Case 580 b(1972)

[Jim.ME]

Insert A is from a service manual, not a parts book. You will have to order by description if you try to use that. In the second post you made in this thread, you posted pictures (the drawing, then the actual parts list) of the parts book pages for the front axle. If you want numbers to use, searching for and ordering parts, you should use the part numbers from those pages of your parts book, not the item key number or the item key numbers from the service manual. For example, the Case part number for the thrust bearing (item key # 8 in the parts list) is A27602. The item key numbers are the index reference to find the part number and name in the written parts list. And you need to use the list that belongs with a given drawing, not a drawing from one book and the item key list from another book, or the item key numbers may not match as you have seen here.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 03/17/2023 at 06:17 am.

 

[used red MN]

To find PART NUMBERS go to the CNHI online parts catalog that Jim posted the link to in the ..Steering section.. sub-section 154. If you are viewing that on a phone I would strongly suggest that you look at it on a PC it works much better. Or at least I will say that is what I found in the case of my iPhone. I used it enough on my phone that I figured out the quirks, but it is still a pain. Use the part numbers they show. And it actually will show you if the part is available through the manufacturer. I do not know how it is with Case parts but on the IH side ..also owned by Fiat.. when you click the part number it may show as ..unavailable.. but down the page a bit on the left is ..Replacements and substitutions.. you click ..view more.. often times for IH parts an available substitute is shown there. You will also find some parts from them as available but shown with a very ..laughable.. price.
A comment on what I see in your picture is that it ..screams severe lack of maintenance.. has been applied to your machine. If this is a backhoe I can only imagine how loose all the cylinders pins etc. must be due to lack of grease. I realize you bought the machine as a work in progress. However, I also understand that if the grease zerk on that spindle became plugged and the time was never taken to investigate why and fix it this could very well be the end result.
As an overall statement I went back and looked at your older post about this machine. It seems you overhauled the engine almost immediately after you acquired it. That must have worked out well and runs fine? It seems you have come a long way from the ..hunt for hayrake.. point!
 

[Hunt4ihhayrakeid]

Done/ new so far:
Engine overhaul
Water pump
Oil pump
Head
Exhaust manifold
Muffler
Radiator
All new fluids and filters
Rewired entire backhoe
Alternator
4 new tires
Front steering is next
(I'd say it's come a long way, and probably more to do)
Picking away at it!

This post was edited by Hunt4ihhayrakeid on 03/18/2023 at 05:13 am.

 

[Hunt4ihhayrakeid]

Does anyone know if the spline connection between the spindle and the steering arm are tapered or pressed fit or do they just slide together? I can't get it to move with just penetrating fluid /sledge,so I'm going to have to try some heat on the steering arm casting in hopes that will swell it a couple thousandths so I can get it apart!
 

[Jim.ME]

It appears tapered from the drawing and pictures on the web.
 

[Hunt4ihhayrakeid]

Has anyone had the steering arm and spindle apart to know whether it is press fit or just loose fit?

This post was edited by Hunt4ihhayrakeid on 03/19/2023 at 04:27 am.

 

[Jim.ME]

When the nut on top of the spindle is tightened to 250 to 300 foot pounds, as shown in the manual, the steering arm is jammed down onto the taper making it act like a press fit. It should not be a free slip on/slip off fit.

Block under the end of the axle, near the spindle so it is solid. Remove the nut and washer. Put the nut back on upside down, flush with the end of the spindle. Have a small piece of 1/2" or thicker plate to set on top of the spindle/nut to protect the end of the spindle. Quickly heat a strip up the arm (don't try to heat the entire arm around the shaft or the shaft will expand as well), strike down on the plate and the spindle should free on the taper.
 

[Hunt4ihhayrakeid]

Ok, already have it blocked solid like you say and borrowed my brother torch so I'll give it a go when we get above 15( probably tomorrow)thanks for tips!
 

[Hunt4ihhayrakeid]

Got spindles out with heat, now to check some measurements
Does anyone have two of these original castle nuts for spindles or know who carries replacement?
 

[Jim.ME]

The parts list, you posted a picture of, tells you the part number 25-1918. It describes it as 1-1/8" fine thread (which is 12 threads per inch). If you use the online parts catalog it tells you the new Case part number for that nut is 86642314. A bolt or industrial supply house should be able to match them. You could contact John Saeli Equipment 315-585-9826, as was suggested in an earlier post here, to get the parts you need. A Case dealer parts department should have them or could get them. Most any equipment dealer may be able to match your old ones.
 

[Hunt4ihhayrakeid]

Ok, can anyone tell me on here what grade 1-1/8" x12 castle nuts these are?( Found some online but not sure of grade?)
 

[Jim.ME]

[Hunt4ihhayrakeid]

Okay got it, does anyone know of any filling material I could use on the spindle to smooth out some small grooves (I've got new bearings and everything else to rebuild it and I've cleaned up the spindles with fine Emery cloth but there are some imperfections I would like to fix if possible)
Or is this something a machine shop could add on and grind them down?
 

[Jim.ME]

I do not think there is anything you can put on them yourself that will hold up to needle bearings running on those areas. As for a machine shop, they could possibly build them up and grind the bearing areas. Getting the proper hardness to hold up to the needle bearings could be an issue. Your best chance of a good answer on what a shop could do is to take the spindles and bearings in hand and go talk to the people at the machine shop(s). Different shops have different capabilities. Be sure to get an estimate and compare the price to the price of new ones.
 

[Hunt4ihhayrakeid]

What do you mean holding up to needle bearings? As long as all the components are new and everything is tight I can't imagine with this not being a high-speed bearing that with how tight the tolerances are that there would be any grinding action on steel that they would machine correct?