Trailer Accessory Attachment - Fast Hitch and 3 pt on 1966 model 706

[FinallyFarming]

As far as I know my 706 uses whats called a "Fast Hitch" setup to attach rear accessories.

Specifically, I want to attach a box blade for leveling uneven ground and smoothing out areas where there were formerly ditches that have been filled in but left very uneven over areas approximately 50 x 50 to slightly larger.

I also want to use it to evenly spread gravel on my driveway that has been dumped by the yard from dump trucks in large piles.

I am finding that Fast Hitch devices are not easy to find so I'm exploring alternatives. Should I convert it to 3 point?
There appears to be no way to raise or lower the hitch so I would basically be dragging anything behind at a set static level whereas I believe a 3 point hitch can raise and lower?
I do not yet know how to attach anything to the tractor.

Thanks guys.

 

[Red Dave]

The tractor in the picture does not have either Fast Hitch or A 3 Point Hitch.

It has only a Drawbar.

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

As far as I know my 706 uses whats called a "Fast Hitch" setup to attach rear accessories.

Specifically, I want to attach a box blade for leveling uneven ground and smoothing out areas where there were formerly ditches that have been filled in but left very uneven over areas approximately 50 x 50 to slightly larger.

I also want to use it to evenly spread gravel on my driveway that has been dumped by the yard from dump trucks in large piles.

I am finding that Fast Hitch devices are not easy to find so I'm exploring alternatives. Should I convert it to 3 point?
There appears to be no way to raise or lower the hitch so I would basically be dragging anything behind at a set static level whereas I believe a 3 point hitch can raise and lower?
I do not yet know how to attach anything to the tractor.

Thanks guys.

View attachment 85246

You'll pretty much need to get a complete parts tractor with either the 3pt or Fast Hitch & transfer the parts to your machine. That's not going to be an easy task, changing everything over, but can be done if you have the gumption.

Mike

 

[FinallyFarming]

You'll pretty much need to get a complete parts tractor with either the 3pt or Fast Hitch & transfer the parts to your machine. That's not going to be an easy task, changing everything over, but can be done if you have the gumption.

Mike

Gumption........check.

The search begins.

 

[FinallyFarming]

Anyone know if the hitch assy from a Super MTA will fit on a 706 Gas 1966 ?

 

[rockcreek4630]

As far as I know my 706 uses whats called a "Fast Hitch" setup to attach rear accessories.

Specifically, I want to attach a box blade for leveling uneven ground and smoothing out areas where there were formerly ditches that have been filled in but left very uneven over areas approximately 50 x 50 to slightly larger.

I also want to use it to evenly spread gravel on my driveway that has been dumped by the yard from dump trucks in large piles.

I am finding that Fast Hitch devices are not easy to find so I'm exploring alternatives. Should I convert it to 3 point?
There appears to be no way to raise or lower the hitch so I would basically be dragging anything behind at a set static level whereas I believe a 3 point hitch can raise and lower?
I do not yet know how to attach anything to the tractor.

Thanks guys.

View attachment 85246

It would be easier to just get a pull type box blade.

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

Anyone know if the hitch assy from a Super MTA will fit on a 706 Gas 1966 ?

Unfortunately, no. You'll have to go 706 to 706. Not sure of the differences between the Farmall & International 706, so I'm not going to say they both work for your situation.... just in case. There are certainly enough parts tractors out there to harvest donor parts from. Tractorhouse lists 49 of them. A bunch are listed there that are available through the parent company of this site, too. Search local auctions, fencerows, scrap yards, etc. Something will turn up somewhere. They made 46,146 of them.

Mike

 

[caterpillar guy]

Would make more sense to just have another tractor for the process. As for the leveling gravel you can spread/level it with your loader on the front just tilt the bucket down and back blade it then when the big pile is spread along the driveway just adjust the angle of the bucket to pull more or less as needed. I've been doing that for decades with ours and the bucket on the Cat. Yes bucket on the Cat it is a NO.6 Traxcavator or as most would know it by a later model a 977. The Traxcavator was only made a couple years and was well received at the time in the early 50's. Never had much use for 3pt implements to much wrestling around to get them hooked up.

