timing distributor and oil pressure. also updates on past issues.

[Kondoge]

happy Monday everyone, first post of the week. updates for past issues. I finally got a new alternator and made sure it had a 5/8 pulley and a proper belt on it, doesn't rub distributor anymore, I had the hood off last Friday to put a pad for the radiator on to stop the rattling, while I was working I adjusted the throttle rod because when I would have the throttle all the way open the rod would bend, so I bent it so it wouldn't bend. when I did the Idle slowed down, when the Idle slowed down the clutch started working again as if it were spinning too fast and taking too long to spin down. as for the popping I moved the timing plate all the way up which retards the timing. moving it up helped a little but I think it's still firing too early, it pops way less than before but still pops nonetheless. I think it's the points, do ya'll think I'm on the right track thinking it's the point gap or should I maybe try fuel cause the carb always has gasoline all over it unless I turn my gas valve 1 3/4 turns open. I have no sediment bowl just a valve for the gas and a rubber fuel line. but anyway I just want to know what ya'll think the cause could be for that. as for oil pressure usually the ol tractor gets up to 22 and it won't go any further than that. now it only has a range from 10 to 17 and it wont go any further. I don't know if it would be the little bit of 20w50 I added to the oil, I usually use 10w30 but added some 20w50 to keep things quiet, which worked but I think the gauge is messed up, Is there a way to test the gauge?

 

[Eman85]

You test the gauge by installing a known good accurate gauge and compare the readings.
I would install a fuel sediment bowl, steel fuel line and check the screen in the carburetor fuel inlet fitting.

 

[Kondoge]

what happens if I don't have another gauge?

 

[Jim.ME]

what happens if I don't have another gauge?

You won't have anything to compare the existing gauge to. Your gauge is mechanical not electric. Be sure you get a gauge with numbers not colored ranges. You only need a gauge that reads 50 - 60 pounds maximum. Some auto parts stores rent some tools, maybe you can rent one, or buy one. You need fittings and hose enough to hook it up as well. Harbor Freight has some test gauges and kits, they may not be what a shop mechanic would use, but likely will met your needs.

 

[Jim in LA]

Amazon has a 0-100 psi test gauge for $17.

 

[Jim in LA]

Amazon has a 0-100 psi test gauge for $17.

Both my 8Ns register 50 psi after complete engine rebuil and oil pump rebuild. I installed brand new dash gauges. After 20 minutes run time, they settle down to 35-40 at about 400 RPM.

 

[JMOR]

I have one that has been running over the last 30 years with pressure (hot) under 15 psi.

 

[Kondoge]

so the slightly low oil pressure is ok?

 

[JMOR]

so the slightly low oil pressure is ok?

sure has been for me

 

[soaked]

Dont remember seeing this posted, ( but it prolly has) so thought it interesting. Its from 9N - 2N Owner's Manual

Would think early 8n with 9/16 pump gears to be similar. Aftermarket tighter springs on the plunger would increase the seating pressure...

 

[Mad Farmer]

You need to remove dIstributor to properly set points /timing.

 

[Kondoge]

I know, it’s just a pain in the knuckles to do that. (Knuckling yourself on the rad fan in the process) oh well that’s tonight’s project is gapping points and trying my new 12v coil again.

 

[Non-farmer]

I've been told that 5 psi is enough for these engines. Mine starts out at 38 and drops to 20 once warmed up. I told my auto parts guy this, and he said there was no need to drop the crank and replace the mains with those numbers when I did my rebuild. He was dead on target, those numbers carried over to post-rebuild.

As for pulling the distributor, add in the fact that my hands are arthritic, especially the left one. That's why I put in Pertronix's higher priced EI. Haven't had to touch the distributor since

 

[Kondoge]

Fair enough. My distributor has the left side hole (when looking from the front) broken. Not enough to let moisture in but enough so the bolt won’t hold it unless I’ve put the right one on first. It’s a real pain especially in that tight area. Thank god I’m still young and flexible.

 

[Kondoge]

as of now I have decided the oil pressure is fine, the timing somehow corrected itself and now the tractor runs like a top and can be ran wide open (full throttle). as of now the only remaining repairs are: new tie rods, and maybe a coat of ford ferguson gray. or maybe I'll paint it white with red rims. anyway thanks to the help of everyone here my 9n has come a long way since october of last year.
the images are in chronological order from October to now

 

[Non-farmer]

FWIW, mine, except for when I'm backing it out of the machine shed or pulling it back in, always runs wide open. Its only job is to mow my lawn. I want those blades turning as fast as possible all the time.