and, especially later 135s are good small tractors and either would suit your needs. I would avoid the 4 cylinder Continental gasoline engine but the 3 cylinder Perkins engines, either gasoline or diesel, are rugged and economical. Very late 135s were sold with 4X2 transmissions rather than the 3X2 transmissions used in the overwhelming majority of units but these are difficult to find. Two-stage clutch live PTO is common. Be certain to avoid a 35 with the 4 cylinder Standard Motors diesel engine as these are notoriously difficult to start when cold and parts are difficult to find. Additionally, most folks avoid models with the power-shifting Multipower system as many/most no longer function properly.

I'm partial to vintage Ford tractors for usage such as you describe. I especially like the Ford 860 and 861 models. The 861 will use noticeably more fuel than will the 860 when working hard but finding one with PS is much easier. Plenty of these tractors out there at modest prices and parts are readily available just about anywhere. Both the 860 and 861 have two-stage clutch live PTO systems. I avoid 861 models with the 4 cylinder diesel engines as these converted gasoline engines are well known to break crankshafts, balancer or otherwise.

For a bit more money you can get a post 64 Ford 4000 with 3 cylinder gasoline or diesel engine. These tractors are a bit heavier than the 86* models have about the same PTO HP and are available with twin stick 4X2 transmissions, an improvement from the 5 speed used in the 86* models. Differential lock and wet brakes are also included. Avoid models with the simple 4 speed transmissions as these models are geared quite high, even in low gear. Later model derivatives of the 4000 are available with a bit more HP and improved features but these will demand higher prices.

 

[560Dennis]

YT article has suggested link

Buying Your First Tractor: Choosing the Right One

forums.yesterdaystractors.com

 

[Brown David]

The MF 35 and, especially later 135s are good small tractors and either would suit your needs. I would avoid the 4 cylinder Continental gasoline engine but the 3 cylinder Perkins engines, either gasoline or diesel, are rugged and economical. Very late 135s were sold with 4X2 transmissions rather than the 3X2 transmissions used in the overwhelming majority of units but these are difficult to find. Two-stage clutch live PTO is common. Be certain to avoid a 35 with the 4 cylinder Standard Motors diesel engine as these are notoriously difficult to start when cold and parts are difficult to find. Additionally, most folks avoid models with the power-shifting Multipower system as many/most no longer function properly.

Right on the money about the MFs.

Only thing I disagree with is avoiding the Continental engines. I have one in my avatar MH 50 and one in my Work Bull 202.

No complaints with either.

 

[MikeinKy]

I would get a John Deere 2010 3010 or 4020 (if you want to shell out the big bucks) they have decent hydraulic and would do ok with a loader I’m not to sure never had one but run similar models I have a John Deere 60 it has pretty good hydraulics but it’s a narrow front and that gets kind of hairy on steep hills maybe a international 06 Series a Farmall m would be ok with some modifications like live hydraulics stepped pistons but no live pto

Don't ever buy a John Deere 2010, John Deeres worst nightmare

 

[One-Off]

YT article has suggested link

Buying Your First Tractor: Choosing the Right One

forums.yesterdaystractors.com

Thank you for directing me to a well written article of basic information that is barely related to the question I asked. Just for clarity purposes I already know my needs and requirements, I’m just trying to confirm that what I’m looking at will meet the minimum and what models from other manufacturers I should be looking at.

 

[One-Off]

Thanks for all the replies, and good info. I let this simmer for a few weeks just to collect some data.
I’m tracking this issues with low output hydraulics on the Masseys, I’m assuming this can be rectified by adding a pump. I’m not set on a Massey, they’re just what I know and there’s a lot available around here.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

I'm looking for some advise on what I should buy, first a little bit of background on me, then some info on what I'm looking to accomplish, followed by what I've been focusing on and why. I'm leaning into the experience on here for advise and I'll take it as such, I would however prefer something more in depth than "my tractor is the best tractor out there and you should buy the same one!" if that's how you truly feel please elaborate on why yours would suit my needs.

OK, so I'm early 40's, bit of a hillbilly(jack of all trades type) there hasn't been any farming in my family for 2 generations and they're all long gone but some of the knowledge and most of the mentality has been passed down; spent 5-6 years as a full time mechanic with last couple years in a truck shop; bummed around a couple other trades and ended up getting my electrical license and worked in that trade for 10 years; rest of my life since 18 has been spent in the army. So basically I know my way around tools and there's not many I haven't used in the past 20 years, literally a jack of all trades. I have experience running skid steers, front end loaders, smaller kubotas, an old Massey, and I have an old Ford LGT-18H that I work too hard both summer and winter, it's size for mowing my lawn but kinda small for anything else and doesn't have many implements available or even have a real PTO.

What I'm looking to accomplish with the tractor I buy is to fix up an old family piece of property, it's only 1 acre but I feel like the work is a bit heavy for a SCUT or old garden tractor. It's an old farm field with a bit of a grade, no swampy or wet areas that hasn't been hayed in 20 years and I'm sure it's bet 40+ years since it was plowed; it hasn't been completely taken over by alders, blackberry bushes, juniper, or spruce yet, but they are growing, I was able to clear them off with a bush saw in 1-1.5hrs last weekend. I want to bush hog it, to plow it, disc it, spread some lime, and maybe do this for a couple years; grade the edge when the dirt road is because the snowplow has made a huge lip(8"-12") for the full length of the property; dig a foundation; and then ongoing mowing, not looking at doing a weekly thing but more interested in mowing 4-5 times per summer. I'll find other things to do with it around my principal residence as well, one of them will be snowplowing my driveway; I have some low land at my house that I would like to fix up, diverting water etc; and removing smaller stumps.