 

[used red MN]

Never had much use for 3pt implements to much wrestling around to get them hooked up.

What Cat guy is saying about acquiring a different machine/tractor for draft hitch (3 point) purposes possibly does make the most sense for you. Someone who makes a comment such as above is not really in tune with modern farming operations and the requirement of swapping different implements behind your tractor.
So just FYI, in my opinion you are taking on a huge endeavor for someone who has to ask how to move your loader around to reconnect it to your tractor. In the link you will need to swap out the entire part number 1 (which has no description on that page) with a used unit from a tractor equipped with a 3 point. CNHI Farmall 706 part catalog
You will also be installing a large cross shaft for the draft system in the bottom of the lower differential case that this cover sets on which essentially anchors the front of the bottom 3 point tug arms. I you want, later I can give you the Functional Group and Subsections for the other parts you will need to install. Are you mechanically inclined enough to do this kind of work?
FYI-2, when in a forward motion as most work is completed with a tractor, to utilize the “designed” cleaning action of the angled traction lugs on the rear tires they need to be mounted in reverse of how they are currently. When viewed from the front the angled bars should look like arrows pointing down at the ground, not as viewed from the back as you have them. Need more explanation about that just ask.

 

[Dave O'Brien]

For what it is worth, the simplest solution, would be to find another tractor equipped with a 3-point hitch. The reason I say a 3-point over a Fast-Hitch is the availability of implements and selection of tractor features. It looks like you have a unique piece of equipment there. As many on here have said, "Anything is possible if you're willing to throw enough money at it." But situations vary. There's a lot of great advice available on here, but temper it with what best fits your situation. A pull type box scraper would be a good fit with your machine as it sits though.

 

[bc]

What Cat guy is saying about acquiring a different machine/tractor for draft hitch (3 point) purposes possibly does make the most sense for you. Someone who makes a comment such as above is not really in tune with modern farming operations and the requirement of swapping different implements behind your tractor.
So just FYI, in my opinion you are taking on a huge endeavor for someone who has to ask how to move your loader around to reconnect it to your tractor. In the link you will need to swap out the entire part number 1 (which has no description on that page) with a used unit from a tractor equipped with a 3 point. CNHI Farmall 706 part catalog
You will also be installing a large cross shaft for the draft system in the bottom of the lower differential case that this cover sets on which essentially anchors the front of the bottom 3 point tug arms. I you want, later I can give you the Functional Group and Subsections for the other parts you will need to install. Are you mechanically inclined enough to do this kind of work?
FYI-2, when in a forward motion as most work is completed with a tractor, to utilize the “designed” cleaning action of the angled traction lugs on the rear tires they need to be mounted in reverse of how they are currently. When viewed from the front the angled bars should look like arrows pointing down at the ground, not as viewed from the back as you have them. Need more explanation about that just ask.

Good catch. Swapping the wheels to the opposite side should fix that. Looks like new tires.

 

[Janicholson]

Good catch. Swapping the wheels to the opposite side should fix that. Looks like new tires.

The tires are weather checked/cracked and have flats worn on the center of the bars to 40% of height. Jim

 

[Janicholson]

It would be easier to just get a pull type box blade.

I second this option. a pull type box blade can be very useful and gives a better leveling result than a tractor mounted unit. The modification of the tractor for a 3 point or fast hitch requires $2000.00 in parts and internal hydraulic work in the final drive housing to power and control the hitch. Labor to do it would triple (or more) the $2000. Jim

 

[bc]

The tires are weather checked/cracked and have flats worn on the center of the bars to 40% of height. Jim

Guess I should have expanded the photo. See that now.

 

[FinallyFarming]

Lot's of great advice and it is appreciated.
Thank you all.

The pull behind box blade sounds like a good option in this case.
It's likely that for my intents and purposes, a pull behind box blade and my existing front loader will probably provide all the functionality I need for my limited purposes which will likely include.....

1). Leveling ground that has uneven areas to make it smoother and flatter.
2). Moving dirt around.
3). Moving gravel around and spreading it out evenly on my driveway every few years.
4). picking up and moving equipment and heavy objects on occasion.
5). Filling rain created pot holes occasionally in the dirt road leading to my home.

That's probably 90% of what I will use it for.

