Threaded nut broke off in Aluminum Rim

[lenray]

Have this old GMC 2500 HD. 8 BOLT RIM. Aluminum rim that takes a special tool to remove the nuts. These nuts are steel and 2 inches long. I broke the bottom 1/2 inch off. It is recessed into the rim.It is the bottom rounded part of the nut.. Hope I explained what kind of nut that is broke. Any ideas??????

 

[Mule Meat]

Sounds like you are describing the second biggest joke ever when it comes to lug nuts. The first being a Wheel Lock of course.

Are you working on a Spline Drive nut?

Deep Spiral Extractor Set. May help you get the nut off.

If that doesn't work. Look for a tool called a Lug Ripper Tool Set. It comes with a cutter bit and different sized dies that holds the bit centered on the lig stud. The bit cuts both the nut and lug stud off.

Good luck.

 

[lenray]

Sounds like you are describing the second biggest joke ever when it comes to lug nuts. The first being a Wheel Lock of course.

Are you working on a Spline Drive nut?

Deep Spiral Extractor Set. May help you get the nut off.
View attachment 79511
If that doesn't work. Look for a tool called a Lug Ripper Tool Set. It comes with a cutter bit and different sized dies that holds the bit centered on the lig stud. The bit cuts both the nut and lug stud off.

View attachment 79512

Good luck.

Yes Mule Meat it is the Dorman wheel lug nut--the bottom half inch is still in place. Can you put a pic of it on here????

 

[Mule Meat]

Here ya go.
It is not a Dorman. But spline drive lug nuts are pretty much the same. Just different lengths and spline numbers.

Lug nut

Tool for spline drive nuts.

 

[lenray]

Here ya go.
It is not a Dorman. But spline drive lug nuts are pretty much the same. Just different lengths and spline numbers.

Lug nut

View attachment 79515
Tool for spline drive nuts.
View attachment 79517

The round beveled part of the nut--the part on the RIGHT is what is stuck on the stud. The longer part where the tool fits on has broken off.

 

[lenray]

Here ya go.
It is not a Dorman. But spline drive lug nuts are pretty much the same. Just different lengths and spline numbers.

Lug nut

View attachment 79515
Tool for spline drive nuts.
View attachment 79517

The round beveled part of the nut--the part on the RIGHT is what is stuck on the stud. The longer part where the tool fits on has broken off.

 

[Mule Meat]

The round beveled part of the nut--the part on the RIGHT is what is stuck on the stud. The longer part where the tool fits on has broken off.

Common for them to break. People put those spline drive nuts on heavy duty trucks not realizing that they can only handle about 90 - 100 Ft lb of torque. Majority of them gets torqued way beyond what is safe and they fail.

Your case. A Lug Ripper would most likely work best.

 

[caterpillar guy]

If you could stat a drill bit on the end of the bolt then drill out the bolt till the nut falls off. Probably about what mule is talking about. Other wise a carbide burr would cut it out for you if you had a smaller one could cut the nut out around the bolt/stud and save the stud.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Burrs work good on dye grindfers with plenty of air. Not so much pressure lots of volume.

 

[redtom]

I had a lug nut seize on the stud on my daughter's car and start the stud spinning in the hub. An internet search revealed that this is more common than one thinks. A YouTube video showed me how to just simply drill through the center of the stud with a half inch bit simply cutting off the stud. The down side was I had to replace the hub/bearing, but better than the rim. I was able to use a regular hss bit.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I had a lug nut seize on the stud on my daughter's car and start the stud spinning in the hub. An internet search revealed that this is more common than one thinks. A YouTube video showed me how to just simply drill through the center of the stud with a half inch bit simply cutting off the stud. The down side was I had to replace the hub/bearing, but better than the rim. I was able to use a regular hss bit.

As much as I like tools I drill'em out and move on with life. I would buy a special tool if it became a repetitive issue.

 

[DoubleO7]

Common for them to break. People put those spline drive nuts on heavy duty trucks not realizing that they can only handle about 90 - 100 Ft lb of torque. Majority of them gets torqued way beyond what is safe and they fail.

Looks like they should be restricted for use on rice burner type cars ONLY.

 

[Mule Meat]

If I had to guess the rims. I would say Fuel, Moto Metal or Vinson. All three have a thick center section that even a two inch long spline drive lug nut does not stick out at all. The spline drive tool barely has any clearance when installing or removing the lug nuts.

If he has any of the rims I mentioned above or similar ones.

You do not have room to use a die grinder. The shank would have to be around 3" long just to reach the nut. And You would be working blind.

Any good tire shop should have the tools to remove the nut without doing any damage to the rim other than maybe a little to coating inside of the hole. If possible. His best bet would be to take the truck to a shop and pay the guys a few dollars to remove it. Paying even $50 would be better than buying a $500 - $1000+ rim. They could install a new stud at the same time. I have both the Lug Ripper and a set of shallow and deep extractors.

Also as mentioned. You torque those lug nuts any more than 100 ft lb. You are asking for trouble. When using that type of aftermarket wheel. You MUST follow the recommended torque specs of the wheel manufacturer and NOT the trucks owners manual.

 

[lenray]

If I had to guess the rims. I would say Fuel, Moto Metal or Vinson. All three have a thick center section that even a two inch long spline drive lug nut does not stick out at all. The spline drive tool barely has any clearance when installing or removing the lug nuts.

If he has any of the rims I mentioned above or similar ones.

You do not have room to use a die grinder. The shank would have to be around 3" long just to reach the nut. And You would be working blind.

Any good tire shop should have the tools to remove the nut without doing any damage to the rim other than maybe a little to coating inside of the hole. If possible. His best bet would be to take the truck to a shop and pay the guys a few dollars to remove it. Paying even $50 would be better than buying a $500 - $1000+ rim. They could install a new stud at the same time. I have both the Lug Ripper and a set of shallow and deep extractors.

Also as mentioned. You torque those lug nuts any more than 100 ft lb. You are asking for trouble. When using that type of aftermarket wheel. You MUST follow the recommended torque specs of the wheel manufacturer and NOT the trucks owners manual.

Here is what I DID....Went to my local tire ship and they loaned me a Lenox hole saw that just fit over the stud and went down and cut ----98% off of the collar. Pulled rim off and using a thin screw driver pulled that little bit of what was left off of the stud...Thanks so much to Mule Meat and others who gave me their time---so much appreciated and my neighbor in Owasso............................

 

[Hobo,NC]

If I had to guess the rims. I would say Fuel, Moto Metal or Vinson. All three have a thick center section that even a two inch long spline drive lug nut does not stick out at all. The spline drive tool barely has any clearance when installing or removing the lug nuts.

If he has any of the rims I mentioned above or similar ones.

You do not have room to use a die grinder. The shank would have to be around 3" long just to reach the nut. And You would be working blind.

Any good tire shop should have the tools to remove the nut without doing any damage to the rim other than maybe a little to coating inside of the hole. If possible. His best bet would be to take the truck to a shop and pay the guys a few dollars to remove it. Paying even $50 would be better than buying a $500 - $1000+ rim. They could install a new stud at the same time. I have both the Lug Ripper and a set of shallow and deep extractors.

Also as mentioned. You torque those lug nuts any more than 100 ft lb. You are asking for trouble. When using that type of aftermarket wheel. You MUST follow the recommended torque specs of the wheel manufacturer and NOT the trucks owners manual.

I have only seen those nuts a few times I work on a truck now that has them I will past the info on to'em. I know without a doubt I torqued them to 140 the whole time thinking I hope that thin wall socket does not break. It looks like I will have to draw up a waiver when I work on it next time.