Tools for straightening trailer frame

[timsch]

You need a more serious pulling tool, like 3 ton!! A 12 inch WF series I beam about 12 ft long is your friend. Place it on short horses or blocks/cribbing to hold it at frame height on the right side, parallel with the frame, and about 2 inches away from the fender. use 6X6 wooden blocks to reach to the frame bridging across the bowed section. Use the new comealong, hoist to pull from the center of the bow. chaining from the opposite side across the decking and under as well. (a 8 ton hydraulic jack can also be used to pull it a bit beyond straight so the elasticity is removed when the tension is removed. Jim

I'll have to read this a few times to wrap my mind around it. thanks.

 

[timsch]

If you have a hydraulic cylinder you could use that for a pull tool instead of buying an expensive port a power cylinder, to do this. Then just plug into the tractor. They are cheaper and the diameter of the cylinder can make up for the lower pressure of the tractor. Another words if you have 10,000 PSI port a power and 2000 PSI tractor, a 4or 6 inch cylinder would make up for the pressure difference. And would be easy to connect up to at the pins. Now for the side bow put the ends against a couple trees and push or pull the middle. John is right about the measuring to the center at the hitch point since the floor could be out of square and still pull fine if the axles are in alignment . Most truck shops could check and adjust the axles for you and do a 2 axle alignment for less than you will have invested in all the tooling for this plan. Unless you want to be able to do more of them in the future. Semi trailers have all kinds of ways for adjustment from adjusting the torque rods on the axles to cutting the disc on the suspension loose then moving and welding back up. I had one trailer with an eccentric and cam type deal you loosened it up turned the cam and tighten back up. Another had the washer you cut loose and welded back up and another has the torque rod adjustment. Once the front axle is aligned then you use a pointed rod connected to a telescoping bar to set the back axle to it. With the bar set for one side you check the opposite side for true and then adjust to get them even. Most trailer shops will actually adjust the back axle and set the front to the rear axle. they use a laser with a tag hanging down from the hitch coupler wether it be a fifth wheel pin or gooseneck ball. the beam shows on the flag in front at the hitch from the center of the rear axle. Watching them do this will make you shake your head sort of but it works when they get done. So to have to cut or bend the spring shackles to align the axles would not be a bad way to adjust them. biggest issue might be the slipper they use for the equalizer in between the axles to pivot them on. IF they are not a solid connection to the frame then you would need to have the rear shackles adjusted as previously described.

I really like the separate cylinder connected to the tractor idea. I was happy to buy the hydraulic portapower kit since I see it being useful for a number of other things, but I am looking to get by as frugally as I can without being penny wise pound foolish. Unfortunately, I don't have an extra around. Getting a new one would be close to the Blackhawk recommended above.

My options for fixing this myself will be bending and if that doesn't work, cutting and rewelding. All those others were for more expensive trailers that I've got, as good as they sound.

 

[Scott 730]

My $.02.

1. The "impact" damage to the left upper rail would not transmit enough force to the frame structure to rack it.
2. Given the way in which the A frame at the front is welded into the rest of the frame, you will never rack the frame. The A frame is the diagonal brace for the frame. If the frame was racked after being built there would be tell tale signs of bending in some of the frame components.
3. You say there is 1 1/2" difference in the diagonal measurement of the frame. That translates to having to move the frame 3/4" to get it square. I fail to see how 3/4" difference in a 16' (?) trailer frame would make enough difference that you could visually see the trailer dog tracking.
4. I suggest the trailer was built out of square. If the tires show no abnormal wear, and the trailer is only used occasionally, just use the trailer and save your time and money for something else.
5. Define how much the trailer dog tracks. How far are the trailer tracks offset from the tow vehicle tracks?
6. Maybe I am way off base. In that case disregard everything I said. YMMV.

 

[1948CaseVAI]

Amateurs who twist, heat, and bang on trailer frames are part of the reason I won't follow a sketchy trailer like that on the highway. That thing looks like it should be farm use only.

Along similar line just last night we had a motorcyclist hit with a tire that came off of a jeep on the highway and he may die. I dont' support government inspections and we do not have them in KS, but when people get cavalier with equipment that is gong to be meeting me on the highway at closing speeds over 100 I am tempted to support the concept.

 

[rustred]

This was not a homebuilt trailer, so I'm assuming it was square when new. It was not perfect, judging from the piece welded off-center on the front

View attachment 84863

There is damage to the front corner that someone beat back out which seems it could be the cause of the diamonding.

View attachment 84864

View attachment 84865

i hardly think so. u back into that top bar its not going to bend the frame. the whole trailer would move before u bend that frame. plus the upper pipes are an after add on anyhow. thats not factory.

 

[Keith Molden]

If the tires are not wearing, I would leave it alone and use it since it's not out of line and the frame is out by an inch. That's not much at all. I'll bet 90% of the trailers on the road are out that much and nobody ever fixes them. You can push and pull or cut the cross members all out and reweld everything and it might be out some after you do all of that, so hook to it and load it and don't look back and worry about a little thing like that.

 

[rio4000]

60 years ago i made camper frames in seattle ... hundreds. i like your thoroughness and i'm with lajohn, ... if the measurement from the ball / hitch ctr to the axle / spring mounts is the same or very close left and right, the problem lies elsewhere. perhaps check that the spring mounts have the same spacing on each side. sounds like the 4 wheels are not damaged and each set runs in the same plane so again the frame triangle, hitch to l + r wheels, should run true. the upper trailer body itself might be a different story. an interesting problem.

 

[timsch]

Amateurs who twist, heat, and bang on trailer frames are part of the reason I won't follow a sketchy trailer like that on the highway. That thing looks like it should be farm use only.