Fortunately, I don't need the tractor for complicated or intensive farming tasks as some of you fellas likely do.

 

[FinallyFarming]

What Cat guy is saying about acquiring a different machine/tractor for draft hitch (3 point) purposes possibly does make the most sense for you. Someone who makes a comment such as above is not really in tune with modern farming operations and the requirement of swapping different implements behind your tractor.
So just FYI, in my opinion you are taking on a huge endeavor for someone who has to ask how to move your loader around to reconnect it to your tractor. In the link you will need to swap out the entire part number 1 (which has no description on that page) with a used unit from a tractor equipped with a 3 point. CNHI Farmall 706 part catalog
You will also be installing a large cross shaft for the draft system in the bottom of the lower differential case that this cover sets on which essentially anchors the front of the bottom 3 point tug arms. I you want, later I can give you the Functional Group and Subsections for the other parts you will need to install. Are you mechanically inclined enough to do this kind of work?
FYI-2, when in a forward motion as most work is completed with a tractor, to utilize the “designed” cleaning action of the angled traction lugs on the rear tires they need to be mounted in reverse of how they are currently. When viewed from the front the angled bars should look like arrows pointing down at the ground, not as viewed from the back as you have them. Need more explanation about that just ask.

The rear wheels were like that when I bought it. I do indeed need to come up with a plan to swap them back.
Unless i'm mistake (very possible), I believe I could just take each one off in turn and flip it the other way 180 degrees and put it back on the same side.

 

[FinallyFarming]

Good catch. Swapping the wheels to the opposite side should fix that. Looks like new tires.

I wish. The cracking is extensive, yet the seller said they would likely last a lifetime even cracked like that.

 

[used red MN]

Lot's of great advice and it is appreciated.
Thank you all.

The pull behind box blade sounds like a good option in this case.
It's likely that for my intents and purposes, a pull behind box blade and my existing front loader will probably provide all the functionality I need for my limited purposes which will likely include.....

1). Leveling ground that has uneven areas to make it smoother and flatter.
2). Moving dirt around.
3). Moving gravel around and spreading it out evenly on my driveway every few years.
4). picking up and moving equipment and heavy objects on occasion.
5). Filling rain created pot holes occasionally in the dirt road leading to my home.

That's probably 90% of what I will use it for.

Fortunately, I don't need the tractor for complicated or intensive farming tasks as some of you fellas likely do.

Sounds like you got “de-gumptioned” Best of luck! Doesn’t sound like you will be doing this but if you use it for any extended hard pulling like mold board plowing I would recommend using 92 octane fuel. And it’s going to like to use a lot of it.

 

[FinallyFarming]

Sounds like you got “de-gumptioned” Best of luck! Doesn’t sound like you will be doing this but if you use it for any extended hard pulling like mold board plowing I would recommend using 92 octane fuel. And it’s going to like to use a lot of it.

Meh, I got "schooled". Being new to tractors I didn't even know I could use any attachments without a fast hitch or 3 point system.
Now I'm seeing some folks actually prefer the simplicity of pull behind stuff. I'll probably keep the radar out in case something comes my way as far as the hitch but for now if I can get by with pull behind I'm good with that for now. Box blade is all I need to use behind the rig for now.
That's even questionable. It depends. It might not be able to level uneven ground. I have a set of 5 used tractor tires all bolted and chained together that I can drag around and if that alone can smooth out the uneven areas then I might not even need a box blade. Depends on how hard the top soil is to break up.

I really hope I don't need a moldboard plow. That looks complicated and expensive. It seems that would be used by farmers who need to really turn over the soil pretty deep. Then again I probably need more schooling

 

[caterpillar guy]

They do have trailer plows that you could pull along with disks and drags for leveling out ground. If the ground is not loose or pretty sandy I doubt you will get much done with just dragging some tires behind for leveling. As for the driveway I would look for a pull blade with a ring that rotates the blade sort of like on a grader and there are some old pull graders around for that purpose if you look long and hard enough. there is or was one just recently in an auction I saw. Here in MI if that is not to far away. You will want the angle so you can keep the gravel crowned up a bit in the center so the water will drain off to the sides as you maintain your drive. It doesn't take much an inch is sufficient for the crown.