Well, hoping I did a smart thing

[farmerwannabe]

I listed the 1942 Farmall H with loader in the local paper and the first person who came out bought it this afternoon. We have an Allis B that does a great job with the smaller stuff around the farm, and I"m looking at an Allis WD to replace the H as a baling tractor. I"m sure looking forward to a live PTO. Never had a tractor with one, and I"m looking forward to running the JD 14T baler to see how much easier it will be.
I"m just hoping it will run as well as the H did, or I screwed up big-time. I"m sure I"ll keep you guys posted with plenty of questions about the WD. Comes with a 2-bottom plow, seems to run and look decent. Got it for $800 delivered. Will have it this coming weekend. Wish me luck! I"ll post pictures when it gets here from the local tractor dealer. Bought it from one of their mechanics. Has truck front tires, but that shouldn"t be too hard to change, I don"t think anyway.

 

[WD Tom]

You will like the WD. It has about 8-10 more hp thatn the H. The first thing to do is to change all of the oils. Engine, hydraulic, transmission, and final drives. The final drives are especially important as they are uaually overlooked and the oil in them can be pretty nasty. Get a new boot for the shift lever if it is at all cracked, it keep water from going down the shift lefer into the transmission, another reason to drane the transmission. By the way the transmission has 3 drain plugs which you need to use if you want to fully drain it. Before you do any of this get a reprint of the AC owners and shop or repair manuals. Well worth the money for you to have them, they will answer many questions you didn't even know to ask. But ask here anyway. Good luck with the WD, I have two, one I am working on and one that has been doing well at the antique pulls the last few years, it is stock, from the field too. Oh, if the tires are loaded with calcium chloride watch for any leaks as the CC will destroy a $300 spin out rim in little time. If they look damp, get the tires off and have the rims sandblasted (if there is any rim left to sandblast) and put a few good coats of primer and paint on them and put the tires back on with new tubes. Whether you put the CC back in or use a newer non-corrosive liquid, or just use air, thatis up to you. I won't have CC even though if the tubes are good it is OK.

 

[farmerwannabe]

Thanks for the reply Tom. I will be going on YT"s parts section soon to find a manual and shift boot. If the rears are loaded I will be doing just as you say and refilling them with air only. Thanks again for the reply. 3 drain plugs eh? I"m sure I would have overlooked at least one of them.

 

[BushogPapa]

Be careful taking weight out of the WD.. they are light without extra weight...

My rears are loaded to the top of the rims and the fronts are loaded too..even then, I have to add front weight for plowing and still lift the front some...

Yes, these make fine baleing tractors..!
Ron..

 

[Anonymous-0]

AC-11 is the I&T service manual for the tractor. Operator manual has all the details about controls ID, lubes to use and service intervals, hydraulic
valve settings, etc.

 

[Anonymous-0]

The complaints about CC are so over-rated. Rims do not rust out overnight or in a few months time. Long time neglect, yes. If there is a leak- fix it!. We've used CC ballast for 60 years! Cheapest extra weight source. You wannabe a farmer? Well, full-time farmers have used CC for...decades! Obviously works pretty well.

 

[farmerwannabe]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I"m really looking forward to getting this tractor home. I"ll post some pictures as soon as it gets here this coming weekend.

 

[BushogPapa]

A clean fuel system will make a big difference with these..otherwise they will develop missing and cutting out under load..

It is fairly common for there to be signs of oil under the bell housing from oil seeping from the hydrolic reservoir..should not cause any problem..

Only a NELSON muffler sounds "right" on a WD.
One good source of new, used and special parts is:
Sandy Lake Implement
Sandy Lake, Pa.
724-376-2489

 

[Mr. Bob]

Ditto to your statement. A tractor with air only in rear tires is a deathtrap on hilly terrain if you plan on pulling anything more than an empty wheel barrow. My grandfather and father before me used CC AND wheel weights on their JD "B", AC's WD and D17. I've always had my "N" Ford both loaded with CC and rear wheel weights. Keep valve stems tight and in good condition and CC is no problem.
Mr. Bob

 

[WD Tom]

It is difficult to get all the CC out of a tube unless you have the tube out of the tire and rinse it a frw times with a few gallons of water each time. The WD I am working on has had CC in it, I got rid of most of it, the rims are shakey looking. I will be taking them apart at some point after I get the rest of the tractor done to see how bac they are, nice tires though. I put the valve stem at the bottom and unscrewed it and lit the tire go flat, draining the CC. Had to add air a few times to get it all to come out, and still there is some left at the bottom.

Yes, 3 plugs, one under the differential, one under the transmission in the sheet metal cover plate, and one in the bottom of the PTO, or in the cover plate where the PTO would go if you don't have a PTO. Two filler plugs, one in front and one behind the clutch pedal, take your pick, pour in one, check level in other. The one with the finger twist off cap in front of the transmission plugs in the hydraulic system. Wouldn't hurt to change that too. The drain plug is infront of the PTO. AC used 20w engine oil, hydraulic oil or "tractor lube" a combinaton gear/hydraulic oil is ok. The hydraulic oil also lubes the belt pully if you have one. If you don't it would plug into the hole in the frame rail on the right that goes into the bellhousing, it is about 3 1/2" in dia. I think. Again your manuals will make all this clear.

 

[farmerwannabe]

Thanks again for all the replies and suggestions. As soon as it gets here this weekend I"ll get some pictures posted as well as a little better description of what I find with the WD. I know right from the get-go the wiring is going to need to be replaced. A jumper wire is bypassing the switches completely right now. Going to get a new complete wiring harness and get it fixed right up (I hope!)