Along similar line just last night we had a motorcyclist hit with a tire that came off of a jeep on the highway and he may die. I dont' support government inspections and we do not have them in KS, but when people get cavalier with equipment that is gong to be meeting me on the highway at closing speeds over 100 I am tempted to support the concept.

I don't blame you, and you've got a good point. Even if I were to cut and reweld, it would have been partial cutting of welds to make movement easier, not full cross section cutting. It doesn't look like it's even going to get there at this point.

 

[timsch]

Scott's comment about the A-frame keeping me from racking the frame seemed to be a good point. I went out to check out how far back the A-frame went, and it only went to the 1st cross member, which I guess would be typical. Sure enough, that cross member was bent at the point it was welded to the end of the A-frame. The next cross member back was straight.

The best I can tell, the impact at the left front corner pushed back the side deck angle, bending the cross member, but then buckling the deck angle outward, pulling the cross members and other side deck angle with it about 1" or so.

So, I need to pull the corner forward and push/pull in the bow at the same time....

I know what y'all are saying about not worrying about it, and I agree for the most part. I'm not a perfectionist, but the fact that it tracks to the inside puts it closer to oncoming traffic and that's what's got me going. I don't want to have to think excessively about where my trailer is any more than normal.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

You have the chains. Get a ratcheting chain binder. They can put an immense amount of tension on a chain.

Be aware that the trailer was never perfectly square to begin with. These things are just slapped together as quick as possible, as cheap as possible.

 

[Scott 730]

You have the chains. Get a ratcheting chain binder. They can put an immense amount of tension on a chain.

Be aware that the trailer was never perfectly square to begin with. These things are just slapped together as quick as possible, as cheap as possible.

............... or just back into a tree with the left rear trailer corner. Opposite action from what caused the problem.

 

[Brokengun]

Not to throw cold water on what you are trying to accomplish. But trying to straighten the frame may crack the welds on the Frame.

I dont think the pipe on top is factory. So has the trailer been repaired at some time in its history.

PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO CHECK YOUR WELDS IN THE CORNERS.

 

[timsch]

Not to throw cold water on what you are trying to accomplish. But trying to straighten the frame may crack the welds on the Frame.

I dont think the pipe on top is factory. So has the trailer been repaired at some time in its history.

PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO CHECK YOUR WELDS IN THE CORNERS.

Done deal. The damaged corner already has a cracked weld at the top that I'll be repairing. The bottom looks fine.

The bends I need to get done shouldn't stress too many welds more than they were stressed to get out of shape in the 1st place. Regardless, I'll be redoing welds as needed.

 

[Brokengun]

i'M GLAD YOUR ON TOP OF THINGS. I ONLY SUGGESTED IT BECAUSE; WELL I HAVE DONE MY FAIR SHARE OF CRACKING AND BREAKING WELDS. ITS REALLY A BAD DAY WHEN WELDS BREAK AT THE WRONG TIME.

 

[jniolon]

unless you got this trailer for a VERY VERY good price (like free) I think the conspicuity tape and Jack are worth more than the trailer... Is it going on the road at highway speeds ??? Makes my peepee feel funny. I've pulled worse, but not far and not with a significant load


john

 

[jwal10]

Looks like a Big Tex factory built trailer.

https://dealer-cdn.com/rQQSWq/Gtvtzc/Big_Tex_Trailers_70PI_7_X_16_Tandem_Axle__Utility_Trailer_with_brakes_on_BOTH_axles_and_7K_GVWR_7UY00G.jpg

Looks like it needs a new deck at this point. I would pull the old deck so you can get right in there to measure and fix. I have built a few trailers, and fixed others and it really doesn't take a lot to tweak them back, but tougher to keep them in place. May need a couple X braces to hold it. Doesn't take a big piece of flat welded corner to corner. I think you have it figured out with the front corner damage and the bow in the rail, bent cross member and all....James

 

[timsch]

It wasn't free, but let's say I paid more for the Dayton 10-ton kit for repairing it than the trailer, so close to it. It definitely needs a new deck, but that was a given when I picked it up. I've got alot of the wood for that left over from building my house.

The trailer is pretty sound. It looks like hell, but the steel is in good shape overall, other than a few bends, and the axles & wheels are good (one axle new even). The base is definitely Big Tex factory (no brakes as in the one above, unfortunately. I am thinking of adding them), and the top rail was likely not original, which makes it look junkier than it is. I'll be repairing and reinforcing that as needed The fenders got no love, but they aren't making it unsound. I'll make sure it's completely road-worthy before putting it to use.

If anyone has seen anything in particular in my photos that is a real concern, let me know. If anyone wants pictures of areas not seen yet, I'd be happy to provide them. Thanks everyone for the input and help. Much appreciated.

 

[Watthour]

... May need a couple X braces to hold it.

...Or angled braces from the tongue attachment point to the rear corners.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Just a thought. The trailer had to ran into something solid and knocked it out of square.
Can you see any corner that ran into something?
What if you backed the trailer into a large tree and hit the corner of the trailer with the longest diagonal with the tree?
I would use a tractor so you can start out using a slow speed.
Or pull it into a tree and hit the longest diagonal corner.
What can it hurt trying?
Try using the come along then run it into a tree.

 

[timsch]

Just a thought. The trailer had to ran into something solid and knocked it out of square.
Can you see any corner that ran into something?
What if you backed the trailer into a large tree and hit the corner of the trailer with the longest diagonal with the tree?
I would use a tractor so you can start out using a slow speed.
Or pull it into a tree and hit the longest diagonal corner.
What can it hurt trying?
Try using the come along then run it into a tree.

I don't think it's generally out of square now. Diagonals are off due to damage at the front left corner. See post #29 for my best guess.