9n, small starting problem beginning, I think

[DMartin9N-2N]

Good afternoon: I suspect I have a problem developing in my 9N. When attempting to start, I need to press the starter button down forcibly, several times. This is the type where the starter button is in front of the gearshift, on top of transmission. Is it likely that the push-rod or linkage from the pushbutton to the actual switch is worn? Someone reading this probably knows.... Thanks for any suggestions.
.
D. Martin in W. Tenn.
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[Bruce (VA)]

Happens all the time.

Field expedient fix is to tack weld a nickel to the end of the rod to take up the slack.
75 Tips

 

[Den N Ms]

DMartin9N-2N epoxy or super glue a penny or two,(I'm cheap) to the end of the switch button.To make up for wear in the linkage.
 

[lha]

It is possible that the starter switch under the battery might be going bad. Mine on my '41 9n acted the same as yours and I fixed
it by cleaning the contacts inside. I did have to replace the switch,but I got a couple of years out of it.
 

[Mad Farmer]

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

6V or 12V? It matters as each are wired differently. Incorrect wiring accounts for 99.98% of all non-starting issues. First on your check list is always the condition
of the battery. Take to your ALT/GEN shop and get tested - don't just connect a trickle charger. Specific Gravity can be tested with a Hydrometer. It is like a Texas-
style eye dropper or turkey baster. It contains 5 or 6 colored balls in a sealed solution of Acetone. Auto parts stores usually stock them or used to. Next, Pushbutton
Start Switches can go bad, mechanical failure over use and time followed by electrical failure is common and some fellas have repaired them using added pennies and
such. If'N it was me; I'd just invest in a new switch and replace it if going thru the trouble of pulling old one. However, note that 99.98% of all non-starting issues
are due to incorrect wiring. Verify wiring is correct and connections clean and tight. Use your manual and related documents as your guide - don't guess - don't just
start replacing parts without a true test method. On the 6V/POS GRN 9N system, in the circuit, you must have the 1-Wire/3-Brush 11.5 A Generator and a TENSIONER
BRACKET affixed. Without proper belt tension, you will never charge the battery. OEM 2N GEN had one attached, but if using 12V, you will need the one that comes with
some kits. The 9N GEN also must use the Roundcan Cutout Circuit with the GEN. If using 12V, the GEN and CUTOUT are removed from the circuit altogether. Also, 9N wiring
system uses a 1-Wire Starter Motor and NO RELAY SOLENOID); the OEM Ballast Resistor in both the 6V and 12V setups; and the most misunderstood feature: the front mount
distributor. Tuned up and tested on your bench, then mounted one way only. DON'T ASSUME YOUR FIRST INSTINCT IS A BAD PART AND REPLACE IT UNTIL IT IS WELL TESTED. Know
how each system works.

SPECIFIC GRAVITY TEST:



9N-10505 CUTOUT CIRCUIT:


9N-12250 BALLAST RESISTOR:


9N-10000-C GEN w/BELT TENSIONER KIT:


9N WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR:



9N-12100 DISTRIBUTOR:


DELTRAN BATTERY TENDER JR:


Tim Daley (MI)
 

[DanielW]

Common problem, easy solution. Listen to
Den and Bruce. Starting switch doesn't
quite have enough stroke to make decent
contact. Usually caused from either a) New
starter switch (a lot of new ones don't
have enough stroke), or b) old one/linkage
worn. Do the penny/nickel trick as
mentioned.