I don't want anything within the past 10-15 years because I don't want all the headaches that come with newer tractors(DPF, EGR, electronics, etc) or their price tags, and I'm capable of maintaining and older farm machine, and I genuinely feel like I have no need for a 4wd on either of my property as they are both relatively dry. Renting doesn't financially makes sense to me because I have an ongoing need and if I only really needed a larger machine for 5 years I can still sell it when I'm done and get something smaller.
I've been looking at the MF 35 and 135 because they're not oversized for my needs, they're simple, effective, will work with all the implements I'm going to need(I'll be renting what I can) but I get the impression that I'll have issues with fitting a backhoe as they're not really sorted for that, if I have to rent a TLB that's no issue but would be handy to have my tractor to mount a rented hoe on for when I need it. I thought about the Massey 1010 but I can see it having issue running a bush hog and would take longer than I'd like to plow that field, I also don't think it will handle whatever roots I encounter.

So based on that, am I out to lunch for considering the Massey 35/135 series? Is there something better that would suit my needs? Or if the 35/135 would be well suited what are some comparable models from other manufacturers?

ONe off
Buying your first tractor is like buying you first starter home or pole barn
Buy what is in your budget. Buy what you can buy parts for.
You will learn what you want to buy the second time around.

 

[Leroy]

The MF 35 and, especially later 135s are good small tractors and either would suit your needs. I would avoid the 4 cylinder Continental gasoline engine but the 3 cylinder Perkins engines, either gasoline or diesel, are rugged and economical. Very late 135s were sold with 4X2 transmissions rather than the 3X2 transmissions used in the overwhelming majority of units but these are difficult to find. Two-stage clutch live PTO is common. Be certain to avoid a 35 with the 4 cylinder Standard Motors diesel engine as these are notoriously difficult to start when cold and parts are difficult to find. Additionally, most folks avoid models with the power-shifting Multipower system as many/most no longer function properly.

I'm partial to vintage Ford tractors for usage such as you describe. I especially like the Ford 860 and 861 models. The 861 will use noticeably more fuel than will the 860 when working hard but finding one with PS is much easier. Plenty of these tractors out there at modest prices and parts are readily available just about anywhere. Both the 860 and 861 have two-stage clutch live PTO systems. I avoid 861 models with the 4 cylinder diesel engines as these converted gasoline engines are well known to break crankshafts, balancer or otherwise.

For a bit more money you can get a post 64 Ford 4000 with 3 cylinder gasoline or diesel engine. These tractors are a bit heavier than the 86* models have about the same PTO HP and are available with twin stick 4X2 transmissions, an improvement from the 5 speed used in the 86* models. Differential lock and wet brakes are also included. Avoid models with the simple 4 speed transmissions as these models are geared quite high, even in low gear. Later model derivatives of the 4000 are available with a bit more HP and improved features but these will demand higher prices.

I would look for a later 3 cylinder 4000 but the 4100 version with a heavier front axle and 38" rear wheels. We had one with a heavy loader and no loader problems I drove JD and the 2010, 2020 and a 3020, not mine but they killed me for any John Deere tractor, Very uncomfortable seating as and I am only about 5foot 6 inches tall all the controls were in very uncomfortable positions. Always hitting something. Now the 2010 and 2020 in the HU version may be better with you setting higher. When we wanted a second tractor of the 4000 size went with a second 4000 also with the 38 inch rear wheels The 65 had a slightly better shifting pattern than the 68 model. then a 68 5000 but the 4000 (4100) models were better, lots better steering.Very seldon used the PTO but I did not like that independant PTO they had and all that age and up of most makes will have. With the earlier Fords 8xx' 9xx and the 4 cylinder 4000 they had the 2 stage clutch and if you needed to make a quick stop using the PTO lust lit the clutch and you stoped, with the indepenadnt PTO making that stop you had also to grab the PTO shift lever with your left hand while possibly needing your hand as well as the right, both hands on the steering wheel. Trying to bush hog around obsticals you needed both hands on the steering wheel as stoping the PTO at the same time. Open field work probably would not notice that problem. And as I cannot go the smell of deisel fuell or exaust we stayed away from them. Had borrowed neighbors small Ih with a backhow and after using it and then going to work they said I was green and wanted to call the recue squad for my, did not think I was that bad so I said no. For years after that I could not use the pumps at gas station that were diesel as well as gas, the spoilled diesel would make me sick. Even following a diesel truck would do that. Owned Fords 41 9N, 44 2N, NAA, the 2 4100. 30 Ferguson, 5 2 cylinder Deeres, H Farmall and Moline U. Drove other makes and models as well. The AC CA and WD were the most uncomfortable setting tractor I ever saw. Would not have minded owning a 35, 40, 50, 65 135, 165 MF but the 40, 50, 65 and 165 would have had to have the versions with the 38 inch rear wheels. Drove a Oliver 77, Not bad but no 3 point hitch. Have no Idea how good the hydrolics were. At 81 no need for a tractor anymore.